When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi all!
This may be of interest to some of you, as I have seen opinions / posts that were a little bit off on this topic.
I have yesterday programmed a second spare key for my truck that I have purchased on ebay. Here is what I learned:
(1) a new key can be programmed with a key that you have programmed yourself, e.g. you do NOT need two factory keys. I used one factory key and one (previously programmed) ebay key to program my second spare (ebay key). It worked fine. So basically, if I now lose one of the factory remote fob keys, I can buy a new one and still program it myself. There has been some conflicting information about that.
(2) the key in the truck issue. I have seen reports where people claimed that if you have a programmed key (hidden for example) in the truck, a thief could start the truck with a non-programmed key or hot wire it. So I tried it with my second ebay key. Had it cut, but not programmed yet. I put one of my original keys on the dash and tried to start the engine with the un-programmed key. It did NOT work, the engine did not start.
Anyway, just a couple things I learned in the last two weeks. Maybe it helps somebody. Thanks for listening!
Item 1: If someone told you that you needed two factory keys, they were wrong. All you've ever needed is two uniquely programmed keys. Some locksmiths can duplicate an existing key. Trying to use two identically programmed keys to program a new key will not work.
Item 2: Never heard that one either. The RFID receiver is in the steering column, not sure why anyone would think having a programmed key on the dash (or anywhere else in the truck) would let you start the truck with a non-programmed key.
But it always great to get Internet "truths" dispelled! Reps for a great report!
#2 Is a misinformed extension of a small but possible truth from the early days of PATS. The RFID is very low power and very short range. The pill or key would have to be either inside the shroud around the column or basically next to the ignition switch, much like the way the original bypasses for aftermarket remote starts worked. The RFID is activated and powered by the pulse from the antenna built into the column.
...with Shotgunz. I bought a 2009 SCREW that came with one key. I went to Wal Mart and bought a second key for $65. Had it cut and programed. I bought two more blanks from Ebay, and had them cut, but could not get them to work, 'cause the walmart coded key was a copy of the existing key - not a new, seperate code. The dealership wants about $80 for a new key. The service advisor told me they are so expensive because you have to pay an hour of labor for a ten minute job.
...with Shotgunz. I bought a 2009 SCREW that came with one key. I went to Wal Mart and bought a second key for $65. Had it cut and programed. I bought two more blanks from Ebay, and had them cut, but could not get them to work, 'cause the walmart coded key was a copy of the existing key - not a new, seperate code. The dealership wants about $80 for a new key. The service advisor told me they are so expensive because you have to pay an hour of labor for a ten minute job.
Not sure I understand you correctly, but I was able to program a second ebay key using one original key and my first ebay key. My second original key was inside the house during the procedure. I just did it, it worked, believe me.
I believe he had only ONE key to start with when he got the truck. Therein lies the problem.
Yeah, that's what I first thought. But then he said he bought a second one, and had it programmed. And, the way I read this, the failure happened when deputy tried to program key #3 & 4 (from ebay).
Deputy states that he "got the second key from Walmart and had it cut and programmed". That part is confusing, as I do not think WM sells transponder keys. At least, that's what Walmart told me. So here is what I think: the key he got from WM just a non-chipped key that can be used to open the door (but the Alarm will sound). I may be wrong, but I could otherwise not explain how programming #3 & #4 failed, as I have just done the very same thing, and it worked perfectly fine.
I did this to avoid having to visit the dealer down the road, LOL. I did buy the original OEM Rotunda keys from ebay though. Made in the U.S.A., it was worth the extra $10 or so for me. I doubt that this makes a difference in terms of the ability of using that self-programmed key to program another one - but it could. You never know until you try.
Deputy: does that Walmart key you have start the engine? Who programmed that Walmart key? And in addition: do you have a link to the item on ebay for key #3 & #4 that you bought? There are some for sale on ebay that at the first look seem to be transponder keys, but they really are just shells. Please do not ask how I know, LOL.
The Walmart key I have does indeed start the truck. They have a machine that they put the original key in, push some buttons, then put the copy in. I guess the machine is able to copy the code from the original and record it on the new copy. What it is doing, I surmise, is copying the same code to the second key, so the PATS thinks you still only have one key.
I really don't want to shell out the $$ to get another key, but I may have to.
This is a link to a chipped key on Ebay. It may not be the one I used, but it does say that the key is chipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FORD-UNC...item43adb1a3c6
The Walmart key I have does indeed start the truck. They have a machine that they put the original key in, push some buttons, then put the copy in. I guess the machine is able to copy the code from the original and record it on the new copy. What it is doing, I surmise, is copying the same code to the second key, so the PATS thinks you still only have one key.
Now that, to me, is unheard of. Especially since I believe (and I am pretty sure it is true) that during programming, no changes whatsoever are made to the key, but that the unit inside the truck "learns" that key's 80 bit code, meaning from then on the truck "knows" that specific key and it's 80 bit code. Maybe there are programmable keys where the 80bit code can be changed? But if that exists for the Ford keys, then of all places, I would have never guessed Walmart would have such a machine, LOL.
What year is your truck? This is very weird. The "machine" I have seen at Walmart and Home Depot is just that little thing that tells them if a key has a transponder in it or not.
What you are saying has been done at your Walmart sounds like magic to me at the moment. But hey ---- if it works for you. So here is a thought: why not get another key at that Walmart, instead of paying a lot of money to the dealer?
Originally Posted by deputypq920
flixden -
I don't doubt you in the least. All I know is that I tried it on my truck, and it didn't work.
Yeah, no problem. I am just trying to understand what is going on in your case. Maybe we can somehow figure it out and get it working for you. It could be many reasons though. Like for example those ebay keys could be the problem. I bought the OEM Rotunda keys on ebay, made in the US. They came packaged in the original Ford dealer bag.
I'm resurrecting this thread in case something has changed for the 2013 XLT. I'd like to keep a spare key in the cab of my new truck, but on page 82 of the manual in the SECURILOCK® PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM section it says:
Note: Do not leave a duplicate coded key in the vehicle. Always take
your keys and lock all doors when leaving the vehicle.
I don't have any un-coded keys to play with. Can anyone tell me, if I lock my spare 2013 key in the cab away from the steering column, will any anti-theft functionality be defeated?
I actually prefer the idea of hiding a key outside the cab, but I can't find a water resistant, strong magnetic key case that's large enough to contain the big honken keys that come with the truck. I wouldn't want to lose one of my two expensive keys because an inadequate key case fell out of it's hiding place. Has anyone found a magnetic case that functions well?
I'm resurrecting this thread in case something has changed for the 2013 XLT. I'd like to keep a spare key in the cab of my new truck, but on page 82 of the manual in the SECURILOCK® PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM section it says:
Note: Do not leave a duplicate coded key in the vehicle. Always take
your keys and lock all doors when leaving the vehicle.
I don't have any un-coded keys to play with. Can anyone tell me, if I lock my spare 2013 key in the cab away from the steering column, will any anti-theft functionality be defeated?
I actually prefer the idea of hiding a key outside the cab, but I can't find a water resistant, strong magnetic key case that's large enough to contain the big honken keys that come with the truck. I wouldn't want to lose one of my two expensive keys because an inadequate key case fell out of it's hiding place. Has anyone found a magnetic case that functions well?
Thanks for your help!
Welcome!!
In my opinion, this is more about a thief being able to drive your truck away after having broken into it then about the coded key sending a signal to the truck.
Tim, I agree. I don't want a thief to drive my truck away. But I would like to have a backup plan if I lose my primary key while out in the woods hunting. And, without buying him a key, I'd like my hunting buddy to be able to bring my truck around if I'm miles away trying to drag back a monster buck. I've programmed a personalized entry code for him, but without a backup key, entry wouldn't do him/me much good.
If leaving a key in the cab is an option, I'd hide it so a thief wouldn't find it quickly enough to warrant looking for it. Of course, I suppose a sophisticated thief might have equipment to sense the key much like the security system does.
So, I guess I'm back to trying to find a good, secure, hide-a-key solution for outside the cab. Any recommendations?
Look around on ebay. When I bought my truck and wifes car last year, I went on ebay to find blanks to program new keys while I still had 2 programmed keys. I found chipped keys that worked with both my wifes car and my truck, that had the same shape as the previous model F150 trucks, no buttons on the key. Those keys fit in a magnetic box, and was only around $20 for 2 of them.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.