Hi, all. I'm new to the community as I just bought a 2000 Ranger. I found this site because I was looking for help with it. I bought it at company auction for cheap because it wouldn't start. The battery was dead when I got to it. I put a brand new battery in it since it has 155,000 miles. When you turn the key to the on position, the theft light starts blinking rapidly. It will continue to do so for about 45 seconds if you leave the key on; then it will go out. However, if you turn the key to start, all you hear is relays clicking. The engine doesn't crank at all. I jumped the starter relay and the engine turns over. I have the factory manuals for wiring diagrams and diagnostic procedures. The theft system relies on trouble codes to point you in the right direction for testing. I borrowed an Actron code reader (like you get at Autozone) and it says there are no codes. I'm wondering, though, if it only reads the SAE standard codes from any vehicle and not the manufacturer specific codes like the theft system. I have gone through a few of the diagnostic procedures with a multimeter, but it's like looking for a needle in a haystack without the codes. So far everything I've checked has come back ok. Any thoughts? Any common issues this might be related to?

BTW, I've gotten bits and pieces of info about this truck from the guys who drove it. Apparently, it just wouldn't start one day and was parked for the next several months until I bought it.

Thanks for any help!

Eric

 

i wonder if the key is messed up. it has a pats key right?

Matt

 

i would think too, that the pats key is the culprit, there is an article on this site about pats keys

 

i can't get my browser to paste this in the edit post box


https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ogramming.html

 

Yes, it has a PATS key. When I checked out the truck before buying it, both keys were present. However, after I won the auction and picked up the truck, the other key and fob had gone missing. I tried both of the keys when I checked out the truck and they both did the same thing that it is doing now.

 

It appears in this case that not even the single key that you have works. But even if it did, you'd still need another one that's already been programmed. That's because you must have two working PATS keys before you can do any kind of programming yourself.

As such, your only options are a dealership, or a good locksmith that does a lot of automotive work.

 

Just something else to consider! I have a 99 taurus that had the same problem when i got it. Even the dealer said it was a pats problem. I would tow it to them and it would start for them. Did this 4 times!! I had 2 different keys made, cost a bunch

Finally I did some research on my own and noticed when it would act up the theft light would start flashing but the service engine light would not light at KOEO. I started checking to see why and found the ECM relay to be bad. I replaced it and no more problems.

You could always switch the A/C relay with the ECM relay and give it a try, they should be the same.

This may help if its not a PATS problem.

 

Not meaning to hijack BigE's thread, but is it wise to have a 3rd key made? And if so, can it only be done by the dealer?

 

From what i was told by a hardware store around here, as long as you have 2 key's they can do it. although I think the dealer would be the best bet because of how touchy these pats systems are, and you would be getting a better quality key.

 

If you have 2 good PATS keys YOU can program the 3rd, 4th, etc. yourself. It takes about 15 seconds.


CMOS

 

Yep, that's right. But the 3rd, 4th etc. keys still need to be cut to fit the ignition, which any locksmith can do cheap.

 

Pat, the 3rd key is good to have if you lose one of the other 2. In such case you can still buy another key cheap and have it cut to fit by any locksmith and then program it yourself (since you will always have at least two programmed keys on hand).

 

BigE... Is the key that you are using/trying by-itself (solo) on the keyring? Any other Large metallic or magnetic items on or near the key-ign. can cause a no-start condition.

Also, look in/on under around the steering column to make sure an alarm or other "bypass" device (including valet switches) have not been tampered or added on since or prior to the auction.

You may also want to check (for kicks and giggles) to see if a different key is taped or secured in/near the ignition sw. or column.

 

I had a third key made for my 99 B3000 just in case I lost or damaged one of my original keys. I think it was $30. for the key and cutting and since I had the truck and spare key with me they also programed the new key to insure that it worked. The dealer a couple of years ago said they wanted $80. for the key.

 

When I was working for a dealership in 04 I had a brand new truck do the same thing to me. I had been driving a new Ranger all day moving vehicles from one lot to another when suddenly the truck wouldnt start. I assumed it was the battery but the lights all worked fine and the theft light was blinking. I had to go get the other key out of the office. What had happened was that I had put that key in my pocket with several other PATS keys and scrambled its little chip pretty good. Be careful having a 3rd key made if you go to a hardware store or wal-mart. The cutting machines that they use cans sometimes mess up one of your originals and leave you with only 1 good key or 0 good keys if you just have 1 to begin with. The keys themselves aren't that expensive and you can even get OEM keys on ebay for $10 (thats still a lot for a dang key) but its the dealer fees that get you on the programming. When I bought my 04 they had lost one of the original keys and had to cut me a second for free since all new vehicles are supposed to come with 2 keys.