My clutch leaks fluid and every few months I have to add some. If it gets low the clutch slowly goes away but comes right back when I add fluid (Dot 3). Last week it was low and I added fluid, came right back and all was good. The next day my wife drove the truck and experienced very little clutch. I pumped it 20 or so times and it was good enough to drive again. I wanted to give it a better look-see today, and thought I'd bleed it.

I learned that you do not bleed them like brakes! I have no clutch now. I have removed the slave cylinder several times, filled it with fluid, drained the reservoir and more or less followed my Haynes Manual's procedure. I just can't get it to work? The problem arises when I try to push the plunger on the slave cylinder to fit it behind the clutch lever. Fluid goes gushing out the top and I loose my "bleed".

Also I do not have a diaphragm in my fluid reservoir?

Any help would be greatly appreciated................Zorrro

 

I never did have much luck bleeding my clutch. What I always did was replace the parts and lines, then fill the master cylinder. Work the clutck slowly till you get some pedal. Then start the truck and drive it around for a few miles.

The air seems to work it's way out much better driving it than trying to bleed it out.

The diaphram is also the gasket for the lid. This could be where your fluid is going.

 

I'm with you on that. This morning I replaced the slave and master cylinders. I have a diaphragm now! I followed "text book" procedures on how to prep and install the new components. Things seemed ok until; my slave cylinder fell off, as I forgot to slide it on all the way (oops). I stepped on the pedal a few times before I realized what happened. The slave did not blow. Now I have some clutch but not enough to drive very well or get into reverse w/o turning the engine off. I've driven it around some and pumped it several hundred times it's not getting better. I just don't seem to have enough pedal? What else can I try?

Also, the new master cylinder rod won't activate my neutral safety switch, had to jockey that around in order to start the truck.

 

I just drive mine up and down hills shifting gears. I take the rough slow roads, push the clutch in and hold it for a minute before I let it back out. The air will work its way up to the master cylinder.

You need to reset that safety switch when you work on the clutch.

 

Dave,

Time does seem to be helping with the clutch (fingers crossed).

What do you mean reset the switch? Far as I can tell, its position is fixed. A spring-steel "clippy-do" holds the body of the switch in place. There is some small adjustment there (Bending?), but I don't think that’s its purpose. The shouldered end of the plunger does the pushing on the switch. Do I need to split the switch and add shims etc? To make it work for now, I just have it loose and not clipped all the way on. I have read some treads on this subject (as I too have to push my foot through the firewall when starting), but didn't quite get where or how to adjust this..........

 

Zorrro,
If you can get down to look closely at your neutral safety swithch you see it's plastic. At least on an '84 it is! Use you hand to push the clutch pedal down a couple of times. You'll see a "clamp" on the end nearest to the steering wheel. That part rides on some ridges. You can just push the pedal a couple of inches down and use you other hand to move the plastic slide (that rides on the ridges) towards the floorboard. Then, next time you push the clutch to start it will self adjust.

Problem is probably not getting full movement form other causes. Perhaps the bushing in the clutch pedal is worn out. It's a five minute fix. Cost $5 +/-. Or you could have your firewall flexing, or air in lines still!

 

ditch witch,

Thanks, I do not have that slide bushing? It was not on the old plunger shaft and didn't come with the new shaft. The switch is plastic. There are ridges on the old and new plungers, but no sign of a slide or clamp that can be set. Perhaps this is why the clutch has always had to be pushed in so far to make the switch? It is also why I couldn't follow any bodies tread concerning this issue. How do these go on? Do I have to remove the plunger? It was impossible on the old cylinder, broke it apart trying. Looks like I'll have to rig something, heat shrink maybe?


I do have a problem with my clutch bushing warn-out. It's been that way for quite a while. I'll get that up to snuff and see if I get more clutch action. Are you kidding about that being a five min job? I took a look at it once and just assumed the entire pedal assembly had to be removed steering column and all, it was then, I decided just to live with it. I can see how it might help me now. Is Ford is the only place to get that?

 

Zorrro,
Around here (Ks) we have Oreilly Automotive out of Springfield, Mo. They have the bushing in stock, usually. Fo Mo Co is twice the price. There's just a simple clip to remove. Once you get in position to see it----you'll see it's simple!

The plactic adjusting clip is simply two halves of plastic with a tab on one end and a slot on the other end. The two parts are reversed so the clip is facing the slot on both ends. Its then just clipped over the barbed bracket. I'd suggest looking real closely AGAIN at your clutch/starter interlock switch. I bet it's still there. Lay down on you seat from the passanger side with you head hung down by the steering column. Move the clutch pedal and see what moves. Now that you have a better idea of what it is and looks like you might discover it!!!! If it's there, just move the pedal towards the floor and slide the clip towards the floor 1/2" or so. You'll hear a clicking noise as it slides over the ridges

You could make something work if you're creative or pick one up at any salvage yard. I don't know for sure, but probably a feature offered on most ford trucks. Wouldn't have to be a diesel or the exact year.

 

ditch witch,


I do not have an adjusting clip as, 1988 and later use a different assembly for the neutral safety. Mine is really not adjustable. The only way is to make the push-rod go further into the master cylinder (pressing the switch in more) or jerry-rig it a little.

My master cylinder moves out about 1/2" when the clutch is pushed in (Firewall flex?). It is not noticeable from the inside but you can sure see it when you’re under the hood. I picked-up Ford's fix it kit for that. My clutch bushing is good (the easy one that snaps on) the master cylinder came with a new one. I have some new bushings for the entire pedal assembly. These are what look like a bear to replace. Mine are very warn. It takes at least 1" of pedal travel just to suck-up this slack.

Once I get the flex repaired and the bushings in place if I still can't get the clutch to engage enough, there is hope. I can pull apart the linkage that attaches the clutch "axle-rod" to the lever that attaches to the plunger (where the easy bushing goes). The Haynes book says, I can change the angle (and the amount my master cylinder gets pushed in) of that lever. Anybody ever do this? Anybody ever go through all this when changing the hydraulic part of the clutch? Does all this sound right? Confused and truckless..............Zorrro

 

When you get the stiffner plate in and the bushings you'll have a totally different feel. Those small wear points amplify greatly by the time the movement gets to the arm at the throw out bearing.

I did not have to add the stiffner plate. Did ford have it in stock? How much $ ? Let me know how that installation goes, I may have to do that some day!

 

That 1/2" of firewall flex is probably your problem. I did mine a few years ago. I can not remember for sure but I seem to remember it only took about 45 minutes to do. The Ford dealer here had the stiffener in stock, as I recall it was about 20 or 25 dollars.

I also took a mig welder to mine after installing the bolts. Solid as a rock now. You do have to watch when you weld, insulation on both sides of the firewall will burn.

 

I paid $25.00 for the stiff kit and 3 of the 4 bushings that support the clutch pedal assembly (all where in stock, except the one bushing). The stiffener isn't really much, stamped steel metal plate slightly larger than the existing factory one. It does come with some nice directions including a detailed drawing of where the firewall tends to crack. The counter person stressed that the firewall needed to be repaired (welded-up) for the kit to function properly.

I'll let you know, in a few days............Thanks, Zorrro

 

Das all folks!

I have clutch again! I credit most of the fix to the bushings. The bushing nearest the clutch master cylinder was hashed. The aluminum pedal assembly was also ovaled-out. I'm sure those aren't cheap. I filled the oval with a hammered on penny and put in the new bushings. Truck feels new, even seems like it steers better.

I was not impressed with the stiff kit (I found no cracks either). It was too large to fit in anywhere. I either had to cut firewall (not) or trim the new bracket. I trimmed the bracket and by the time I got it to fit, it covered no more area than the factory plate. The only real advantage is that it goes completely around the master cylinder, where the factory plate is 1/2 moon shaped. Time will tell. Thanks guys for all the help. I look forward to not adding fluid in the next few years.

 

When I instlalled a clutch kit I found an information sheet included mentioning all the conserns and fix's found in this forum thread and in addition on that included a Ford part number for an adjustable Clutch Pedal Rod replacement. This rod is ment to replace the input rod to the master cylinder. With this installed it would be easy to keep all slack resulting from bushing wear out of the linkeage. The only problem is that I have yet to install this fine part because of the interference the 7/16" adjusting nut would cause with the Start Prevent switch mounted onto the cylinder input rod.
Has anyone installed this adjustable rod with success and how was the switch problem solved ?
By the way the person with the leaking slave cylinder may have found that when you replace the slave cylinder it comes with a new 'O' ring so the fitting and the cylinder should stop leaking. I had no problem replacing and bleeding mine with the help of an assistant operating the clutch pedal for me.

 

I got an adjustable rod from O'reilly Auto. They have them in stock now, like $9. I installed it and haven't noticed any problem with it. However, my safety switch has been a pain and I've thought about wiring around it. Maybe the nut IS interfering.