Yes, there still working great. From the last post. It has a screw in tractor pin in the end off the bar, the suspension still works, i dont see how but i loaded my 96 350 dually on a trailer and if squatted, and didnt bend nothing.

 

Ol Blu do you have a photo of the bars with shackle mounts? It seems that the shackle would have to be near vertical or it would move when torque was put on the axel. I am not an expert just want to build and install a set. Is there a desired setup angle and distance?

 

Putting a shackle on the ladder bar would defeat the purpose of the ladder bar. You dont want any forward or backward movement.

 

That is what I was thinking...

The spring shackle will still allow up and down movement, but a shackle on the ladder bar would allow axle wrap.

 

I am not too sure about the lift on this truck. There are two blocks factory plus four and I am worried about the wear that is showing on the diff ujoints. What to do.

 

Stacking blocks is NOT good... The factory block is bad enough, but having more than one is bad.

 

Makes for unhappy driveline parts, thats for sure. I replaced my blocks with add-a-leafs to help reduce axle wrap.

 

When I did my 4x4 conversion I used factory F350 rear blocks. Axle wrap isn't too bad, but I've got an open diff and it'll spin a tire if I even look at it wrong. Especially if the pavement is wet.

 

Well im also a zf-5, so letting the clutch out fast doesnt go well I actually just received my ladder bars (same brand/style). I have to cut the overload perches off the factory blocks to install, other than that theyre ready to go on. Seem very sturdy and well made. Good welds all around and all the hardware is good stuff.

 

So I am planning to fix the problem and could put ladder bars in or pull the blocks and use lift springs.

 

Just putting in leafs doesnt eliminate the issue, but it helps. I still get axle wrap and wheel hop HORRIBLY but the springs did help.

 

I'd start by pulling at least the non-factory blocks out and a smaller lift spring, and then do ladder bars.

If you run no blocks and a big lift spring it'll ride like a tank.

 

I think he meant pulling the lift block and leaving the factory block.

 

Or if he doesn't tow much he could do the Sky Manufacturing rear shackle flip and get rid of the blocks.

 

Thatd actually be the way to go. Do the 3.5 inch, then add a 1' add-a-leaf so it would sit just a tad higher in the rear like it does stock. Good idea