Replace or Reuse
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: South Carolina
Replace or Reuse
Hey everyone,
I have a question about a frame off restoration. I'm restoring my 78 F250 now and I'm to the point where I'm running the new fuel lines. Up to this point I have replaced just about everything, especially the brake components. I don't want to keep replacing everything through out the build but I also don't want to reuse parts that could be troublesome just down the road. Right now I'm real tempted to order a new fuel selector valve (my truck has dual tanks) but part of me wants to reuse what I have. I got some good advice from CHAOTIC a while back about over spending on the project and I want to make sure I'm hitting a good balance.
What are others doing on frame off restorations? How do you determine when its right to reuse rather than replace something?
I have a question about a frame off restoration. I'm restoring my 78 F250 now and I'm to the point where I'm running the new fuel lines. Up to this point I have replaced just about everything, especially the brake components. I don't want to keep replacing everything through out the build but I also don't want to reuse parts that could be troublesome just down the road. Right now I'm real tempted to order a new fuel selector valve (my truck has dual tanks) but part of me wants to reuse what I have. I got some good advice from CHAOTIC a while back about over spending on the project and I want to make sure I'm hitting a good balance.
What are others doing on frame off restorations? How do you determine when its right to reuse rather than replace something?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Generally, if it has moving parts or it is "timed-out" or of high mileage like bearings, bushings, and seals then replacement is the way to go. A hydraulic brake part should be replaced so you can establish a baseline (and therefore dependability). A fuel selector valve? If it is easily accessible then I would reuse it. If a part is buried (like a heater core) then replacing it would make sense.
Non-moving parts can usually be cleaned up, refinished, and reinstalled. Unless of course it is so corroded that it would be a waste of time to refinish it.
Time vs Money vs Effort.... those are my three considerations.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
I'm not the best one to answer your question.
When I decided to restore the Pumpkin, I wanted to have basically a "new" 1973 F100. So far I'm up to the paint and body work part.
Every part has been either rebuilt or replaced, with NOS parts where possible.
All of the hard lines were replaced with stainless steel from Inline Tube.
When I decided to restore the Pumpkin, I wanted to have basically a "new" 1973 F100. So far I'm up to the paint and body work part.
Every part has been either rebuilt or replaced, with NOS parts where possible.
All of the hard lines were replaced with stainless steel from Inline Tube.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: South Carolina
Out of curiosity why rubber lines?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: South Carolina
Depends on what part I'm dealing with.
Generally, if it has moving parts or it is "timed-out" or of high mileage like bearings, bushings, and seals then replacement is the way to go. A hydraulic brake part should be replaced so you can establish a baseline (and therefore dependability). A fuel selector valve? If it is easily accessible then I would reuse it. If a part is buried (like a heater core) then replacing it would make sense.
Non-moving parts can usually be cleaned up, refinished, and reinstalled. Unless of course it is so corroded that it would be a waste of time to refinish it.
Time vs Money vs Effort.... those are my three considerations.
Generally, if it has moving parts or it is "timed-out" or of high mileage like bearings, bushings, and seals then replacement is the way to go. A hydraulic brake part should be replaced so you can establish a baseline (and therefore dependability). A fuel selector valve? If it is easily accessible then I would reuse it. If a part is buried (like a heater core) then replacing it would make sense.
Non-moving parts can usually be cleaned up, refinished, and reinstalled. Unless of course it is so corroded that it would be a waste of time to refinish it.
Time vs Money vs Effort.... those are my three considerations.
That makes sense HIO Silver and I feel the same way about some of the parts. I was thinking for the fuel selector valve that its an easy piece to get to if something did go wrong and also not really critical assuming I dont run the tanks dry.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 408
Likes: 2
From: South Carolina
I'm not the best one to answer your question.
When I decided to restore the Pumpkin, I wanted to have basically a "new" 1973 F100. So far I'm up to the paint and body work part.
Every part has been either rebuilt or replaced, with NOS parts where possible.
All of the hard lines were replaced with stainless steel from Inline Tube.
When I decided to restore the Pumpkin, I wanted to have basically a "new" 1973 F100. So far I'm up to the paint and body work part.
Every part has been either rebuilt or replaced, with NOS parts where possible.
All of the hard lines were replaced with stainless steel from Inline Tube.
Thats a good looking build mikeo0o0o0! Can't wait to be that far along.
I also went with Inline SS tubes and was very pleased with them. They had pre-bent lines for all but a few fuel lines and the vapor lines. It sucks bending the ones missing manually. I need to look into NOS parts because I dont really know much about them.
Thanks for the advice!
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Thanks! I was fortunate with Inline Tube, They had all of my lines except the PCV line and the fuel pump to carb line. The engine doesn't have a stock intake or carb. I bent the lines out of regular mild steel tubing and am going to use Inline's custom duplication service to reproduce them in stainless.
NOS (new/old stock) parts, if you need any parts and want to use genuine Ford parts and can't find them, let me know and I can try to locate them for you.
NOS (new/old stock) parts, if you need any parts and want to use genuine Ford parts and can't find them, let me know and I can try to locate them for you.
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For me, when it came to lines, I went with new. I used forced air to blow out what I could. However, I never really felt secure that I got all the debris out of the line. (Before my build, the truck sat for 5 years)
Anyway, I used rubber fuel line. It was cheap and easy to run along the frame rail. Of course, you want to make sure the line diameter is big enough to flow sufficient fuel for your needs. For brake lines, I bent my own, then used steel braided to the calipers. Make sure if you lift your truck, you allow for enough steel braided line to flex when wheeling.
For the selector valve, just power it up. You should be able to tell if it's opening and closing correctly. I reused the same one on my build with no problem. If it fails on the road, you might even be able to just switch lines at the valve and start drawing from the other tank. I'd save your money for other parts.
Anyway, I used rubber fuel line. It was cheap and easy to run along the frame rail. Of course, you want to make sure the line diameter is big enough to flow sufficient fuel for your needs. For brake lines, I bent my own, then used steel braided to the calipers. Make sure if you lift your truck, you allow for enough steel braided line to flex when wheeling.
For the selector valve, just power it up. You should be able to tell if it's opening and closing correctly. I reused the same one on my build with no problem. If it fails on the road, you might even be able to just switch lines at the valve and start drawing from the other tank. I'd save your money for other parts.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
My 77 had dual tanks and I bought a manual valve from MSC Direct and drilled four 1/4" holes in the floor to mount it and just used the switch on the dash for gauge to gauge flipping. My crew cab will get the same thing. If I remember right the valve was 40 bucks and it should never fail but stranger things have happened
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 703
Likes: 6
From: Butler Pa.
The problem with rubber hose is prone to collapse inside, swell with oil, dry rot,the cracks will cause it to suck air. Remember it is suggested you change your 2'' hose on each side of your fuel filter when you change it as it will be dry rotted from heat. Hose just will not hold up. Steel will last longer. Use too much hose in the engine bay area and you will get vapor lock, it also holds heat more than steel.
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