distributer/starter?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
now if im correct, turnig the distributer clockwise would retard it? problem is im almost turned all the way clockwise and the vac advance is hitting. now do i have to pull the distributer and move it back counter clockwise and reinstall, or can i cheat by moving all the plug wires ahead 1 or 2 places on the cap and then rotate the distributer back counter clockwise until the roter lines up with the number one plug wire again?
I had the same problem, I ran out of room trying to advance it. I just pulled the holddown bolt, lift it up a bit and rotated on tooth on the gear and put it back down. You don't have to pull it all the way out, just enough for it to disengage the drive gear on the cam and then rotate it.
Pull you cap off and verify which way your rotor turns when cranking the motor. Turning the distributor the opposite way will advance it.
You can also rotate all the plug wires, does the same thing...but rotating the distributor should be easier. Either way.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 77
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well, it seems to be working great right now. i set the timing at 10 degrees btdc, and still the starter was grinding. so i took the stater out, got a new one, put that in (number 3), ran a new cable from the solinoid to the starter, and it works like a champ. so im guessing my timing was off and cause damage to the starter so that evn when it was timed right it still made noise? well anyway it fixed for now. thanks for all the help guys.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
Awesome!!! glad you got it licked and glad we could help
Thanks for following up...It's alwasy good to know what the advice given did....even if it didn't work.
That happens sometimes...one thing leads to another and you end up chasing the wrong symptom to the wrong problem.
What did the teeth look like on the starter when you took it out? Look chewed up?
Thanks for following up...It's alwasy good to know what the advice given did....even if it didn't work.
That happens sometimes...one thing leads to another and you end up chasing the wrong symptom to the wrong problem.
What did the teeth look like on the starter when you took it out? Look chewed up?
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Awesome!!! glad you got it licked and glad we could help
Thanks for following up...It's alwasy good to know what the advice given did....even if it didn't work.
That happens sometimes...one thing leads to another and you end up chasing the wrong symptom to the wrong problem.
What did the teeth look like on the starter when you took it out? Look chewed up?
Thanks for following up...It's alwasy good to know what the advice given did....even if it didn't work.
That happens sometimes...one thing leads to another and you end up chasing the wrong symptom to the wrong problem.
What did the teeth look like on the starter when you took it out? Look chewed up?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 983
Likes: 49
From: Northern Kentucky
Could be that the choke adjustment on your new carb. needs just a bit of tweaking. Might want to check the choke pull-off as well as the choke plate adjustment and the the high idle settings.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
10 MIGHT be on the high side. That is where my 460 likes to sit. 8 is too low and it suffers on the low end and 12 is too high, starts pinging up around 3500 or so.
it's not where they say to put it but it's where she likes it best.
It can make it a little harder to start though. On some of later ignitions, it would retard the timing during starting just to make it easier to start. Also helps idle emissions.
Try moving it back a couple degrees and see what that does to your starting and see how the engine responds off idle as well as higher RPMs.
Not sure if that will help or not...but give it a shot. Play around with it a bit. If nothing else, it's all a learning experience....and all for free
it's not where they say to put it but it's where she likes it best.
It can make it a little harder to start though. On some of later ignitions, it would retard the timing during starting just to make it easier to start. Also helps idle emissions.
Try moving it back a couple degrees and see what that does to your starting and see how the engine responds off idle as well as higher RPMs.
Not sure if that will help or not...but give it a shot. Play around with it a bit. If nothing else, it's all a learning experience....and all for free
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
update. seems as though the second starter was the wrong one and chewed up my flywheel causing the new starter teeth to get chewed up too. the auto parts store is going to warrenty the starter(agian) when i get the new flywheel. i found out that i owned a vacuum gauge i didnt know i had. lol. it was under the seat of my old van. set the timing with the vacuum gauge and idle mixture. it runs great . i went from 10 mpg to at least 15. i say at least 15 because now i have an issue where gas is syphoning off from one tank to another. i fill the rear tank, and leave the front with about 1/4 tank. drive it around until i have half a tank or so in the rear and the front shows 3/4. kinda hard to get an exact on the mpg.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
sounds like you may have an issue with your tank selector valve. If you have the 6 port valve, this takes return fuel and directs it to the tank selected for use.
I've never had a dual tank truck but I've read on here several times that over time those valves get worn and old and tend to stick....then you are sucking from one tank and returning to the other.
I've never had a dual tank truck but I've read on here several times that over time those valves get worn and old and tend to stick....then you are sucking from one tank and returning to the other.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
According to the Chilton and Haynes manual, for carburated engines there is just one trnasfer valve. It is either a 3 or 6 port depending on if you have a fuel return system.
3 port=no return (solenoid operated)
6 port=return (motor operated)
Will be down on the rail somewhere between the tank and mechanical pump.
Considering the issue you are having with tranferring from tank to tank, my guess is you would have the 6 port. Follow the fuel line from the pump back and you'll find it.
3 port=no return (solenoid operated)
6 port=return (motor operated)
Will be down on the rail somewhere between the tank and mechanical pump.
Considering the issue you are having with tranferring from tank to tank, my guess is you would have the 6 port. Follow the fuel line from the pump back and you'll find it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 1
From: Dallas, GA
I would recommend you start a new thread with the title of something like tranferring fuel from one tank to the other. That will attract the attention of someone who has more experience then myself to help you out. I guarantee there are many on here that has the exact issue your having and will be able to tell you exactly what the issue is.
find out if you have the 3 or 6 port first and put that in your opening.
Wish I knew more about these and could help you more buddy
find out if you have the 3 or 6 port first and put that in your opening.
Wish I knew more about these and could help you more buddy
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