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hey guys
just looking for some info...
im wanting to put in head studs and was just wondering how difficult it is? and what the process was?
can i do it with the engine still in? what all has to come off in order to change them out?
thanks for the info
The difficulty would be related to your mechanical ability and the tools you have to do the job. Yes you can replace the studs without removing the motor and it is fairly tight to do which will make things difficult in itself. I don't have a list on what needs to come off but basically everything you see when you look in the engine compartment. I am sure someone will be along to better explain the procedure, also you could try doing a search if you haven't done so already.
you can pull the motor to do it which would be good if you wanted to check the bottom end or build it for a puller. but, its much easier to pull the cab off and do it. ford made them so pulling the cab is a fairly easy job. just takes a lift. you should buy a shop manual of the truck first tho. it will help you through the whole job. i have been trying to find one on amazon or ebay but dont know what good ones are so maybe someone can chime in with recomendations. also, the manuals are around $200 or so, a little less but they are a great help for doing anything as the cover everyting on the truck.
Some of us, installed head studs one at a time with out removing the engine/cab. The idea came from DSMMH about 3 years ago for him, 2 years & 25K for mine with no issues
You can do these in Cab. How easy or hard it is would be on your mechanical skills. Some consider it easy. I don't really think it's too hard, but I have done a few of them. To do in-cab, remove front clip to include - grill, grill suport/lights, trans cooler, condensor, innercooler, cross support, and radiator. Stator and fan, HVAC box on passenger side (this will give you plenty room to remove and install that head), turbo, Degas bottle, FICM, intake, valve covers, Oil rails, injectors, GP harnesses, GP's, Rocker arms and head bolts that go through them, push rods, bridges (NOTE: make sure you keep the pushrods, and valve bridges in order or engine damge can happen), exhaust manifolds, the rest of the head bolts (note: the bottom bolt on the drivers side by the fire wall has to come out with the head), and lift the heads off the block. When installing you can install all the studs on the passenger side before you install head (assuming you did remove the HVAC box), on the drivers side install the back stud in the head before you install it (to torque this stud you will have to either dent the fire wall a little, or try to unbolt trans mount and pull to the drivers side might get you enough clearance to get your torque wrench in there). reverse the rest of the process to install.
Of course I left some of the small componets off that have to come off to get things like the Intake off, but those are pretty obivous ones, and you should be able to tell they have to come off to get whatever part your trying to get off. Above is just a basic rundown of what is need to do this job in cab.
5 years ago I bought my first diesel and wouldnt attempt something like this. But after many hours of research and lurking I gained enough confidence to pull the trigger.
Bacause I have a backup vehicle and love to wrench I did the 1 at a time swap from bolts to studs. There were no HG leaks or issues with the truck prior to the stud upgrade. While I was in there I did a full EGR delete, re-welded 2 new double braided expansion joints into the up-pipe, cleaned the turbo, cleaned the intake manifold, added a collant filter kit and added a 4'' MBRP exhaust.
The motor was not pulled nor the cab but I did have my buddy evacuate the refrigerant from AC system so the HVAC box could be removed (6 bolts behind the glove box if I'm not mistaken).
I pulled everything off the top of the motor but left the radiator and shroud in place. In the process of installing the EGR delete kit and cleaning the intake manifold I had to unbolt the shoud from the intake manifold. With all that stuff removed along with the HVAC box there was a large amount of room on the passenger side. The only problem I had was removing & replacing the drivers side lower rear bolt/stud. I ended up having to unbolt the tranny crossmember and the motor mounts so that I could manipulate the enginge within the bay to gain access to that last bolt/stud.
I'm approaching 10k miles since the install but everything seems to be running well, I have been keeping a very cloe eye on my gauges but so far so good.
The only regret I have is that I did not upgrade the STC fitting while I was in there but plan to tackle that in the next week or so.
I'm no master mechanic by no means now but I learned alot about the motor, its components and how it works while doing this project.
floridahony, thats great news. Big thank you to the people who post good/great idea's on this fourm. You saved some $$$ for future mods by doing them one at a time! I was going to do the stc fitting, then found out my excursion had a 2004 6.0...
Powerstroke100
In my OPINION I would not trust changing to studs one at a time.Sure it can be done but that doesnt mean its right.Again somthings in my opinnion shouldnt be short cutted.I have seen a lot of 6.0s apart at the FORD dealer I work for, even the ones without concerns show signs of gasket failure as small as it mightbe. Theese where taken apart at customers request for studs.
Just because somthing was meant tobe done in a pinch doesnt make it a permanent fix.Its like the dodge neon yeah we slipped head gaskets on them and it worked at the time.Eventualy they all came back for gaskets again.
AGIAN this is just my opinion. Not lookin to start anything with anyone. Its your engine do it the way it makes you happy.
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