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Need a new fuel pump...

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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 08:43 PM
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Need a new fuel pump...

Hey guys, if the tank in the front gets low, she won't run. When the wacky fuel return from the rear fills the front, she'll start. Most likely a bad pump?

It's the original, so I'm guessing it needs to go. Any reputable brands? I'd go motorcraft, but something like $350 for the pump and sending unit is a but steep. Airtex, Bosch, Carter?

Appreciate the help guys
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 08:49 PM
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Oops, sorry. 94' F350 7.5L 2wd
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:04 PM
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One tank filling the other is most likely the tank selector valve.

Not running when the tank gets low wants me to look at the pickup tube & filter in the tank, not replace the pump. Only get a new pump if you can verify the original is burned out.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
One tank filling the other is most likely the tank selector valve.
Didn't the post 1990 dual tank trucks do away with the manual valve?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitarJesus
Didn't the post 1990 dual tank trucks do away with the manual valve?
Manual valve? As in, you don't flip a switch to change from one tank to the other, everything is done *for* you? That would scare me....

I honestly don't know the answer to that one, my own truck is a 1981 and I flip a switch. In either case, though, there will exist a mechanism of flipping both the source & return lines from one tank to the other, and, even if it's automated, I'd guess it would still be possible for at least part of that valve to stick.

No?
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
Manual valve? As in, you don't flip a switch to change from one tank to the other, everything is done *for* you? That would scare me....

I honestly don't know the answer to that one, my own truck is a 1981 and I flip a switch. In either case, though, there will exist a mechanism of flipping both the source & return lines from one tank to the other, and, even if it's automated, I'd guess it would still be possible for at least part of that valve to stick.

No?
I was under the impression the older trucks had a valve that was hardware based, where the post 90' trucks just used a relay to turn off the pump on the tank not selected.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitarJesus
I was under the impression the older trucks had a valve that was hardware based, where the post 90' trucks just used a relay to turn off the pump on the tank not selected.
There has to be more to it than just turning on power to any particular fuel pump.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
There has to be more to it than just turning on power to any particular fuel pump.
Not necessarily, I think there is simply a regulator later in the line to keep up the fuel pressure for the line not in use
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 12:00 AM
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Lots of threads on this.

No selector valve on your rail. The check valves in your FDM (fuel delivery module) are bad. You need a new front pump. Do not go cheap on a new one. Nothing beats Motorcraft or Bosch.
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 882tank
Lots of threads on this.

No selector valve on your rail. The check valves in your FDM (fuel delivery module) are bad. You need a new front pump. Do not go cheap on a new one. Nothing beats Motorcraft or Bosch.
Thanks Tank. Is FDM considered just the pump, or is that the whole.pump and sending unit package together?
 
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Old May 3, 2012 | 04:50 PM
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Anybody? I know that ford sells the pump, and the connecting tubes together as one unit, versus companies like Spectre selling the tube inputs and then the pump separate. I will most likely go for the Ford unit, but its a hefty price. I see Bosch sells the pump, but I only see the pump itself, not the top input tube and electrical connection. Any help here?

If it matters, I have the 19 gallon steel front tank, and the 18 gallon steel rear tank
 
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