2004 ficm test

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Apr 24, 2012 | 04:32 PM

lude98r

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2004 ficm test

I need help please. Im new to this and have read alot and done some searching but cant figure out how to test my ficm without starting the truck. I cant start the truck. When I ckeck the voltage with the key turned it reads 48.1. Is there a way to determine is my ficm is shot when I cant start the truck? I hope someone can give me some help.

Thanks Rob

Apr 24, 2012 | 05:42 PM

Rusty Axlerod

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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)

Your question is worded in such a way that it's hard to tell whats up, but I'm guessing the truck WON'T start? If you have 48v cranking the FICM is ok at this step in your troubleshooting. If turning the key to start doesn't cause the motor to turn over (crank) you can step away from the FICM and check batteries/cables/solenoid/etc. if you can't start it because you have somthing else taken apart, you'll have to finish that before checking your FICM.

Here's a good no-start checklist from the Tech folder that may help:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html

Good luck and welcome to FTE!

Apr 24, 2012 | 08:56 PM

lude98r

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Thanks Rusty for you advice. I was a little paniced when I wrote my first post. I tried to start the truck and it would turn over but wouldnt fire. When I checked the ficm with key on engine off it was 48.1v and when I turned over the truck (tried to start) it read 48.2v while cranking. I then pressumed that it was not my ficm from what ive read on here it should drop below 45v. I decided it was time to change the batteries now as it they are original. Changed out the batteries turned it over and fired up instantly. Woo Hoo I had a friendm coming over with a scan tool and decided to check it for and error codes. No codes, maybe cause I changed out the batteries? When we checked the readings the ficm with key on engine off was 48v but when we checken the scan tool when running it said 34v.
Sound like I need a new ficm? It starts easy and runs great but the 34v concerns me.
Any advice?
Nervous newbie

Last edited by lude98r; Apr 24, 2012 at 08:58 PM. Reason: added info

Apr 24, 2012 | 09:14 PM

Rusty Axlerod

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Joined: Feb 2011

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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)

Yup, disconnecting the batteries can erase codes. Sounds like you're right on with the FICM also. New hotter batteries could have helped start. 34v is not good. There's a thread in the Tech folder on repairing your FICM if you are skilled at soldering. Also we have a site sponsor (Ed@ficmrepair) who has a great rep around here. Dealership will sell you a new one but with labor and re-flash cost is around $1100.