[resolved]92 won't start
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From: Northern MN
[resolved]92 won't start
So my '92 in my sig won't start. It cranks but won't turn over. Any ideas?
I pulled the hood to test fit a new one I just got and put the old one back on and the next day it wouldn't start. Checked to see if I accidentally bumped something when swapping hoods but didn't notice anything. Truck was running fine before this happened...
I pulled the hood to test fit a new one I just got and put the old one back on and the next day it wouldn't start. Checked to see if I accidentally bumped something when swapping hoods but didn't notice anything. Truck was running fine before this happened...
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
"Crank" and "turn over" are the same thing, I'm guessing you're trying to say the starter motor will crank the engine but it won't start.
A 1992 302 will have electric fuel pumps... When you turn the key from OFF to RUN (IOW turn the ignition on) can you hear the pump(s) prime for a second or two?
A 1992 302 will have electric fuel pumps... When you turn the key from OFF to RUN (IOW turn the ignition on) can you hear the pump(s) prime for a second or two?
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: north carolina
did you re install the ground wire that goes on your hood? also i'm not sure what this is but on your right front fender on the inside of the fender is an electrical cluster and one of the arms for the hood will bump it if you didn't support or move it to the other side which will make some sparks fly.. you may have touched the two together and fried some electrical up.. check your fuses to see if any are bad.. not exactly sure if the ground on the hood is relevant to the motor starting because i think the ground is for something small..
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I would first check the fuses - start with the easy stuff. 
Assuming that's good, I would check for power at the pump; if no power, then trace back and look at the relay and inertia switch.
If the pump has power but isn't operating, it's likely burned out. You can verify this by doing a continuity check across the motor's leads; if no continuity, it's burned out.
This generally requires at least lowering if not dropping the tank(s), though.
I totally forget the colors of the wires that need to be checked at the sending unit... you'll have a hot for the pump, a ground, and one for the sending unit, all combined together in probably a 4-conductor connector (one conductor is unused).
Subford probably has an image of the wiring diagram.
Alternatively, if you can find a wiring diagram, you can look for power at the relay, both incoming source and then to the pump. If no power at the Source side, then keep going back to the inertia switch. If it looks like power is being sent to the pump, you then have some more diagnostic work to do (described above).
Assuming that's good, I would check for power at the pump; if no power, then trace back and look at the relay and inertia switch.
If the pump has power but isn't operating, it's likely burned out. You can verify this by doing a continuity check across the motor's leads; if no continuity, it's burned out.
This generally requires at least lowering if not dropping the tank(s), though.
I totally forget the colors of the wires that need to be checked at the sending unit... you'll have a hot for the pump, a ground, and one for the sending unit, all combined together in probably a 4-conductor connector (one conductor is unused).
Subford probably has an image of the wiring diagram.
Alternatively, if you can find a wiring diagram, you can look for power at the relay, both incoming source and then to the pump. If no power at the Source side, then keep going back to the inertia switch. If it looks like power is being sent to the pump, you then have some more diagnostic work to do (described above).
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From: Northern MN
Thanks a lot guys for the help, found the problem to be the fuel inertia switch located behind the passenger side's kick panel. I must have bumped it when I was trying to fix the dash bracket. Pushed it back in and the truck started right up!
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