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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Heater Blower Motor

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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 12:32 PM
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Heater Blower Motor

Finished tearing the dealer installed AC unit out of my 82 f100 and restored the original wiring and switch.

The old fuse was blown so I put a new one in and still nothing. Looking at the wiring diagram, power from the fuse goes directly to the motor and then back through the resistor bank and switch. I pulled the connector at the motor and have 12V there at the Orange and black wire. I put a new switch in already so I started to suspect the motor itself.

I did a resistance check and get infinite reading. If I giggle the stabs, my mulitimeter will flicker like it wants to read someting but goes back to infinite.

Just trying to confirm that it looks like my motor has an open in it with an intermittent connection. Probably has a loose wire(s) within the motor.

Maybe someone who has dealt with this can confirm this or for some odd reason is this how it should be and I need to look at resistors or switch?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 01:01 PM
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I would hook the motor up direct to the battery and see if it works.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 04:46 PM
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yeah thought of that....will make myself a pigtail with some push-on connectors.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 03:44 PM
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Ok...did that and surprisingly it came on...barely!! Turned at about 10 rpm and then came to a stop.

I pulled the motor assembly out, it seems pretty difficult to turn. I would think it should spin pretty easy?

Put a few drops of oil on the shaft and it spins a little better but not much. Connected it to the batter and it turns alright...but she's pulling some amps, I could feel the wire heating up and it arced when I touched the battery post.

Sound like a new one's in order? Or is there a way to get into these and lube up the bearings?

Still surprised it wouldn't come on through the switch. Or maybe it did but so low that I couldn't tell.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 03:47 PM
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I would replace the motor, might take apart the old one afterwards just to see where it failed - bearings? Brushes?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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yeah I think so. I let that oil sink in for a bit and went out and hit it again. Took off and ran pretty good for about 5 seconds....and then just slowed down.

Not sure if it's mechanical or electrical but something's not right....I don't see as how it's real easy to take apart either. Well got about 8 months before I'll need it again
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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You can't get any parts for them that I know of. And get ready, most of them you get at the parts stores are "universal". They don't even make up the plug, because you have to decide the correct way for it to turn and put the wires in yourself. Just make sure it turns the same way as the factory one, and you can look at the diagram that comes with the fan to make sure it is turning the right way and wasn't messed up by a previous owner.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
You can't get any parts for them that I know of. And get ready, most of them you get at the parts stores are "universal". They don't even make up the plug, because you have to decide the correct way for it to turn and put the wires in yourself. Just make sure it turns the same way as the factory one, and you can look at the diagram that comes with the fan to make sure it is turning the right way and wasn't messed up by a previous owner.

I notices that when I was looking at them at various sites. Most of the ones I saw just had 2 wires hanging out, might have the spade connectors on the end of those wires and may not. A couple had a connector but was not built in the housing like the OEM motor is.

I did find a "motorcraft" motor that looks to be an OEM motor...has the same number as in the Master Parts Catalog. It is $80!!!

So trying to decide if I want to roll the dice on a $30 one or go with an original for $80
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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One thing I'm coming to realize....

The OEM parts generally last decades, not so with the aftermarket replacements,

I finally bought a FoMoCo new water pump for my DD Tempo, got tired of the aftermarket things not lasting real long.

Now, to find OEM fuel tank senders, these Spectra Premium things aren't doing well for me....
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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I got one of those $30 blower motors from Oreillys. All new, not rebuilt, made in China. It has the correct plug and works fine. The problem is it is noisy. It wasn't new, but is getting worse already(2-3 months). That and it adds static to the AM radio. Turn it off and static gone, turn it on and it is back.

The noise is not only the static, but a whirring noise also that sounds like bearings. When I first put it in, all you would hear is the air...

Thinking about taking it back on trade for a Motorcraft one.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Stangrcr1
I got one of those $30 blower motors from Oreillys. All new, not rebuilt, made in China. It has the correct plug and works fine. The problem is it is noisy. It wasn't new, but is getting worse already(2-3 months). That and it adds static to the AM radio. Turn it off and static gone, turn it on and it is back.

The noise is not only the static, but a whirring noise also that sounds like bearings. When I first put it in, all you would hear is the air...

Thinking about taking it back on trade for a Motorcraft one.
Well since I won't need it for a while, I plan on saving my pennies (or dollars) and get the real ford one I think. I don't want to pay for a PITA...had plenty of them
 
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