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Battery cable sizes

 
  #1  
Old 05-08-2012, 11:48 PM
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Battery cable sizes

Memory fading ...........

Someone please remind me what cable sizes the three cables below are (I seem to recall they are all 8 gauge):

Alternator to passenger battery
Passenger battery connection to drivers battery
Main Ground cable to frame
 
  #2  
Old 01-18-2019, 08:30 PM
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Mark did you ever find an answer for this question somewhere else?
I need to replace a broken terminal on the passenger side and just
don't want to spend the $ on a new one.
 
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Old 01-18-2019, 08:41 PM
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Positives
Alternator to passenger battery - 4 ga
Passenger battery to starter - 2/0 ga
Drivers battery to passenger battery - 2 ga

Negatives
Drivers battery to frame - 1/0 ga
Passenger battery to block & frame - 1/0 ga
Passenger battery to inner fender- 8 ga
 
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Old 01-18-2019, 08:51 PM
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Old 01-18-2019, 08:54 PM
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I don't recall if the early model years are the same as the later ones. I also can't recall where I got the information, but here is what I have documented:

Alternator to Pass Batt – 6 AWG with inline splices to two parallel 2 12ga Fusible Links (C & D). Also a 16 ga wire w/ a 20 ga in-line fusible link (E). This small wire ties into the wiring to the passenger battery AFTER the two 12 ga fusible links.

Driver to Pass Batt Connection – 2 AWG

Ground wire from the passenger battery - it is 0 gauge.
8 ga wire off the passenger neg terminal to the nearby inner fender.

Two 8 gauge wires going to the GPCM. Each with a 12 ga fusible link (F and G). This wiring comes from the passenger battery terminal
 
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Old 01-18-2019, 09:27 PM
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The one that is going to be a PITA for me is the battery to starter.
The terminal and starter cable are still ok I just snapped the interconnect cable off the terminal do to rot.

Oh how I wished people would learn to care for the vehicles. It is not that hard to clean a battery every 12 mo.
I pull mine out ever spring and clean things and use a cleaner neutralizer with indicator when doing this. I also
clean the trays and cable ends. I just hope that DSHS does not start wanting to check on how you treat your
vehicles. I think even more people will be in trouble.

EDIT: Jack that one that says Quick Fusion Solder.
What do you do just hit it with the torch or crimp it?
 
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Old 01-18-2019, 10:09 PM
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It was an easier picture to grab.

That's the debate that we've all been part of, crimp or solder. I've had tons of it from my audio life too, best connection for strength, best connection for conductivity, best connection for corrosion resistance........

That company is most likely my favorite, and they have both crimp and pre-soldered terminals. I'm not sure the debate is what is the best strength or conductance, but what is the best way for the person doing the work to get the best connection. And that's going to depend on what you have. Yep, the fusion terminals are preloaded and you just torch them (carefully) to solder up, preloaded so solder doesn't creep up the cable.

Anyway, that's your problem, attachment. Well, mine too. Those terminals either crimp or soldering should allow you to retain the cables you have. The biggest issue is the 2/0 starter cable and why I selected the big ell. A straight terminal will not work. If it's the truck that will be sold, I'm not sure you want to go through the trouble of removing it, it's not fun.

If it's not a long term truck you just need a reliable connection that's not a PITA to install, preferably with all cables in the truck.
 
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Old 01-18-2019, 10:44 PM
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When I purchased the older truck in 2012 it stranded me in a parking lot out on the over night test drive. Once I had the hood open I knew what the problem was. Someone had cut and replaced the passenger side
positive with one of the crap lead ones and the clamp was loose and covered in fuzz. I happened to be at a hardware store so i went in and picked up a cheap set of tools and a brash brush. Took the cables and
clamp apart and cleaned it all up and reassembled. Sat down in the seat crossed my fingers and turned the key. Vroom back to life. Part of the saled deal had then checking the batteries and replacing that cable.

When I got the new truck to replace that one I thought that the cable looked a little ratty and swapped it out of the one I wrecked. That 90 covering by the bolt plate is a bear if you don't have it in the right direction.
The starter end is also some trouble in that it likes to hang up on everything as your stuffing it in between the oil pan and the frame. If I ever do one again I will wrap the end in tape to make less of an edge to catch on
things. I talked to Scott today and he said a new Ford one is around $160.00 ish plus shipping. I found some on Ebay for about $100. I just don't want to spend the $ if I can avoid it. and I won't be pulling the one out of
the truck I am driving as it is not that old and in good shape.

Here is the broken end. Not a lot of cable there to make a repair to it. Also it did not look like the corrosion had gone very far into the cable.
I will trim it back a bit more to be sure I got all of it removed if cleaning does not do the trick.

 
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Old 01-18-2019, 11:51 PM
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I bought one 2003 and one 2006 positive cable from RockAuto, both Motorcraft so I could compare the differences when I built them. The cables aren't different, the attachments down the motor are. I bought both at around $95 each with the 5% discount, then sent them back.

I agree about trying to salvage the situation and not buy cables. If you can split the crimp, peel it off the cable and clean the wire you might be able to salvage. The long ell is to get from the 2/0 starter cable up to the terminal point. To use a regular terminal you'll have to release the positive cable at the motor bend attachment. Battery to battery cable has just a little more wiggle room. If the starter cable won't cooperate you would need to make up a replacement cable starter to the battery with lugs to use the military terminal, around $40-45.
 
  #10  
Old 01-19-2019, 03:23 AM
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Once I start getting close to the $100 mark I will just go ahead and get the Ebay one.
With the shipping (not free) it will be a bit over $100 and I get to stuff a new cable in
 
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:47 PM
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There are compression terminals you can get too. They're great for a situation like the cable to the starter. No special tools or heat required, just a wrench so you can just fix the cable where it lays.

 
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:50 PM
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But I don’t believe there is enough length to the cable for that, unless you no longer restrain the cable at the block. It would work at the top cable.
 
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Old 01-19-2019, 02:04 PM
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Ok, maybe I am off by a mile here, since Sean and Jack are talking, but here's anyway, I found this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Positive-Ba...e/142081889300

2 feet is under $20
 
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Old 01-19-2019, 04:49 PM
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The length and cable size are different, and you have to combine three cables at one point. You do not want to use a clamping bolt connection as the electrical connection.

If the lower starter section had to be replaced he'd need this. Cheaper if non-marine.

 
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Old 01-19-2019, 05:47 PM
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I will likely be starting it today if noting jumps out at me. I am going to cheat with a set of heavy jumper cables
and just isolate the one end coming from the driver side battery.

If I had the cable slack the nut style would be super. The other option that would really work is finding
the correct clamp and just opening the crimps on the old one. Then all I would have to do is clean the
any corrosion and crimp it back on.
 

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