Rack & Pinion Replacement
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Freshman User
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Rack & Pinion Replacement
Hi Guys & Gals
Its been awhile, but I'm back with a new issue with my wife's Aerobaby. After replacing power steering pump we now have a considerable leack in the rack & pinon.
I have purchased a new one but in looking in my Hanes book and online everyone shows removal of stabilizer bar links with sockets and talk of nuts. But when I got under ours I noticed no nuts on top or bottom of either link.
Are this factory links and do they have to be cut out?
Its been awhile, but I'm back with a new issue with my wife's Aerobaby. After replacing power steering pump we now have a considerable leack in the rack & pinon.
I have purchased a new one but in looking in my Hanes book and online everyone shows removal of stabilizer bar links with sockets and talk of nuts. But when I got under ours I noticed no nuts on top or bottom of either link.
Are this factory links and do they have to be cut out?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 207
From: SoCal
The front stabilizer bar end links use these nuts that are formed out of sheet metal caps. The caps have a hex shape that allow you to put a large wrench on them to turn them, but you will have to hold the link rods steady with either another wrench or vice-grips. There are two nuts on each link, one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
I replaced my rack & pinion in January before selling my Aerostar; I also replaced the links, (all the parts are available at Autozone).
I did notice there was no nut at the bottom of one of the links, it had come lose and fell off, but the other three nuts were in place. When I looked carefully, the link itself had a squared shape, (half round, half squared); I used a small wrench, 8 or 10mm to hold the link while I loosened the nuts, usually the top nut is all that you need to remove, then you pull the link down.
if your links don't have nuts or have the caps as xlt4wd90 explains, and if the link's rubber bushings look worn and tired, replace them, they are cheap. just cut them off with a saw-saw if you need to; you will notice a difference, the van will feel like a new vehicle. I also replaced the outer tie rods and had the van aligned.
I did notice there was no nut at the bottom of one of the links, it had come lose and fell off, but the other three nuts were in place. When I looked carefully, the link itself had a squared shape, (half round, half squared); I used a small wrench, 8 or 10mm to hold the link while I loosened the nuts, usually the top nut is all that you need to remove, then you pull the link down.
if your links don't have nuts or have the caps as xlt4wd90 explains, and if the link's rubber bushings look worn and tired, replace them, they are cheap. just cut them off with a saw-saw if you need to; you will notice a difference, the van will feel like a new vehicle. I also replaced the outer tie rods and had the van aligned.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,432
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Some other pointers, while power steering pump failure and rack and pinion failure are bound to eventually happen, as both systems use rubber seals and moving parts, they usually fail around the same time because they have a common cause, and that cause is contaminated fluid. Now that you have replaced everything, make sure you change the PS fluid every time you service the transmission, every 30,000 miles or so. Easy enough to do as they use the same type of fluid, MerconV. Replac ethe stock down drain with a piece of radiator hose that is secured with a hose clamp. The larger hose won't clog like the stock one, and won't leak at the top when it fills with water, which it won't. This keeps the water from leaking on to the top of the PS cap, which then gets into the fluid, contaminating it. Alternately you can cut a soda can in half and slide it over the top of the PS reservoir, that works well, but isn't as clean looking as replacing the cowl drain.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
curiously all Jaguar from 1972-1992 use a cowl drain gizmo very (very) similar to the Aerostar cowl drain and who knows what other Ford vehicles. Both Ford and Jaguar cowl drain gizmos suck, they easily clog.
my '65 Jaguar uses a 3/4" hose from the cowl drain neatly routed with "J" spring clamps to the bottom of the chassis, draining the water away from everything. Also my '65 Jaguar uses a Ford Power Steering pump which is also used in farm tractors. (those pumps have a filter which can be ordered through tractor-supply houses).
William Lyons, founder of Jaguar Cars Ltd., came to the US every year to shop for parts at Ford, GM, Studebaker, American Motors, and Chrysler from the 1950's to the 1980's. Evidence of this is the 3-speed Studebaker DG250 automatic transmission and the Chrysler Heater valve in my 1965 S type; in my 1984 XJ-6, Lyons used the 3-speed Borg Warner 66 transmission, GM's Charcoal Canister evaporative fuel system, power window motors with American Motors power mirrors, and sunroof motors, all used in 1980's GM cars. And you thought Jaguar was a European car.
my '65 Jaguar uses a 3/4" hose from the cowl drain neatly routed with "J" spring clamps to the bottom of the chassis, draining the water away from everything. Also my '65 Jaguar uses a Ford Power Steering pump which is also used in farm tractors. (those pumps have a filter which can be ordered through tractor-supply houses).
William Lyons, founder of Jaguar Cars Ltd., came to the US every year to shop for parts at Ford, GM, Studebaker, American Motors, and Chrysler from the 1950's to the 1980's. Evidence of this is the 3-speed Studebaker DG250 automatic transmission and the Chrysler Heater valve in my 1965 S type; in my 1984 XJ-6, Lyons used the 3-speed Borg Warner 66 transmission, GM's Charcoal Canister evaporative fuel system, power window motors with American Motors power mirrors, and sunroof motors, all used in 1980's GM cars. And you thought Jaguar was a European car.
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Freshman User
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So much help!
Hey Thanks Guys!
I'm glad I consulted the forum before going ahead. So I will get new links, cover the PS cap with some sort of cover, and it's funny I never thought about the PS Cap being a source for contamination so thanks loads for that tip KhanTiranitor!
I will also take photos of the progress since I couldn't find any videos online regarding the Aerostar AWD 4.0 and this particular job.
I'm glad I consulted the forum before going ahead. So I will get new links, cover the PS cap with some sort of cover, and it's funny I never thought about the PS Cap being a source for contamination so thanks loads for that tip KhanTiranitor!
I will also take photos of the progress since I couldn't find any videos online regarding the Aerostar AWD 4.0 and this particular job.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
also want to put an inline filter in the return line to the PS pump.
removes all the old dirt, crud, rubber hose lining and old seal chunks that break off and plug everything up.
Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form
avail at most online auto tranny parts stores and retail auto parts stores
i run one on the PS and 1 in the ATF tranny cooler line.
they have a bypass valve so you don't have to worry about a plugged filter causing problems
use a high grade synthetic ATF in these Ford pumps, really quiets them down.
I've used Mobil 1 ATF in mine along with Lubeguard Premium.
original PS pump and RP 180k miles, lots of towing and intown turning driving.
my PS filter got hit by a flying rock last fall on a logging road, broke the filter housing wide open. strong armed it home 40 miles with NO ATF lube in the PS system. replaced filter and ATF lube.
quiet as a church mouse, got the only Ford PS pump lubed Ford Tough
.
most of the suckers howl like a dog in heat.
here's a Magnefine out of an auto tranny app.
that's steel crud chunks on the filter magnet.
removes all the old dirt, crud, rubber hose lining and old seal chunks that break off and plug everything up.
Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form
avail at most online auto tranny parts stores and retail auto parts stores
i run one on the PS and 1 in the ATF tranny cooler line.
they have a bypass valve so you don't have to worry about a plugged filter causing problems
use a high grade synthetic ATF in these Ford pumps, really quiets them down.
I've used Mobil 1 ATF in mine along with Lubeguard Premium.
original PS pump and RP 180k miles, lots of towing and intown turning driving.
my PS filter got hit by a flying rock last fall on a logging road, broke the filter housing wide open. strong armed it home 40 miles with NO ATF lube in the PS system. replaced filter and ATF lube.
quiet as a church mouse, got the only Ford PS pump lubed Ford Tough
. most of the suckers howl like a dog in heat.
here's a Magnefine out of an auto tranny app.
that's steel crud chunks on the filter magnet.
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