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It seems like it wouldnt be too hard, is there anyhting i should be aware before i attempt this? thanks for the responses.
Actually, yes. There is a nut that holds down a support for the oil dipstick tube. When you go to remove this nut (it's on a valve cover bolt) sometimes the dipstick tube will start to twist. If it does, stop and get some vice grips or channel locks to hold the bracket still while you break the nut loose. You don't want to ruin your dipstick trying to get the valve cover off.
There's a couple of bolts by the AC that you'll need a swivel to get to, or if it's a 4x4, a wrench from under the wheel well. The back bolt on the driver side is just a pain in the rear. You'll need several cuss words, a very short extension, or a swivel, or some luck to get that one out.
If you get that far, while you're under there go ahead and tighten the lower injector hold down bolts to 120 in lbs (blue) and the rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft lbs (red). Pay attention to the difference in in lbs and ft lbs. You might also consider the 50 cent mod or the shim from Ford while you're at it.
Originally Posted by Дима Ятчук
yes i didn't start in the morning!! no it didn't stall on the road while driving. Friday morning i had problem starting it!!! on a 3rd time finely i started!!! than i came home friday at 6 pm!!! and in the saturday morning it didn't start!!! I have 1 1/2 years old battery they work great!!! when i turn on ignition it shows 12 volt , when i start cranking The voltege drops up to 8 volts while i am cranking!!! i get smoke from tailpipe while cranking. my wait to start light turns on when i turn the key!!! yes i checked all of my fuses. my truck year 99 ford f250 7.3 diesel. No my truck does not bounce while cranking. T he outside temperature is about 50 at night gets 35 !!!
8 volts is too low while cranking. As the others have mentioned, try putting the batteries on a charger. Also clean the cables and grounds to make sure you don't have any corrosion. Does a jump start from another diesel help?
What color is the smoke you're seeing while cranking and how thick is it?
Does the tach bounce (RPM gauge)? You said truck doesn't bounce, but if you're typing from a phone, then who knows what that auto-correct thing does.
Actually, yes. There is a nut that holds down a support for the oil dipstick tube. When you go to remove this nut (it's on a valve cover bolt) sometimes the dipstick tube will start to twist. If it does, stop and get some vice grips or channel locks to hold the bracket still while you break the nut loose. You don't want to ruin your dipstick trying to get the valve cover off.
There's a couple of bolts by the AC that you'll need a swivel to get to, or if it's a 4x4, a wrench from under the wheel well. The back bolt on the driver side is just a pain in the rear. You'll need several cuss words, a very short extension, or a swivel, or some luck to get that one out.
If you get that far, while you're under there go ahead and tighten the lower injector hold down bolts to 120 in lbs (blue) and the rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft lbs (red). Pay attention to the difference in in lbs and ft lbs. You might also consider the 50 cent mod or the shim from Ford while you're at it.
Okay, i am currently away from the truck right now for the next three weeks or so but il definitely be trying this when i get back home. By the way, what is exactly is the 50 cent mod?
i have a problem with my truck, it doesn't start when it seats for 6 hours or more. when i get it started with a started flud, i can start engine any time of the day!!! but when its seats over night i cant started in the morning!! could this be a fuel pressure regulator??? is the problem??
Actually, yes. There is a nut that holds down a support for the oil dipstick tube. When you go to remove this nut (it's on a valve cover bolt) sometimes the dipstick tube will start to twist. If it does, stop and get some vice grips or channel locks to hold the bracket still while you break the nut loose. You don't want to ruin your dipstick trying to get the valve cover off.
There's a couple of bolts by the AC that you'll need a swivel to get to, or if it's a 4x4, a wrench from under the wheel well. The back bolt on the driver side is just a pain in the rear. You'll need several cuss words, a very short extension, or a swivel, or some luck to get that one out.
If you get that far, while you're under there go ahead and tighten the lower injector hold down bolts to 120 in lbs (blue) and the rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft lbs (red). Pay attention to the difference in in lbs and ft lbs. You might also consider the 50 cent mod or the shim from Ford while you're at it.
8 volts is too low while cranking. As the others have mentioned, try putting the batteries on a charger. Also clean the cables and grounds to make sure you don't have any corrosion. Does a jump start from another diesel help?
What color is the smoke you're seeing while cranking and how thick is it?
Does the tach bounce (RPM gauge)? You said truck doesn't bounce, but if you're typing from a phone, then who knows what that auto-correct thing does.
i have a new batteries, ground is good!!! my starter is new sow i dont have a problem with batteries and starter. it cranks whrey well!! my smoke comes grey and its thick!! my truck don't bounce while cranking !!! it cranks normally!! could this be fuel pressure regulator???
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