Heck I'll put it in there and figure the rest out as I go. I figured I'd put heavier front springs and somehow put extra weight in the back. My truck barely gets traction when I hammer it and it's a stock 5.8l, an old truck with a 7.5l def won't grab. I'll prolly weld the rear end too.

 

Leave the welder alone and invest in a locker.

 

Being a 4x4 guy, I should agree...but I love welded rear ends on street trucks.

 

I agree with critterf1 unless you are only planning on going in a straight line.

 

I have been surfing the forums for months and finally decided to sign up so I could post my .02... like it really matters right?
Anyway, I am working on a similar project right now. I have a 1950 F1 tore down to the frame rails that is starting to go back together. I am using a BB460 / C6 combo with Jag XJ6 suspension front and rear. From all my measurements the BB will be tight but should fit pretty well.
One major thing to keep in mind is if you will change the front suspension later all the work you do now may need to be changed. The exhaust (headers) may not work, x member mounting points, height in frame, etc.. I would hate to tackle a project such as this just to have to redo it all again when you decide to upgrade steering or suspension. Although it's not nearly as fun in the beginning, if the truck runs, drive it! Work on suspension and brakes then you will have what you need not only to support the weight of that BB, but be able to stop it once moving! Another thing to keep in mind is boxing the frame. It's imperative when going with IFS but I personally wouldn't want to toss a BB in that frame without some better supporting. Bolting or welding in a universal x member wouldn't provide much support in my mind especially if you plan on squeezing any more ponies out. It would probably be okay but I tend to err on the side of caution and some plating can go a long ways.
As for money, I bought a complete 1970 F250 that runs and drives with the 460 for $550. I plan on using the x members, radiator and everything else I can from the F250 for mounting in the F1 frame. With a little trimming and a welder the engine/tranny should slide right in with little extra cost.
Ultimately I am not at the point where I can advise about the definite fitment but hope to be very close after this weekend. I, like you, am very excited about my project and while it is quite ambitious, I hope to do most of the work only once. As I progress I can check back in and let you know how things are fitting. I have been taking pics along the way so I may end up with some that may ultimately help.

 

Hey Lab,
Welcome aboard! No need to be a lurker - you have a good plan.
Why not start up a separate thread showing us your build. I'm always
very interested in another 1950! I'd like to see how your big block
is shoehorned in there - it get's tight up there by the driver's side.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Hey labgraphics, thanks for the help. That's a lot of info haha. I was just looking at cutting corners bc my experience is pretty low with fab and my budget is pretty tight, so I think I'll just have to wait for both of those things to be better for such an ambitious project. I've been thinking I'll just restore it (exterior, interior work) then when I've got the money and maybe some help I can start on the bb. The engine bay is so empty that's why I figured it would be fairly easy but I didn't account for the extra weight.

 

The engine compartment will hand anything including a Hemi, a Cammer, a V10, it's HUGE!
The big problem is getting the power to the pavement even with an unmodified motor. The pickups are very nose heavy to begin with, add the extra weight of a BB just adds to the problem.
You might like welded or spooled rear axles, but they are extremely dangerous on the street, especially in wet slippery weather, and wear tires like crazy. I'd suggest building a safe dependable fun truck first, then later as you gain experience and cash you can build another "dream" vehicle for the strip. Just driving around in a nice clean old truck will create plenty of attention, both desirable and undesirable (police). The street is no place for super high performance. (That's coming from a lifelong racer!)
PS: high performance, cutting corners, and small budgets, are mutually exclusive concepts.

 

Ya, you're probably right. I've decided I want an older truck, so going to try to find something (fat fender) that has an engine/tranny already in it. Then when I get the body and interior where I want it, I'll start saving for bb conversion

 

Chevy, that's a good plan. Take it easy and do what you can. The best part is you can drive it as you go and lessens the possibility of getting burned out which is real important with any project. I'm sure you know that guy who's had that 19xx classic whatever in his yard and or garage for the last umpteen years with little or no progress. How does that happen? BURN OUT!

 

Here's the best tip I can offer you: buy the very best condition complete sheet metal you can find.
It's commonly held but definitely wrong thinking that if you buy something with a lot of rust for a low price you can fix it inexpensively. Body repair is the MOST EXPENSIVE and labor intensive part of a build, engines and drive trains are dirt cheap and easy to come by and simple to install You can put in a new engine transmission and rear axle in a weekend without breaking a sweat. Rust repair, finding all the small trim parts and accessories, or buying reproduction parts is very difficult to find in good condition and expensive when you do. Repairing a rusted out body can take years to do. It's MUCH more cost effective to buy a rust free complete starter no matter what the drivetrain condition is, even if you have to ship it across the country.

 

I can vouch for Ax's advice. I have put together all kinds of projects over the years and the lesson that I learned more than one time is to try to buy stuff that is complete. I've gone through this with Jeeps, trucks, airplanes, and VW's....every time I get one that is apart, that missing box of parts ends up costing big time (whether it's time or money to find replacement parts). If your budget is tight, try to get a project that already drives and isn't missing anything. You can take on smaller projects incrementally that fit your budget and schedule.

Oh....and welcome to the forum for both of you new guys!!

Dan