Ok. Here is what I've got. It might get a bit long but please stay with me.

At work i recently inherited a 2002 or 03 PSD Reg Cab 4x4 Chassis with a service body from another location. They claimed that if you shut it off it might not restart. I didn't have much of a problem until about a week ago. Granted it is the service truck so it is not drove a lot but still. It died and did not want to restart opened hood looked around, shut the hood, and it fired. Fast forward to this am. No start period. Cranks like crazy but it still doesn't start.

I decided to try a CPS but unfortunately the nearest ford dealer to where I'm at is over 50 miles away so i went with one from the local Car Quest (grey in color). It didn't make a difference, but I do know that I am now for sure getting a tach reading when cranking. The oil pressure gauge reads pressure. The electric lift pump does not come on with the key. I have jumpered it from the battery and made it run but still have not been able to start it.

Onto other things I've picked up from searching a bit this afternoon. There is a good bit of old oil that can be seen on top of the heads and the air intake and cooler runners. Not totally sure where it is coming from, I need to clean it up to know for sure.

I need to check the oil level in the HPOP (I don't think this is the problem but will double check now that I know how to). Also if I can figure out where the ICP is I should be able to unplug it and if it is that the engine should fire, correct? Anything else that you guys could recommend? I don't have access to a code reader as all of mine and my friends are for Chevy's (on a side note are there any that will read both Chevy's and Ford diesels).

Thanks, Brian.

 

This is helpful for locations and descriptions



Do you get a WTS(Wait to Start) light? On an 02/03 it is a Coil wire IIRC

 

Yes, I get the WTS light. So I am assuming the PCM is still ok, and I am looking at an electrical shut off reasoning for the fuel kill. Because there is no unburnt fuel coming from the exhaust during cranking.

 

There is a crash sensor above the passenger's side kick plate that will kill the pump too.

 

Basic requirements to start a 7.3 are
~10.5Volts while cranking
ICP(Injector Control Pressure) of 500PSI
RPM signal usually at least 100RPM
Fuel Pressure

 

Crash sensor has been checked. Have had the charger hooked up and it spins like crazy. Haven't tested the voltage during cranking but I will to rule that out.

 

Ok. The plug for the hpop is strpped out so I want to buy a new one before I get started with an easy out.

I verified that there is 11v while cranking.

Tried starting with the icp unplugged to no avail. Did notice at the beginning of this fight that it was already unplugged, if that makes a difference.

The electric lift pump cycles with the key on.

I know that there are codes but unless my Diablo Predator for an 04 Chevy will pull them for this truck, I am sol. Unless I buy a code reader. And I don't have any idea about which ones will do what I want. Fords and Chevys both gas and diesels. If anyone knows of any that won't break the bank, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks, Brian

 

If I didn't have a way to view data, I knew I had fuel, good voltage, and unplugging the ICP didn't work, I personally would pull the IPR and clean it at least.

As for code readers, really you want more IMO. You will see AE(Auto Enginuity) Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity: Ford Enhanced Bundle mentioned frequently, and although I do not have it, I highly recommend it, if you have a laptop, for the price and what it is capable of. if you got the Ford enhanced bundle it will view live data from the PCM, and it will work as a standard OBDII reader on other vehicles.

Maybe someone near you could pull some info/codes for you.

 

The IPR is what I am leaning towards. When I open that sediment/water drain with the key on I can hear fuel blast out. So it has to be somewhere in the injector section. I am looking at the ipr now and am trying to figure out how to get it out. Looks like it just unscrews but man there is a lot of stuff in the way. I don't know how to get in there with a wrench.

Thanks for you help.

Brian

 

Check the wiring harness on the drivers side valve cover. The wires tend to lay on the valve cover and chafe through. This can cause issues as those wires are your control wires for the engine, both input and output. It is pretty common to have that cause issues like you state.

 

I figured out how to pull that sensor off. I was trying to make it more difficult than it was. Are there any ohm values on what it should read? It wasn't open so there is a connection in there.

I looked around but have not seen any wires that look like they could be shorting across or to ground.

I did take and unhook the battery cables and let the truck sit for about an hour. When I came back I no longer have a check engine light. Even after several attempts at starting. It also goes with out saying that it didn't start.

Thanks, Brian

 

Sensor? The IPR(Injection Pressure Regulator)? If so this might help



As for ohm values, I'm not sure, seems like I remember around 10 Ohms on the coil.

 

I was hoping that just the solenoid was bad. That is what I was referring to as the sensor. But I am guessing that since it doesn't read open it is OK. Looks like I will be tearing it down to look for oring or other issues. I hope the parts store has a plug for me tomorrow, so that I can fill the hpop back up.

I just keep thinking (wishing) that is is something stupid or overlooked on my part causing this. You know the whole keep it simple stupid philosophy. But i've done the easy stuff like make sure oil on the dipstick is in the cross hatches etc. Then combine that with the history i have on it, I'm pretty sure there is something wrong somewhere. I know it spent a lot of time at a shop getting looked at for this no start when warm. From things that I am seeing as I look closer here the more sure I am that nothing else will go back there. They ham and egged that lift pump like you wouldn't believe. It runs but don't go to Ford for parts.

I really appreciate the help, Brian

 

My 97 was the CPS Cam Position sensor. Just 1 idea.