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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:13 PM
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Starter problem

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Had a charging problem but now resolved . Problem now is If I drive my truck for 15 minutes it starts fine. Drive for 40 minutes or so and it cranks slow and will not start. Let it sit for an hour and it starts right up. Had starter checked 2 weeks ago on truck and it tested fine. I did have a couple times were all it did was click but turn key again and it starts fine. Is the starter going out it is less than a year old. Should I bring it into auto parts store agan and have it tested. Anything else to look at? Charging system still works good. Hate to get another starter if it won't fix the problem. Thanks.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 04:11 AM
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Fishing here, have you recently changed to or do you have an alum. intake with 4 barrel?




John
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 07:57 AM
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[quote=jowilker;11580967]Fishing here, have you recently changed to or do you have an alum. intake with 4 barrel?

No nothing like that but I have been having electrical issues. First my ignition pigtail went bad, intermitt problem so I had almost everthing check from alt to start before solving. Then I had an alt. charging problem, I think the extended field terminal on alt. was the cause but that is fixed. After that problem was solved I started having the starter issue. Oh I did put an msd blaster 2 coil and pertronix ignition but I don't think that could cause the problem.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 08:49 AM
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Check the connections on the battery cables, both positive and negative, at every attachment point. These need to be clean and tight.
The most usual causes of no/slow cranking when the engine is fully up to temp, but cranks fine after cooling off, are: weak connections on 1 or more battery cable(s), ignition timing a bit too advanced, and starter drawing too many amps when hot. I didn't list these in any particular order, since any 1, or combo of more than 1, could be the reason for your issue.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Check the connections on the battery cables, both positive and negative, at every attachment point. These need to be clean and tight.
The most usual causes of no/slow cranking when the engine is fully up to temp, but cranks fine after cooling off, are: weak connections on 1 or more battery cable(s), ignition timing a bit too advanced, and starter drawing too many amps when hot. I didn't list these in any particular order, since any 1, or combo of more than 1, could be the reason for your issue.
Just checked all the connections to make sure and all good. Timing might be an issue I just checked and have it set at 12 degrees but still runs a little rough. I do have a fairly new dist. on it. I was wondering if the curve on the dist. might be off. I really don't know much about the curve other than what I have read off the forum. May be I need to check the slot and see if it is in the wrong slot? Not really a mechanic but can usually figure things out if given good info. Any help with the dist./timing would be helpful, thanks.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 70-360fe
Just checked all the connections to make sure and all good. Timing might be an issue I just checked and have it set at 12 degrees but still runs a little rough. I do have a fairly new dist. on it. I was wondering if the curve on the dist. might be off. I really don't know much about the curve other than what I have read off the forum. May be I need to check the slot and see if it is in the wrong slot? Not really a mechanic but can usually figure things out if given good info. Any help with the dist./timing would be helpful, thanks.

the slot wouldn't matter here- that only comes into play when the distributor is spinning fast enough for the mechanical advance to kick in.

the initial timing *would* matter here. normally i'd say 12btdc wouldn't be enough to cause hot-start problems- but back it down to 10 and see.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rustywheel68
the slot wouldn't matter here- that only comes into play when the distributor is spinning fast enough for the mechanical advance to kick in.

the initial timing *would* matter here. normally i'd say 12btdc wouldn't be enough to cause hot-start problems- but back it down to 10 and see.
Ok I will try that if it doesn't do it I think i"ll just replace the starter. I'm running out of ideas. I replaced the starter relay this morning with an old one in good shap but no difference. Any suggestions on a new starter this my second in just over 2 years, bottomline re man. from autozone.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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starter

if you have long tube headers,this could be your problem as they heat up the starter.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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I think the best suggestion is not to get a cheap reman. Maybe take your starter to an automotive electrical shop and have it rebuilt. There is one local to me that does excellent work, they are cheaper than an Autobone rebuild and use better parts.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 08:57 PM
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also- if you're running headers, you may want to wrap your starter in a heat blanket.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by sandmanf250
if you have long tube headers,this could be your problem as they heat up the starter.
Did have but took them off. I read where other members had problems with starter so I took them off, did not want to get stuck somewhere without a starter. Strange thing did not have problem when on now starts fine for short drive over 40 minutes cranks slow, cools down and then starts perfect. Maybe the headers damaged the starter when on but problem did not start for a couple weeks later. Don't know why starter would heat up after they were off.

I will have to look for a rebuilt shop thanks for the idea. I know it will depend on shop but what was your turn around time?
 
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