the walmart keys are a clone of your current key not a new code. my 2009 only came with one key and I got the same 60$ deal to get my backup set my wife keeps.

 

I think I like the option BigDaddyII suggested. I've looked on eBay to see lots of options for F150 keys without the remote functionality through 2012. All of the keys for the previous 10 year are compatible. But, I haven't seen anything that says the 2013 keys and the 2012 keys are the same. Before I buy a couple, can anyone tell me, definitively, if the 2013 keys are the same SA 80bit keys that have been used in recent-past years? If they are, and I buy a couple, at least it's not a big loss if one falls out from its hiding place under the truck.

I appreciated everyone's input.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-UNCUT-IGNITION-CHIPPED-KEY-TRANSPONDER-CHIP-SA-80-BIT-/190847924228?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2013%7CModel%3AF-150&hash=item2c6f6c3804&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp

 

Thanks! I hadn't seen that one. The two new blanks are on order!

 

I keep an extra programmed, chipped key in my owner's manual case, and have another key that will only let me unlock the door duct taped under the bedliner. One will get me into the truck to access the other key. Just an emergency plan........

 

Buck 1, I'm fortunate enough to have the keypad entry feature, so I can always get into the cab. I'm eager to receive the two new chipped blanks. Hopefully, whomever I take them to will cut them properly and I'll have no problem programming them.

 

One day last month, I dropped my key in the parking lot to my 2012 fx4, it was raining out and I was moving along at a fairly brisk pace, I did not hear it hit the ground on my way to the time clock, found said key on tome clock at clock out time and knew immediately who's it was, dealer wanted 175.00 and local locksmith wanted 150 programmed and ready to rock, locksmith said a key without the buttons would work for a spare and that will be next, so in the event that I lose another key, I will be able to program my own, as far as that goes I will have a locksmith cut the sa 80 bit key and I will program it myself. The lock smith had to plug a scanner of some sort into the obd2 port, will not be nessasary if you have two keys.

 

So I got my new, blank, chipped, keys yesterday. I called my local Home Depot and talked with the guy that cuts their keys. He was difficult to understand, but I got the distinct impression that their failure rate cutting keys was higher than you would expect and than I find acceptable. He even recommended I have the dealer cut the keys using the computer codes they have on file. So, I called the dealer who was willing to cut the keys for $4 each. I mentioned using the digital code to cut them, but he said they normally don't go through the hassle of completing all of the paperwork necessary for cutting the keys from the codes. Rather, they just use the original keys like Home Depot does. This guy; however, said their success rate duplicating keys was nearly 100%. That gave me a markedly warmer, fuzzier feeling. So this afternoon, off to the dealer I went. They cut both keys. Both work perfectly. I was able to program each of them lickety-split, so now I have four working keys: two originals with the remote door lock function and two without. Those without should fit nicely in a regular, magnet, hide-a-key box.

One odd thing to note: While programming the two keys, the instrument panel flashed up a key pad number that i didn't recognize. Wondering if it would work on the door keypad, I gave it a try. It worked! What's up with that? I confirmed it's not the number that's hard coded and is listed on the user manual card and it's not the soft code I programmed for my hunting buddy. So, it appears there are two hard coded key codes for the door pad. Does anyone know anything about this?

Lastly, I ordered an Otterbox 1000 when I was planning to put my larger spare key in a hidden box. The box is waterproof to 100'. It came a couple of days ago and it's great. I had planned to epoxy a couple of neodymium magnets to the outside so I could secure it to the truck, but now I don't need it. I'm sure I'll use it for something else. In fact, I may buy a larger one for another purpose. S3 dry boxes are an option too. I discovered them, after I bought the Otterbox. The S3 boxes are made in the USA and, apparently, are of comparable or better quality. S3 makes a 1000 model that's about the same size as the Otterbox 1000 and it's a little less expensive (about $10 on-line with shipping if you search a bit). Anyone looking for a small dry box should consider one or the other.

Thanks again everyone for your help. My key dilemma is resolved.

 

Glad everything worked out for you. I would try to find a way to tie wrap a box with the key instead of magnets. I don't trust magnets much and know a few people who used the magnetic key boxes, only to find that they had rattled loose and fallen off. This discovery was made of course when they needed the key.