I have seen quite a few posts regarding issues with steering shafts; especially from those with couplers by the gearbox. Here are a few pics of what I had done to resolve this issue:

This first photo is through the wheel well. Notice the ujoint by the gearbox... This removed all play from the shaft while allowing for flexibility.



This next photo is a top view; you can see the ujoint yoke has the female splines allowing it to simply slide onto the existing spline shaft out of the gearbox (the first photo shows the bolt which prevents this from inadvertently sliding off the splines-this would be a bad thing it it occured while driving). Towards the top of the photo is the telescope which is also nessessary to accomodate the flexing between the cab and frame; this flexing slightly changes the distance between the steering column and the gearbox. Without the telescope you could really mess your stuff up.



This is the back part of the shaft where it connects to the steering column. The back half was not really modified other than the replacement of the ujoint.



When I got this truck there was an incredible amount of play in the steering primarily due to the coupler. This resolved most of the play although between a shot tie rod end and the power assist control valve there is a bit more I am hoping to eliminate this weekend. I am looking at installing a power steering gearbox which means I will have to get it shortened a bit to accomodate this.

The thing I like the most is the simplicity of the shaft... The only thing which can wear out are the joints and since they are spicers as long a I grease the occassionally this wont happen; if it does any parts store carries the replacements. This shaft is also very strong. I doubt I will ever do anything which will even begin to strain it.

Any reputable driveline shop can likely fabricate something like this for you. Mine cost about $250 out the door but that included the price of the yoke, both ujoints and the telescope which was upwards of $150 of the cost; I should mention these are premium parts. Cheaper ujoints can be used but you get what you pay for.

Anyways we get lots of posts about problems; I thought I would post about a solution. Feedback and questions are welcome.

 

Looks good. Should help solve a lot of steering issues for the guys with 4WD. You're right though. It doesn't pay to go "cheap", especially with steering components. You get what you pay for.

 

I put a similar shaft set up like that into a friends '77 f-250 4x4 High Boy that I converted to the 77.5-79 box. Two problems, one was his outboard headers needed to be clearanced some because it was a much a bigger shaft. Then because of the obvious extra weight of the new shaft, the small bottom steering column bearing in it's plastic retainer wouldn't have been up to the task of supporting all that extra weight of the shaft. I got a bigger bearing to fit the bottom of the steering column shaft and fabricateded a new steel retainer for it and tack welded it in a few places to the bottom of steering column tube. It all worked out good. On my own truck I tryed a Flaming River or maybe it was a Borgeson ? I don't remenber for sure now but I ended up taking it right back off and put a good factory used one back on because I didn't like it. It just felt spooky driving it, like it was made out of rubber is the best way I can describe it. When I run out of good used ones I'll go this route again before buying a aftermarket one, regardless who mfgred it.

 

Mark - I havent really noticed any issues with the steering column... Most of the added weight is down by the gearbox; the upper/back half is not really changed. Any different in weight on the steering column would be insignificant and inconsequential, I hope.

I am still running manifolds so I cant say whether there would be clearance problems or not but it seems there would be no more issues than with the original shaft. Most of the added bulk is down by the power steering pump and clearance there doesnt seem to be a problem either although a power assist line ever so slightly graces its presence; I am sure I could adjust this but its coming out this weekend.

I havent seen one but my analysis of the aftermarket shafts was they cost more, would still need to be cut to fit, and did not seem as strong as this setup. Also if there were any issues with the fit of this, the machine shop offered to correct them as I paid for it... Nothing like good local service.

One of the things I have been really conscience of is buying proprietary components. I can not be certain if the aftermarket shafts present this issue.

 

Glad you didn't waste the money on an aftermarket one. Some people say theirs were fine but I sured didn't like it, enough that I took it off. It probably would have been fine with smaller tires but with big tires it was spooky. I did get my money back. You can't beat Summit's customer service.
I just didn't like the idea of the extra weight on that plastic bearing retainer with the small bearing. It's a little under engineered to begin with. His was worn out anyways so I just went ahead and upgraded it so there would never be a issue with it ever again.

 

I know this is an old thread but a few people have been asking about lower shafts. I have been researching this for some time myself and coming across actual part numbers is damn near impossible. I also don't have any driveline shops around that I know of.

Does anyone know any part numbers for this slip yoke?

Thanks