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Installing ladder bars

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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 05:05 PM
  #46  
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I think you are thinking of the front RSK, which comes in 3" or 5.5"

I have the 3" RSK on the front of mine.

The rear shackle flip is only one size (5.5") IIRC...
 
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ol-blu
Only problem I see is Your leafs are no longer used PROPERLY as suspension... NOT having a pivoting point on the front mount of the ladder-bar.... Your leaf rear suspension has a pivoting shackle on the rear, allowing the axle to move towards the front OR towards the back, depending on the load or weight put onto the rear suspension.... Having a solid mount (Rod end to front mount of ladder-bar) eliminates the natural movement on the leaf-springs.....
I like the setup, but would add my own touch and modify the front mount by adding in a shackle-style mount to allow the ladder bar to move with the axle of the truck, yet still stopping axle wrap...


A ladder cannot allow the pinion angle to change unless a bar bends or the height of the forward mounting point changes. The shackle holds the forward mounting point at a steady height in this example.

Um. May want to rethink that one ... The front mount is a heim (SP) joint .The axle raises & lowers very little . The radius of the movement is miniscule . Forward to back movement would be as well . Wrap will be gone ...
 
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 03:42 AM
  #48  
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Installed the ladder bars finally today...all i can say is WOW! Drives and handles like a different beast. Axle wrap is almost completely gone, and no more wheel hop when getting on it. All the power can go to the wheels now. Reminds me of when i first did my exhaust, it makes me want to get on it all the time! Had a case of perma-grin tonight I'd recommend this kit or a building a set similar to them to anyone with axle wrap/wheel hop issues.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 03:46 AM
  #49  
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Also, after removing the rear stabilizer/equalizer bar thing (it was on the way of the ladder bars) the truck rides much smoother. Just an observation
 
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 09:38 PM
  #50  
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Can you post a photo of what was done. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 12:54 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by nateairman
Can you post a photo of what was done. Thanks
Its dark out but ill take some pics tomorrow. There really isnt a lot to be done. Install took a total of about 30 mins, longest part was drilling the holes. I had to cut the overload perches of the stock blocks, but thats the only real modification needed, the rest of the install was bolt on.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 08:31 AM
  #52  
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I look forward to seeing some photos. I picked up some left over plate from work to make the parts that will replace the block stack and allow the bars to attach.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 10:21 PM
  #53  
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when i did my lift i talk to skyjacker... they said are stock spring was way stronger than the lift springs...i have a 350 block as well as a lift taper block... there are **** that make them inner lock...i was worried bout the stacking of them to.. my kit is a 6 in lift and i pull all kinds of stuff no prob i also have the l&l bars wish they was a little longer...
 
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #54  
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I was under the truck looking at the lift blocks again and I don't like how its looking. there is seperation at the back of the blocks and it looks like they have worn into each other on the front of the blocks. The pinion angle doesn't look all that great either. I am thinking of making a new block that will allow the traction bars to attach to the block and go forward to a shackle in the same distance the center support for the drive shaft.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 07:45 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by nateairman
I am thinking of making a new block that will allow the traction bars to attach to the block and go forward to a shackle in the same distance the center support for the drive shaft.
Bad idea, you need to attach the ladder bar to the axle or below the axle to counter the wrap effect of the leafs. putting it onto the block will still result in wrap.

Diesel Rod
 
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 07:49 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 444dieselrod
Bad idea, you need to attach the ladder bar to the axle or below the axle to counter the wrap effect of the leafs. putting it onto the block will still result in wrap.

Diesel Rod
Not to mention a few broken center pins and probably some u bolts lol
 
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 09:51 PM
  #57  
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Hmm I will post some photos when they are made I have seen a few that have attachments on both sides of the axel and eliminate the block stack. I like how this will clean up all the attachments.

I will try to make a mock up out of something cheap before I pull out the tools.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 03:03 AM
  #58  
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Here are the pictures. Sorry i just remembered i took pics when i was going through my phone lol.



You can see the two u bolts that hold the ladder bars to the axle tube..



Since I removed my stacked blocks and added the add-a-leaf, my pinion angle is darn near perfect.



I was working on replacing my wheel seals....which were leaking, as you can tell from the spots.



 
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