Just picked up my new FX4 Monday! Its the nicest truck I've been in, really happy with it. But anyways, I didn't get the sony sound system and I have an aftermarket 10" sub with an amp attached. Does anyone have experience in wiring an aftermarket sub/amp to these trucks? Whats the easiest way?

Thanks!

 

subscribing... Congrads on the new truck, good luck with it!

 

I recently got an Fx4 myself, traded in my 2011 F250 which had the nice bass. I was dissapointed, I guess I just assumed the FX with leather would have the same sound. Wrong.

 

I used a Metra BT-5520 harness adapter to install an Alpine 5 channel amp in my '11 FX4. It was extremely easy and best of all; no cutting any of the trucks wiring.
If your setup accepts speaker level input, it might be something for you to consider. Or you could just splice into one of the rear speakers.
If you require rca input, I have no experience with that so I won't try and act like I know what I'm talking about.

 

First of all thanks for the response! I am unfamiliar with the Metra BT-5520 but I researched it some since you recommended it. And btw I am using a Kennwood 200W KSC-WD250 AMP (not very big) already wired to the sub. I do have a few questions though.....
1. Do I correctly see that the four speaker wires coming from my amp can be wired to that harness by splicing?
2. Is the stock headunit the only place the harness plugs into?

Kenwood - KSC-WD250

 

I see that the unit you have accepts speaker level input so the BT5520 will work for you.
As for your questions
1- Yes, you can splice the KSC-WD250's harness into the BT5520 using some quick splice connectors.
2- The 5520 will only plug in between the factory head unit and the trucks stereo harness.

About how to power it, I am not sure. You will likely need to run power directly to the battery. The wiring diagram I was able to pull up looked slightly different than your unit.

Now if you are not worried about splicing into your trucks factory harness, you can skip the 5520 all together and save a few bucks. But it does make things a whole lot easier. I assembled my harness in my workshop and just pulled it through the dash. Saved me from having to solder in the truck or worse; using butt connectors.

Here's a picture of my harness just to give you an idea. The male connector (red face) plugs into the head unit.

The only thing that needs to be done to the harness for it to work is to rip out the 5 wires that go between only the two black connectors and plug the black connectors together. You could get away without pulling the useless wires, but it's so much easier if you do.

 

Thanks for the help I think I will order one of those harnesses. To power my amp I will simply run the power wires to the fuse box under the hood and connect them to a couple different fuses, such as the winshield wiper fuse or whatever. I did this in my other vehicle and it worked great!

One other question...is the headunit easy to get out?

 

On trucks with a bench they are super easy, but those of us with flow through consoles have much more work to do.

These are the videos I studied to take the HU out.
Use this one for moving the flow through console out of the way.
Ford F-150 Lockpick Installation - YouTube
This one for removing the face plate and headunit. All that stuff in the other video is unnecessary to remove.
2010 F-150 Factory Head Unit Removal - YouTube
It can be tricky to get the face plate out from behind the silver trim, but some patience and persistence will pay off. Don't forget about that bolt behind the Sync plate. That one gave me a bit of grief until I re-watched the video