I noticed at the RR GTG in Sydney Geoff's truck was being fitted with, amongst a swag of other mods, a regulated fuel return system. (reminder to self: need to buy a new 1/4" drive 10mm socket which got busted trying to remove the rear fuel plug on Geoff's truck).

I understand the idea behind these things is that it allows any air in the system to escape without being shot through the injectors.

Have any of the other Aussie crew got one? If so, any noticeable improvement?

I took my truck on an excellent run over Easter. Canberra to Batemans Bay, then down to Moruya and Tuross Head. Then on to Bega, up the recently re-opened Brown Mountain through Nimatibel to Cooma, then back to Canberra. The truck ran flawlessly, as usual. Pulling strongly to pass when required, pulling 25+ psi on the stock turbo. I was running 3 up with a tray full of tools, not towing anything. I was thinking how good it was and asking myself do I really want to start modding it more.
I had a look at the Riff Raff web site, there's now Customers Riders there. There's some really nice pictures of working trucks, lots of OBS, and trucks in rural scenes. It's like in this day and age, these trucks were built to last, and use.

I'm happy to upgrade around the edges, or when things wear out or break. But if my turbo is blowing 25psi+ and the truck is pulling like a bull in the springtime, why start upgrading stuff which is still working more than just fine?

 

Putting on the FRx will stop air passing through the injectors thereby saving unnecessary wear and tear. The Hutch mod also does this by putting the foamy fuel return away from the fuel pick up line. For engine longevity the next mods that I will be doing will be the Hutch mod with in-line fuel filters added and an FRx.

 

Hutch mod kit arrived from Driven Diesel (link from US Guzzle page).

Hope to fit in on the w/e.

Plan is: the in-tank mods, then fuel line to a 100 micron s/s strainer washable cartridge filter, then through a Facet solid-state lift pump (wired inline with stock pump), then pressured through a Balwin DF1213 40 micron water seperating fuel filter to the stock pump, all plumbed with Gates LOC 3/8" 30R7 fuel line, double clamped at all joints.

Final fuel mod will be the RR FRx - Clay advised there was no benefit doing a fuel bowl delete when running stock injectors.

Will post pics of the instal once it is completed. I can't overrun Saturday as I'm towing horses on Sunday.

 

Well I got the Hutch Mod installed yesterday. 12 hours - draining fuel, removal of the 2 tanks (Long Ranger Extended tanks), fitting up the in tank stuff, re-fitting, removal of press fit hose connectors, double clamping all hose ends. Fitting of an in-line Fuel-Depot 100 micron metal canister strainer.
Refueled the tank with the 40litre that I'd taken out. Power on, I could hear the air-bubbles in the tank as the system purged itself of air. I cycled the key a couple of times until the bubbling stopped.

The strainer was leaking! A trip to my trusty O-ring collection, inserted some extra seals above and below the protruding bolt, re-bolted it up. No leaks!

I didn't have time to fit my Facet lift pump or the Baldwin water seperator. I'll have to leave that for another free weekend sometime. I've also finally ordered an FRx from Clay. I think I'll tackle the lift-pump, water seperator, and FRx together.

Pictures from Guzzle's pages are all the instruction you need to do the job:
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

Final Note: Driven Diesel wanted $175 to express frieght the in-tank mod kit to Oz. I just had them send it to my parcel forwarder in Indianna (VIAddress : The Global Leader in Package Forwarding) and from there Fed-ex'd it to Canberra. That saved my $100 in freight costs.


Just one other observation, 4" exhaust, OCR, 6637 AFe, Superchips tuner on top tune, RR IC boots & plenum inserts, turbo high-flow outlet with EBPV delete, AIH delete, CCV mod, other thAn that, stock. Press the loud pedal, turbo spools up in < 2 secs and now tops out the 30psi boost guage.

 

I did the RR and the hutch mod together. I noticed a big difference in throttle response. Like you mentioned, the RR will stop air going through the injectors. Air WILL cause injector plunger/tip damage over the life of ya truck if air goes through them. So you are half way there. You also have the peace of mind that your injectors are receiving a pre determined amount of fuel pressure. Sounds like you are getting her all tricked up Simon. Good work m8.

 

Hey Simon just reading your post didnt realise that the socket got broken on my truck let me know what I owe you and ill fix it up mate

 

Hey Geoff, should I hit you up for it, or Riff Raff who was on the other end?

No bother really, it would have busted doing the FRx on my truck and then I would be stuck with a busted tool and urgent replacement requred.
I view the breakage as a 'favour' cause I then bought a good quality German made 1/4" drive set which I'll use to do my FRx - hopefully this w/e!

Thanks for your kind offer and all the best up there in sunny Qld!

 

Mmmm. An air trap for diesel lines - I hadn't run into that yet, but I got rid of my OTTO-FUEL burner ages ago (it was on it's last legs)

 

Riff Raff FRx arrived today - not quite in time for the w/e. But I should have a few hours free next weekend to fit it.

 

Nearly completed fitting the FRx today. I dropped one of the double male end fitting which screws into the head fuel port down the front of the motor and can't find it.

Best tool for removing the fuel port square plugs in an 8mm open ended spanner. The FRx valve body was quite a wrestle getting on.

Rear head plug is a cinch after doing the front one. So frustrating not being able to finish & test cause of the lost fitting. I'm thinking it must have jammed right in the RH corner of the radiator shroud, or somewhere similar. Cuss&swear!

Lift pump and water seperator are all fitted now, pics to follow.

 

Lowered a camea into the rad-shroud - no missing nut there, spent hours checking everywhere it may have wedged an swept the garage floor twice looking for the thing. Thankfully Clay at RiffRaff has expressed me over a replacement part for the cost of express postage. Should be able to complete the job and take some photos on Saturday.

 

The more I read the more I like clay!!

 

Simon,

Let me help you out with finding the missing Male fitting, I think. I fitted my FRX today and to dropped the male fitting down the front of the engine. Dam sausages for fingers I have. Just too smaller of a gap to hang on to the thing and thread it. I have to get the misses to thread it in for me. Anyway, as I said I dropped the fitting. I seached for about 10 mins before finding it. CHECK YOUR LEAF SPRING BASE PLATE, WHERE THE U BOLTS COME THROUGH. That is where mine ended up. Its enclosed so it is probably still there. Anyway mine is all done and dusted. Let us know mate.

 

Hi Wallsy, great tip. Looked there will no luck. I purchased small dentists mirror to help look around. Still no luck. I'm sure when I start the truck the bolt will just fall out from its hiding hole.

Express postage means 5 days from Oregon, so I'm expecting the part on Monday.

The fittng at the front of the engine was really tricky. I ended up using a seal-pick to hold the thing at the correct angle and then could only get one finger to rotate it. Once the threads were engaged I could use an 8 mm open ender for just 1/12 of a rotation, then flip the spanner over and continue until tight.
Hopefully the part will arrive tomorrow and I can complete.

So, the truck has been off the road for the week so I took the opportunity to wash the Pete's Cover - secretly used the washing machine. The problem was I turned on the wrong tap on behind the machine and flooded the electrics, now my next job is fixing the washing machine - $175 for a new motor controller to replace the water damaged one. Double Klutz!!

 

Final Post - fuel system completed! Big thanks to Clay for sending over the part I lost. Also thanks to Brian for general advice on how he set his truck up.

Thankfully no leaks after a short test run. The fuel pressure is up about 5psi. I gather the lift pump is more than compensating for the increased restriction of the strainer and water seperator.

I've used the Diesel Site Hutch mod which comes with the BF1212 water seperator and Diesel Site fabricated mounting plate. I found the mounting plate gave a nicely tucked away position to mount my lift pump. You can pick the BF1212 cartridges up from Wagga Tractor for $19.95.

The pics are here if anyone is interested in how it came out:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1077641...FuelSystemMods



BTW, washing machine is also now fixed and working!

Regards,
Simon