So what did you use to convert your f150? And what's going to be the better, cheapest, and easiest option to go with?

 

I didn't do it. Might at some point in the future. I put off the project, in order to tackle reviving dad's 74 F100 which is now back to roadworthy status.

Best, cheapest, and easiest depends soley on what you can find in the way of donor stuff, and what your end goal is. Want an auto trans, find one with TC from whatever you can. Same goes for manual trans. Want an OD trans, now is the time to do it.
My end goal with the F150, is a 5 speed 4wd with 3.50 axles, so I can retain the 9". I personally dislike the 8.8, and will not downgrade (opinion) to one.
I'd prefer a ZF 5 speed, but the M5OD would suffice for my needs. This means I would need to source at least 2 different donors, as a 5 speed trans was never an option during the time a 9" rear axle was.

 

Ok well I have a junkyard full of donors to pull from, it's just my goal is and I don't know to much about the differences of gear ratios and everything, but my main goal is to have a bronco front and rear end only because I've heard they are a lot stronger and more durable when it comes to mudding, I want a manual transmission and of course I will need a transfer case, I want to rebuild the motor into carb which I've already gotten everything I need there. Its just whatever front end I pull off I want to ensure I can take the rear end as well that away I know it will work, and I'm buying pieces here and there based on exspence. And also if it may be easier and we could talk on the phone about all of this my numbers 931-494-6997

 

I'm gonna dump some facts here.

When you choose a transmission cross-member, you're gonna have to get one from a 1980-1986 F150-F350 4x4. If you try and use one from a 1987+, the cross-member gussets will not bolt up to the actual support, or the frame. I'm not entirely sure if a Bronco cross-member will work or not.

Also, the 4x4 trucks have wider rear leaf springs and hangers than the 4x2 trucks. However, you can just use your stock rear axle and springs that originally came with your truck. Just make sure you swap the gears in your rear axle to match the gears in the front axle.

You'll also need to cut the hole in your floor for the transmission/transfer case inspection plate. Measure 6,534 times, cut once.

Don't forget the 4x4 indicator in the dash. It runs from the gauge cluster, through the firewall, down the driver's side frame rail, and into the 4x4 indicator switch on the transfer case. The stock location for the indicator light is at the far right end of the gauge cluster. It's a blue wire with a red stripe, if I recall correctly.

 

Awesome sounds good, and yeah I want the same rear end as the front, the bronco has everything I need to do it, and it's also an 84 bronco so im pretty certain the transmission should switch over hell I pulled the intake off the bronco it runs a 302 as well so it works perfect for the efi to carb switch and got ahold of an edelbrock 600 for a real good deal. So the motors looking up just gotta keep tearing it apart and I have everything soaking in transmission fluid breaking up all the gunk and reprinting everything, just ready to get it all tore apart so I can start rebuilding

 

I don remember reading it, but 4x2 & 4x4 frames are the same width. Also, FYI, bronco frames are about 10" shorter than an F150 shortbed frame. Just kinda throwing it out there, even tho it's not necessarily pertinent.

I'm pretty sure the trans tunnel cover will unbolt from a 4x2 just like a 4x4 will. But cutting a hole doesn't hurt, either. Just easier if you can find one at a junk yard. Also, tcases between Broncos and Fseries are the same, but the rear ds are different. Have fun with the swap!!!

 

The 4x2 and 4x4 frames are the same frame(except for the rear spring hanger width). And they didn't have some "master plan" I have ever heard with the ratios front and rear. So long as they are close. It may be simply a matter of available ratios for certain rearends. 9 inch rears were available in a 3.50 ratio while 8.8's were available in 3.55 or 3.54(I forget which). So long as they are close they will work.

 

If he has an automatic, the floor is all one piece, and the hole needs to be cut.

 

It's a single cab long bed, and I hope it goes well

 

Interesting! Wonder why they did it that way...? Would it be the same for a 3 on the tree?

 

That I'm not sure. I have seen at least one automatic 4x2 truck that actually had a blank inspection cover in it. It didn't have any holes drilled in the cover, but you could still remove the cover like the ones for 4x4 or Manuals. It was definitely weird.

Regardless, drilling the hole isn't too much of a nightmare. However, when Ford stamped the floor panel for the clips that the cover bolts too, they only punched out 3 of the clip impressions for drilling. On the rest of the clip impressions, you have to find and mark the drill location yourself.

 

I don't think Ford got this memo. LOL

My '86 F150 4x2 has the m5od/t-case and crossmember/gussets from the '88 F150 I stripped, all bolted in, Dad's '88 F350 4x2 has a 6.9L/C6/T-case/ crossmember/gussets from an '84 Supercab 4x4 and all that bolted in.

I do know that some crossmembers around 1990 wrapped around to the outside of the frame rail on 4x4 models, I don't know if those will fit the older trucks without drilling.

 

Switching my 84 from auto to M50D (zf coming hopefully soon), that crossmember will not fit without drilling...at least in my experience.

 

I don't remember if mine moved back or not going from the np435 to the M5 but it was bolt in in the 86. My 81 F100 appears to be no different.

 

Ok so for the most part everything will switch over no problems then, the only issues will be cutting the hole in the cab and rear driveshaft?