Yeah, that isn't exactly just around the corner

 

Is any one able to tell me off the top of their heads what the light is above the stereo? It looks like there is a single warning/notification light of some sort but mine is missing the coloured lens. It has two small globes, one of which in mine is blown



The globe that isn't blown as had the wires cut. I'm not sure at all what they are for. Would it be possibly at all anything to do with dual fuel tanks?

 

Does the wiring for the lamp go to any sort of stock looking plug or loom?

Are the wires just taped/sliced onto other wires?

Checked for voltage on each of the wires with ignition on and flicking any other after market switches like the dual fuel selector?

I know how it feels. Under my dash there is a veritable maze of wiring for alarm, blue tooth box, alarm keypad, phone speaker, window up module, SMS unit. It is a huge time soak sifting through the aftermarket stuff, finding little in-line fuses here and there and not even knowing what they're for, and this is before you look behind the stereo and nav unit.

 

It goes into a flat 3 pin plug. Then directly into the dash harness. It's definitely stock.

Off the top of my head, one of the wire colours changes at the plug. I think it may have been the green wire that changes to a pink/blue.

I should have got a photo of that too, sorry.

The reason I ask is I'm having issues with no petrol working at the moment. The previous owner told me it was something to do with the wiring in the dash. I don't know if that is actually the case but that's where I've started looking.

 

Wonder if Artic Y Block has got one on his truck?
Can you get any voltage to any of the wires trying diff ign settings, engine running, etc. Check all fuses good.
Try using a circuit tester to give 12V to each of the wires, ign off to start with, and see if anything else comes up live. You might be able to determine what circuit it is on.

It's all trial and error. If you have iffy petrol see if there is a sensor there. If you use a circuit tester to feed 12V to the back of the sensor you might have your light come on - then you'll know what it's for. Then you have to figure out if the sensor is stuffed or, if there is no 12v there then keep tracing back.

 

That I can do. I got the PDF workshop manual this week and I was trying to find it somewhere on the 10 pages of wiring diagrams what exactly it was. I ran out of time and honestly got a bit frustrated as I just kept finding a mess of wiring, other issues and question marks. I thought I'd ask if it was more obvious then I was finding.

I'll give that a shot the next chance I can, cheers! I need to get this petrol sorted before I can install the LPG injection. For which I have all the required parts now.

I did find though when I was under the truck, that even though the fuel tank was registering a small level of petrol on the guage, when I tapped on the tank it sounded completely dry. I read somewhere that these fuel pumps burn out quickly? My hearing is very bad, I only have one working ear and it doesn't work that great, but I'm sure I can hear a relay switching on when I turn the ignition to "ON", but I can't hear the fuel pump. Are these a loud pump, should I be able to hear it quite obviously and over a relay click?

 

Can't help there. The only time I did a petrol pump the NRMA guy undid the fuel line from the throttle body and turned the ignition on. Fuel barely dribbled out. That was when we figured the petrol pump had expired and it was a tow home job.

 

I had a quick look at doing just that but didn't see the fuel line connector before I had to close the bonnet. Will be sure to jump onto that too!

 

Hey m8's I just looked on mine and right there is the digital clock and display.

 

Thanks Arctic, I'll get some more photos to see what it is.

I've also discovered that I am only getting 6.7 volts out of the fuel pump relay. I changed relay and still only 6.7 volts out of it. I went under the truck and tested down there too and yes, only 6.7 volts.

I also put 12 volts directly to the fuel pump with a separate battery, but got nothing.

Now I need to find out why only 6.7 volts is coming out, I searched and found a possible fuel tank swtich issue. There seems to be a few results when I google this all for this model truck but can't put my finger on it yet.

 

I've found if I bridge out the relay, and the fuel tank switch, I can get 12Vs to the fuel pump. Fuel pump is still not switching on so I figure it is dead.

From what I can gather the relay is before the tank switch, therefore while ever the relay is putting out 6.7V, nothing along the circuit is going to work.

Question is, why am I getting 6.7V? As I said before, changing the relay didn't matter and seeing as it is before the switch, I don't believe the switch is at fault. Am I wrong?

 

Have you got 12V at the battery?

Check voltage on each of the fuses and see if you have 12v there - if there is a dodgy connection you could get a voltage drop. If you disconnect the pump do you have 12v at the relay. The stuffed pump could be putting a load on the circuit and reducing the voltage.

Check the relay and pump/tank have a good ground/chassis connection.

If all else fails run a new positive wire from the fusebox to your new relay powering your new pump - that has go to give you fuel pressure (once there's fuel in the tank).

At a stab guess I'd say the fuel pump mechanism probably switches off at a factory set pressure. If the pump had no fuel to pump and so never reached the cut off pressure it would run dry until it died. You mentioned before the warning about not letting the tank run dry. But it's dry. If there is 6.7v there and you're running on gas it would imply that the petrol pump had voltage even when running on gas. So the set-up relied on enough fuel being in the tank so the pump would switch itself off via its pressure sensor when the system was switched to gas. This would work fine until there wasn't enough petrol in the tank for the pump to pressure off. The pump would stay on until some petrol went into the tank or its motor burnt out.

If the tank is empty it's probably worth dropping it. It'll probably need cleaning out in any case. Empty tanks accumulate water via condensation. Then you get rust which flakes off and blocks the strainer filter on the pump....

 

Yes, I have a dual battery system and both have >12V

The pump is completely dead, even with a separate battery and a direct power and negative line to the pump itself, it will not spin over.

I do believe I have a good ground at the pump. And down at the pump I still get 6.7V out of the red power wire

Tried this before I confirmed the pump was dead by putting direct power to pump.

What I did do, is bridge the yellow power wire to the brown wire (disconnected in pic) which goes to the dual tank switch on the dash to bypass the relay. This then got 12V to the switch.



From here I bridged the switch from the brown wire at relay, now red at switch, to the blue white wire which goes to pump. At the pump it turns to red where I now had >12V.



This is how I now believe it is not the switch causing the issue. But at the relay.

BUT, I changed the relay to another and still got 6.7V.

The two smaller wires at the relay are what comes from the EEC. The red I believe is a 12V feed, which is there. And the brown/green is the trigger wire. This is also the wire that you bridge out to earth on the self test connector to trigger the relay.

Could I have an EEC fault, a load issue of some sort?

I think you're spot on, the fuel pumped has cooked itself. I will drop the tank out and see if I have another pump I can swap it with. Will suss out the rust situation while I'm at it.

Here is a picture of that plug behind that white globe holder above the stereo that we were discussing before. You can see it is a factory plug that goes directly from here into the dash harness. I'm still not sure what it is but spent too much time looking at the fuel sides of things to look much more into this.



And something else I found quite surprising, just how many gaskets I could get posted from the US for $33.98US! It was going to cost me $45 just for the two intake manifold gaskets at a local auto parts store. And they wonder why our local retailers are struggling, why would you buy locally when you get so much more for your money elsewhere!

 

Isn't that the way, an entire set posted for 25% less. And the retailers are claiming that they're disadvantaged by the 10% GST. So why is there stuff SOOOO much more expensive than just the GST?

I've just ordered the upper and lower ball joints I need from the US. Less than half the Australian dealer price.
That's the trick with these parts. Take your time to order from the US and even with increased fuel usage, they are cheaper than a Toyota Landcruiser to keep on the road!

Last thing. Did you try to disconnect the pump and check the voltage at the relay? Maybe the dead pump has still got an electrical load causing the voltage drop to 6.7.

 

Yep, I had the pump disconnected most of the time. Even with the dual tank switch disconnected it still had the voltage drop. It was only when I bridged the yellow power to bypass the relay was it when I got 12V. I thought then I had it, but it did the same thing with a new relay.

I don't mind waiting a week for my parts to turn up from the US. I live in a rural town so am use to waiting for things anyway.
I also have a 66 and a 69 Mustang, I get everything from the US. I do try and ring around to see if something is more conveniently here in Aus. But IF, and that's a big IF, they do have it in Aus, the prices are not even close just like you said. I feel cheated out of the hour I spend ringing and the costs of the phone calls. I should have just jumped on US ebay to begin with.