Studs with cab on?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Anderson, SC
Studs with cab on?
Friend of mine is doing a lot of upgrades while he's got his engine torn down to replace the oil cooler. Stuff like EGR delete and studs. He wasn't going to do them but then I think he talked hisself into it after he got it torn all the way down to the valve covers.
Question is this...they're doing the job in a garage that has no way of lifting the cab, so it will be done with the cab on. Does anyone have any suggestions or techniques that I can pass on to him to make it as easy as possible? Anything special be is going to need or going to need to do. He's doing the job with his brother, and they're both machinists and very mechanically inclined. So the skill is there, just lacking the knowledge base. That's where you guys come in. Thanks in advance.
Question is this...they're doing the job in a garage that has no way of lifting the cab, so it will be done with the cab on. Does anyone have any suggestions or techniques that I can pass on to him to make it as easy as possible? Anything special be is going to need or going to need to do. He's doing the job with his brother, and they're both machinists and very mechanically inclined. So the skill is there, just lacking the knowledge base. That's where you guys come in. Thanks in advance.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Bloomington, IL
The dealer that put new heads and studs on my Excursion removed the front bumper/core support/grill/headlights/radiator and did the work that way.
They told me it was the quickest way to get the work done
They told me it was the quickest way to get the work done
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
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Remove the HVAC box....ahhh.....that made my life much easier doing my studs.
Also, have a GOOD torque wrench..a lot of people break them going that tight.
Have someone help you put the heads back down onto the motor...that gets tricky.
Also, have a GOOD torque wrench..a lot of people break them going that tight.
Have someone help you put the heads back down onto the motor...that gets tricky.
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Posting Guru
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From: Anderson, SC
Yeah I had heard the HVAC box had to go to get in there good. Thanks for the info so far!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
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What does removing all of that stuff do for you exactly?
If you remove all of that stuff, I believe you are not leaning over the motor as bad and as much, and it will make torqing the heads down much easier.
Yeah I had heard the HVAC box had to go to get in there good. Thanks for the info so far!
If you remove all of that stuff, I believe you are not leaning over the motor as bad and as much, and it will make torqing the heads down much easier.
Yeah I had heard the HVAC box had to go to get in there good. Thanks for the info so far!
Any maybe a cheater bar for that damn trq wrench
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
That's a must for 240+ ft. lbs. in my book.
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Posting Guru
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From: Virginia beach, VA
IIRC, the booklet that came with my torque wrench told me that would make the reading inaccurate.
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Token Redneck
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From: Breckenridge, TX
If you can pull 250 ft-lbs on a 1.5 foot long wrench without out a cheater, more power to you Hercules 
But srsly, it won't make it less accurate. 100 lps at a foot or 50 pounds at 2 feet, that doesn't change how the clutch in the head feels 100 ft-lbs. I'd be more worried about the wrench failing trying to pull it's max at 250 ft-lbs. Extensions off the head of the wrench will change the readings, there are tons of articles about how a crow's foot or dog bone on the end will or won't change the rating.
A crows foot at a 90* wont change the rating, but 1" straight out from the head will add something like ~5 ft-lbs to the reading on my wrench.
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx
But srsly, it won't make it less accurate. 100 lps at a foot or 50 pounds at 2 feet, that doesn't change how the clutch in the head feels 100 ft-lbs. I'd be more worried about the wrench failing trying to pull it's max at 250 ft-lbs. Extensions off the head of the wrench will change the readings, there are tons of articles about how a crow's foot or dog bone on the end will or won't change the rating.
A crows foot at a 90* wont change the rating, but 1" straight out from the head will add something like ~5 ft-lbs to the reading on my wrench.
http://www.cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
been there done that. I do all mine cab on. for me it works.
Wiser by FTE
Joined: Jan 2010
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As DSMMH accomplished/posted to do the studs one at a time, without replacing the good stock head gaskets. We removed the transmission mount & the 2 engine mounts to twist the engine enough to get 2 back studs in.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Removing the cab provides unlimited access to all crucial fasteners (ie cylinder head bolts), where proper torque is of paramount importance. That, plus the fact that one is NOT bent over the fender for a long period of time. The last reason would have more to do with the weight of the cylinder heads, and having to lift such heavy parts into and out of an extremely limited, tight space. The relative simplicity of cab removal makes it far more worthwhile to me, especially on trucks with lift kits or bigger wheels/tires.
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Posting Guru
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From: Anderson, SC
Also, do any of you guys ever notice a difference in mileage after doing studs? I've never heard from anyone having them done at the dealer, but everyone that's had them done at the local shop that I use to go to had their mileage go from great to low teens...like 12-13 and thats not pulling anything and running Matt's SRL tune.