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I agree these switches are a nightmare I am guessing it is elimination
drivers door if you leave key in and door chime goes off when you open door and shuts off when it closes then it is ok
then the rest is elimination from what I have concluded is that each switch is a 2 wire switch and when the door is closed it makes continuity so if you put a jumper across it then you should be able to find the bad switch
I agree these switches are a nightmare I am guessing it is elimination
drivers door if you leave key in and door chime goes off when you open door and shuts off when it closes then it is ok
then the rest is elimination from what I have concluded is that each switch is a 2 wire switch and when the door is closed it makes continuity so if you put a jumper across it then you should be able to find the bad switch
So you are stating to unplug the 2 wire harness and use a solid wire to connect the two prongs in the harness? Good idea... I will see if it works.
I have been having trouble with my wife's escape and also our f250 at work if the switches are the same on the escape as our trucks then it is a n/o contact that when shut becomes a closed contact so jumping the switch out complete the circuit so unplugging it would do nothing
does any one have a old door switch ohm it out open and closed and let us know
My guess would be that when the door is shut, it creates a closed circuit. Over time, dirt, grime, and maybe corrosion of the metal contacts builds up and it loses conductivity. Spraying WD40 to clean off the contacts so it makes a closed circuit helps on a short term basis.
I could be wrong....
I can't see how it can be an open circuit when you shut the door. If it is, then I can see the dome light never coming on when gummed up rather than staying on all the time. Picture it like your refrigerator light switch.
Poor design IMHO. Maybe it is required to be in a closed circuit for the time delay...to send a signal to the relay?