I have went and tried to do the self test and im not sure if its working and its just dont have any codes or if im just doing it wrong bc i cant get the check engine light to flash after the pumps cut off. ive been out there for about 15 min trying

 

if anyone has any ideas feel free to call me or text im going to go back out and try working on this thing some more.

thanks in advance
Ryan 864-542-5171

 

The canister filter should be a pleated paper filter. The high pressure filter is on the frame closer to the engine. Regardless, 45psi is good and if it were a clogged filter it would stumble at higher RPMs. Make sure when you put it in gear the pressure stays similar.

Clogged injectors, timing and coil are the most obvious ones that come to mind; other than internal wear/damage.

First, when you took the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator was it wet? If so it could be internally damaged and leaking fuel into the engine through the vacuum line causing a rich condition.

Next, check for vacuum leaks. These trucks like to spit the gasket between the plenum halves. Spray some WD40 around the intake with the truck running and listen to see if the RPM changes. If so you've got a leak.

Reset base timing. Take #1 plug out and bump the engine over till you hear air escape. That'll be #1 compression stroke. Use a wrench on the crank bolt to line the timing pointer to 10* BTC. I once messed up not realizing there was also a mark for 10* After TDC... Truck barely started and ran like crap. Once the engine is at 10* BTC on the compression stroke line the rotor to the #1 terminal. That'll get it close enough that it should run ok.

You can also set it by ear. With the engine warmed up, loosen the hold down bolt and rotate the distributor back and forth till you get the highest, smoothest idle. Shut the truck off and restart. If it strains you have to back it off, which will be clockwise IIRC. Once you get the truck driving you can listen for pinging and back off as necessary to have the best idle without pinging.

Get a spark gap tester. You should have 20k volts minimum. 30-40 is preferred and anything more is great.

As for clogged injectors... Maybe someone could chime in.

 

the fuel regulator was clogged and was spitting gas into the oil but that has been fixed changed oil 4 times since then to make sure all gas was out. but when the the regulator was sending fuel inside the oil the truck wasnt running it was after the part was replaced that i got it running. the pressure checks out good. ill try to reset timing again and see if this does do anything.

 

You will get a Code 11 - System Pass - if everything is alright.

If you're not getting any readings at all, something is wrong someplace.

I do this on my DD, easiest way for me is to just ground the STI (self-test in) to the battery - and count flashes on the dash light.

I will also sometimes use the Test Light method just for the halibut.

In both cases, when the test is beginning, you should hear a bunch of clicking relays for about a second before it starts blinkin' at ya.

Might want to borrow or rent a code reader from a parts store.

 

If the regulator was clogged, it wouldn't surprise me if you have (partially) clogged injectors.

 

ok. how do i check the injectors to see if they are clogged

 

You can't. You will have to pull them, and take them to the dealer and they have a machine they can hook them up to(they used to years ago).

 

DIY Fuel injectors cleaning - YouTube