Door ajar light
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 3
From: Broad Run, Va
Door ajar light
the door ajar light wont go out.
I have tried lubing the door locks as noted from other threads to fix this problem with no success.....
How do you even know which door is causing the problem?
I have tried lubing the door locks as noted from other threads to fix this problem with no success.....
How do you even know which door is causing the problem?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,857
Likes: 5
From: Northern CA
WD-40 doesn't always work. When it doesn't and you're like me and can't get your hands into the door assy easily, you might want to think about a trip to a trusted dealer. It was an hour labor at the dealer and a $6 part in my case.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 3
From: Broad Run, Va
i was generous with the solvent...
I actually used liquid wench!! haha
I meant liquid wrench... yeah.. thats it.
very generous and even after overnight.. no luck.
I guess I will just have to go one door at a time and remove the locking mechanism and the attached linkage. (thats the part that will be a pain in the a$$ to put back together)
I meant liquid wrench... yeah.. thats it.
very generous and even after overnight.. no luck.
I guess I will just have to go one door at a time and remove the locking mechanism and the attached linkage. (thats the part that will be a pain in the a$$ to put back together)
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 176
Likes: 2
From: Iowa (fly over zone)
I still have the problem with the door ajar, but there is a simple way to figure out which door is causing the issue..
When you get the door ajar it is normally (in all the trucks and explorers I know) accompanied by a tone. The door that is sensing that it IS ajar will NOT sound the tone. The door that is not ajar will tone when you open it.
When you get the door ajar it is normally (in all the trucks and explorers I know) accompanied by a tone. The door that is sensing that it IS ajar will NOT sound the tone. The door that is not ajar will tone when you open it.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
I still have the problem with the door ajar, but there is a simple way to figure out which door is causing the issue..
When you get the door ajar it is normally (in all the trucks and explorers I know) accompanied by a tone. The door that is sensing that it IS ajar will NOT sound the tone. The door that is not ajar will tone when you open it.
When you get the door ajar it is normally (in all the trucks and explorers I know) accompanied by a tone. The door that is sensing that it IS ajar will NOT sound the tone. The door that is not ajar will tone when you open it.
Interesting wish I would have read this before the wife went to work ok well looks like I have some trouble shooting to do this weekend
out plow truck at work has had this problem for months it is an extended cab is there only 2 sensors or is there 4
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 3
From: Broad Run, Va
pulled all the door locks today...
there is a sensor on the bottom of the lock with a 2 wire plug going to it.
I pulled them all off and cleaned them. They all seem to be working. So unless one of them is broken inside which you cannot see... the problem is from something else.
There is no tone from any door when open. I dont recall there ever being one. So, the door open trick to figure out which door is the problem won't work for me.
Any other ideas?
I pulled them all off and cleaned them. They all seem to be working. So unless one of them is broken inside which you cannot see... the problem is from something else.
There is no tone from any door when open. I dont recall there ever being one. So, the door open trick to figure out which door is the problem won't work for me.
Any other ideas?
Moderator
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,230
Likes: 1,248
From: San Antonio, TX
I literally just got done fixing mine about 1 1/2 ago. I replaced the right front door latch.
Upon inspection of the latch, I found that the claw inside the latch is plastic. On the bottom of the latch assembly is where the switch for the door light goes. when the door is closed, the switch is depressed by the plastic claw.
I compared my new assembly to the old one. On the new on,e the claw is smooth on the bottom where the switch rides. On the old one, the metal switch button had worn a groove on the bottom of the claw. the result was that eventually, the switch could no longer be depressed enough to disengage it, causing the door ajar message and the light to stay on.
I out a few dabs of grease on the bottom of the claw and sprayed the switch liberally with WD40 before I put the switch back onto the assembly. Everything is all good now. Door latch assembly was $44. Took about 45 min to do everything.
I'm sure I'll have to do the driver's door sometime in the near future. My truck is 4 years and 10 months old now, with 97K miles. I can live with little things like this when it's been such a good truck.
Upon inspection of the latch, I found that the claw inside the latch is plastic. On the bottom of the latch assembly is where the switch for the door light goes. when the door is closed, the switch is depressed by the plastic claw.
I compared my new assembly to the old one. On the new on,e the claw is smooth on the bottom where the switch rides. On the old one, the metal switch button had worn a groove on the bottom of the claw. the result was that eventually, the switch could no longer be depressed enough to disengage it, causing the door ajar message and the light to stay on.
I out a few dabs of grease on the bottom of the claw and sprayed the switch liberally with WD40 before I put the switch back onto the assembly. Everything is all good now. Door latch assembly was $44. Took about 45 min to do everything.
I'm sure I'll have to do the driver's door sometime in the near future. My truck is 4 years and 10 months old now, with 97K miles. I can live with little things like this when it's been such a good truck.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,885
Likes: 26
From: Chino, California
I had picked up some dome light switches off of wrecks in the junk yard from Toyotas. It's a button that butts up against the door and shuts off when the door pushes on it. What would entail to rewire the door jam switch to this external switch and end this problem?
Luckily, mine hasn't happened yet, but I'll be ready to rewire it once it happens.
Luckily, mine hasn't happened yet, but I'll be ready to rewire it once it happens.