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IIRC, the booklet that came with my torque wrench told me that would make the reading inaccurate.
that little booklet is wrong
We use the Joint Fleet Maintenance Manual for all of our Submarine Safe Work (I am stationed on my 3rd Submarine here in Pearl Harbor). Been putting together, and then torquing joints that quite litterally can mean the difference between life and death for >10 yrs. Torque is a funny thing.
There is also a ton of great info in there on joint make-up and general assembly. I suggest you guys check it out. Almost everything in that manual is very useful IMO. A bad o-ring caused the Challenger failure...it's the little things you have to pay attention to!
Is there a way to get our hands on the factory book?
you can purchase the "book"...or paper version for $100-200
or
you can buy the OEM Ford repair DVD's for about $5-25. I get them off eBay. I've bought them for all of my Fords. To date have a 2005/2006, 2007/2008, 2009/2010. They come with all Wiring Diagrams, HVAC, and all procedures and diagnostics. Even has the TSB's that were available at time of release.
very good tool. I've got a few paper manuals and they are easier to use at the jobsite, but the DVD's really cut down on the clutter. And they're great to print so you don't mess up your nice book.
you can purchase the "book"...or paper version for $100-200
or
you can buy the OEM Ford repair DVD's for about $5-25. I get them off eBay. I've bought them for all of my Fords. To date have a 2005/2006, 2007/2008, 2009/2010. They come with all Wiring Diagrams, HVAC, and all procedures and diagnostics. Even has the TSB's that were available at time of release.
very good tool. I've got a few paper manuals and they are easier to use at the jobsite, but the DVD's really cut down on the clutter. And they're great to print so you don't mess up your nice book.
Actually, THe proper torque for ARP head studs is 210 not 240+
If it takes under 2 hrs to remove the cab why would one even think trying to do the job without cab removal? Install the cab in under a hour . . . Thats with it being rolled out of the way.
If it takes under 2 hrs to remove the cab why would one even think trying to do the job without cab removal? Install the cab in under a hour . . . Thats with it being rolled out of the way.
...when you have no way of getting the cab up. Not everyone has a 2-post lift or some sort of ceiling hoist.
Actually, THe proper torque for ARP head studs is 210 not 240+
If it takes under 2 hrs to remove the cab why would one even think trying to do the job without cab removal? Install the cab in under a hour . . . Thats with it being rolled out of the way.
because it takes 3 hours to remove the heads with the cab on.
also if you worked on as many bucket trucks and meat wagons as I do you would get it.
Studs won't help with mileage, when i first did the studs/ egr delete and an innovate tune. I was up to 18 mpg on a freeway trip to branson mo, very light right foot!~
Studs won't help with mileage, when i first did the studs/ egr delete and an innovate tune. I was up to 18 mpg on a freeway trip to branson mo, very light right foot!~
Well I knew it wouldn't help mileage, I was just wondering if there might be some reason that all the people that have had it done at this shop went from high teens or 20mpg or so down to low teens. They're getting worse mileage unloaded after studs than they were with a loaded trailer before studs.
Since studs couldn't possibily make a difference in the fuel mileage, (they don't weigh that much more than the bolts) something else must have happened, like a reflash, or different heads, or something egr related. Can't see it being the studs.