FPR shimming
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Lead Driver
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FPR shimming
Not a fan, but its a temporary fix to see if it corrects my problem. Anyway, i got the info to performing the task but for cutting the bolt, is it 3/16in from top of bolt to bottom of threads or 3/16in thread length?
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2010
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From: Snohomish, WA
The threads fit in the spring. I have always seen just the head shaved down to create the "shim". 3/16" seems a little big. With the "BB" used it less than that. Figure a BB is .177" and a good portion of it sits in the spring. I would think maybe .120" is all that is being shimmed. with 3/16" (.1875") that is quite a bit more when using a socket head cap screw.
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Lead Driver
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Hey Ken..i dug up a few threads..here, other forums..etc, and all point to the 4/40 hex head cut at 3/16in length. Maybet he B.B. is for the OBS??? Got off the phone with FORD, and this sux, cant buy just the spring...
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From: Jersey Shore Not Seaside!
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2010
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From: Snohomish, WA
No, there is more than one way to skin a cat. The BB can be used like the screw. It isn't "adjustable" like the screw as it is a little hard to shave them.
Either way you do it, the spring gets more tension. Why did you cut yours down?
Clay and Bob can get springs. I would call them up over Ford any day.
Either way you do it, the spring gets more tension. Why did you cut yours down?
Clay and Bob can get springs. I would call them up over Ford any day.
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Lead Driver
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way better link..thanks. What you think about the last pic, taking psi reading from the drain tube? If accurate enough, then with my 1-coil clipped, i dont think i'll see much/if any psi boost....da$#
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Lead Driver
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Ken, i clipped it because, after a year +/-, my pressure starting rising. Got to the point i was uncomfortable with it..80+. So, with the help of the FPR kit being 65 buks, i removed the plunger, wet-sanded the "hard spots", tried psi reading again, was better but not low enough. So, i figured, what the heck. i cut 1-coil and since then, the psi has been great..65/66psi, with little to no drop ay WOT, PLUS the injector noise (thats what i'm say'n it is) was depleted to almost nothing.
Now, i'm at 56/57psi, drops to 52 WOT, and not happy. Performance is great, but the starting of motor is whats bugging me...
Ken, after checking the pic, i think i'm going the B.B. route...thx
Now, i'm at 56/57psi, drops to 52 WOT, and not happy. Performance is great, but the starting of motor is whats bugging me...
Ken, after checking the pic, i think i'm going the B.B. route...thx
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2010
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From: Snohomish, WA
I don't think I would waste my time on using the drain tube. There are two perfectly good ports on the fuel bowl to use. That is what I use and would use. Why monkey with using clamps and such when you can just pull a plug. You can use simply hardware store fittings to thread into it too.
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Lead Driver
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I don't think I would waste my time on using the drain tube. There are two perfectly good ports on the fuel bowl to use. That is what I use and would use. Why monkey with using clamps and such when you can just pull a plug. You can use simply hardware store fittings to thread into it too.
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Lead Driver
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.....After spending over an hour looking for the elusive 4-40 sockethead, i gave up. Came home thinking i could hit a neighbor up for a BB, with no dice there too. So, looking around and just happen to look at my air compressor, and thought, HEY, theres bearings in the couplings. So, went to toolbox where my pneumatics are and broke one open. Removed the FPR, installed bearing with spring(dont forget, my spring is cut by 1-coil), buttoned everything up, turned key on, let g.p.;s cycle, and BAM..fired right off, with a standing 72/73psi...WOOHOO. You guys think thats an acceptable psi or a tad on high side?
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