speakers
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 10
From: West Virginia
I was just making a stupid joke about putting the sound deadening on the windows.
Sorry.
Honestly, my experience with sound deadening has been that on most vehicles you can get away with just treating a few problem areas. On most SUV's, the rear wheel wells have little to no factory sound deadening, instead relying on the factory plastic trim. Cover the wheel wells and the floor above the axle and the truck will be much quieter right away, especially in the rain. Second, the doors usually are sheet metal on the outside and plastic or cardboard on the inside, with possibly a thin layer of compressed "fluff" to act as deadener. Its important NOT to cover up any air flaps that are common in some cars, as they help let the doors close. I don't think the superduty/ex have these. But beyond that, put a solid layer of sound deadening down over the interior sheet metal, between the metal and the door panel. This will quiet down any rattles from door speaker upgrades, and help seal out the outside. If you are getting wind noise on the highway there is also a mod some excursion guys have done where they slide surgical tubing inside the factory weatherstripping, or some just replace it with new weatherstripping. Finally, the floor board over the exhaust and transmission tunnel can often transmit noise and heat into the passenger compartment so a layer there under the carpet can help. If you have the truck stripped the firewall is also a good place, but on most new cars its so completely covered with wiring and doo dads its nearly impossible to get to.
that alone should quiet the truck down considerably and thats probably worth doing. but anything much further than that and you are starting to chase the limits of what is worthwhile. The excursion has that huge roof, giant floor pan, tons of windows that are very thin for their size, and thats all going to let it noise. There is only so much you can do without spending a ton of money and time.
Sorry.
Honestly, my experience with sound deadening has been that on most vehicles you can get away with just treating a few problem areas. On most SUV's, the rear wheel wells have little to no factory sound deadening, instead relying on the factory plastic trim. Cover the wheel wells and the floor above the axle and the truck will be much quieter right away, especially in the rain. Second, the doors usually are sheet metal on the outside and plastic or cardboard on the inside, with possibly a thin layer of compressed "fluff" to act as deadener. Its important NOT to cover up any air flaps that are common in some cars, as they help let the doors close. I don't think the superduty/ex have these. But beyond that, put a solid layer of sound deadening down over the interior sheet metal, between the metal and the door panel. This will quiet down any rattles from door speaker upgrades, and help seal out the outside. If you are getting wind noise on the highway there is also a mod some excursion guys have done where they slide surgical tubing inside the factory weatherstripping, or some just replace it with new weatherstripping. Finally, the floor board over the exhaust and transmission tunnel can often transmit noise and heat into the passenger compartment so a layer there under the carpet can help. If you have the truck stripped the firewall is also a good place, but on most new cars its so completely covered with wiring and doo dads its nearly impossible to get to.
that alone should quiet the truck down considerably and thats probably worth doing. but anything much further than that and you are starting to chase the limits of what is worthwhile. The excursion has that huge roof, giant floor pan, tons of windows that are very thin for their size, and thats all going to let it noise. There is only so much you can do without spending a ton of money and time.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
Peel n seal is extremely similar to what most manufacturers use from the factory. It may not be the best but its about a tenth of the price of most of the name brand stuff, and it still provides a substantial amount of deadening. Its asphalt based but has no odor, and its aluminum backed so very flexible. goes on with a heat gun.
On a truck like the ex you can spend a ton on sound deadening but there are too many giant, relatively thin windows and eventually you get to the point of diminishing returns.
On a truck like the ex you can spend a ton on sound deadening but there are too many giant, relatively thin windows and eventually you get to the point of diminishing returns.
show us a website of your peal and seal i am intrested!! thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 10
From: West Virginia
I got mine at lowes. Some people can find it at their home improvement stores, some can't... seems to depend on region. I'm in WV.
Its just an asphalt based aluminum backed material that comes in a roll about 18" wide. Check the roofing section of lowes or home depot or whatever you have near you... its known by a few other names as well.
I haven't bought any in years cause I bought a few rolls a long time ago and haven't run out yet... but here is a forum where they are talking about how great it is and how cheap it is: PEEL N SEAL IS THE REAL DEAL. (for sound deadening) - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums
there are some guys there who complain of the smell, but I haven't ever had a problem with it... and some of the more expensive materials have funky smells when heated too.
Its just an asphalt based aluminum backed material that comes in a roll about 18" wide. Check the roofing section of lowes or home depot or whatever you have near you... its known by a few other names as well.
I haven't bought any in years cause I bought a few rolls a long time ago and haven't run out yet... but here is a forum where they are talking about how great it is and how cheap it is: PEEL N SEAL IS THE REAL DEAL. (for sound deadening) - Unofficial Honda FIT Forums
there are some guys there who complain of the smell, but I haven't ever had a problem with it... and some of the more expensive materials have funky smells when heated too.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
Shop Radiant Barrier at Lowes.com ???
OR
Instant Waterproof Repair and Re-Roofing Material-QR625 at The Home Depot roof&storeId=10051
OR
Instant Waterproof Repair and Re-Roofing Material-QR625 at The Home Depot roof&storeId=10051
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
i got some of that quick roof. why do people do the whole door. i just doubled up around my speaker area in the front but didnt do the heat gun. got cold... but i will!!!i order some infinity speakers to go in there and it will be sounding nice!!! well better than stock! got to put my doors back on soon getting ready for carl casper car show. not in it but got to haul everyone in the fam to cut down on that $10 parking. everyone one chips in a dollar and 4 for gas since i live up the street less than 10 miles away
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 10
From: West Virginia
People do the whole door because the doors don't have much if any sound deadening so it helps cut down on road noise, plus it mass loads the panel so it makes it less resonant. Less likely to vibrate. Not necessary, but helps, more on some cars than others.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 10
From: West Virginia
I have the front doors left, put JL audio components in the third row last week, did the rear doors yesterday, but it rained today. Pain to wire up the external crossovers and I wince every time I drill an 1 3/4" hole in my door panels for the tweeters, but they sound nice.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 10
From: West Virginia
factory speakers are dual cone, which are a paper cone woofer with a small whizzer cone instead of a dustcap. response typically rolls off sharply above 12k hz, often times even lower. due to the fact the same cone is reproducing high frequencies as low frequencies, breakup and distortion occur across the frequency spectrum as bass hits.
the most common aftermarket replacements, like what you could buy at walmart, are coaxials. They have a woofer and in the place of a dustcap, they have a tweeter rigidly mounted to the pole piece of the woofer. the tweeter doesn't move with the woofer, and there are separate speakers for high and low frequencies, so you get greater extension and better sound quality. The woofer is usually higher quality with more excursion so you get better bass. There usually isn't a separate crossover, just a capacity to protect the tweeter from low frequencies. the woofer's upper extension rolls off naturally, which can be undesirable.
component speakers use a completely separate woofer and tweeter. The woofer is typically mounted in the factory speaker location, but the tweeter can be mounted anywhere you want. placing the tweeters higher up often raises the soundstage, though if you get them too far from the woofers you can sometimes localize the frequencies which is undesirable. To split the sound into low and high frequencies, an external crossover is used. You wire an input in to the crossover and then run 2 sets of wires, one to the tweeter and one to the woofer. The crossover rolls off the upper end of the woofer's spectrum so breakup at upper ends of the spectrum isn't a problem. On expensive components like my JL ZR's, you can choose midrange presence, tweeter level, and other tweaks.
Generally they sound better, but its a pain to mount the crossovers and its triple the wiring of a regular setup, especially if you are a stickler like me. Every crossover I wired up involved 4 bullet connectors, 6 ring terminals, 2 female spade connectors, and 2 butt connectors... in addition I had to drill the aforementioned 1 3/4" hole in the door panel to fit the tweeters, and secure the housings to the doors.
Mine are 6.5's so I used adapters and cut out the factory plastic housings to accommodate the woofers. I wrapped the crossovers in wool so they wouldn't rattle and put them in the bottom of the door. I didn't take pics before they were installed but if I remember I might snap some of the front when I do them.
the most common aftermarket replacements, like what you could buy at walmart, are coaxials. They have a woofer and in the place of a dustcap, they have a tweeter rigidly mounted to the pole piece of the woofer. the tweeter doesn't move with the woofer, and there are separate speakers for high and low frequencies, so you get greater extension and better sound quality. The woofer is usually higher quality with more excursion so you get better bass. There usually isn't a separate crossover, just a capacity to protect the tweeter from low frequencies. the woofer's upper extension rolls off naturally, which can be undesirable.
component speakers use a completely separate woofer and tweeter. The woofer is typically mounted in the factory speaker location, but the tweeter can be mounted anywhere you want. placing the tweeters higher up often raises the soundstage, though if you get them too far from the woofers you can sometimes localize the frequencies which is undesirable. To split the sound into low and high frequencies, an external crossover is used. You wire an input in to the crossover and then run 2 sets of wires, one to the tweeter and one to the woofer. The crossover rolls off the upper end of the woofer's spectrum so breakup at upper ends of the spectrum isn't a problem. On expensive components like my JL ZR's, you can choose midrange presence, tweeter level, and other tweaks.
Generally they sound better, but its a pain to mount the crossovers and its triple the wiring of a regular setup, especially if you are a stickler like me. Every crossover I wired up involved 4 bullet connectors, 6 ring terminals, 2 female spade connectors, and 2 butt connectors... in addition I had to drill the aforementioned 1 3/4" hole in the door panel to fit the tweeters, and secure the housings to the doors.
Mine are 6.5's so I used adapters and cut out the factory plastic housings to accommodate the woofers. I wrapped the crossovers in wool so they wouldn't rattle and put them in the bottom of the door. I didn't take pics before they were installed but if I remember I might snap some of the front when I do them.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
factory speakers are dual cone, which are a paper cone woofer with a small whizzer cone instead of a dustcap. response typically rolls off sharply above 12k hz, often times even lower. due to the fact the same cone is reproducing high frequencies as low frequencies, breakup and distortion occur across the frequency spectrum as bass hits.
the most common aftermarket replacements, like what you could buy at walmart, are coaxials. They have a woofer and in the place of a dustcap, they have a tweeter rigidly mounted to the pole piece of the woofer. the tweeter doesn't move with the woofer, and there are separate speakers for high and low frequencies, so you get greater extension and better sound quality. The woofer is usually higher quality with more excursion so you get better bass. There usually isn't a separate crossover, just a capacity to protect the tweeter from low frequencies. the woofer's upper extension rolls off naturally, which can be undesirable.
component speakers use a completely separate woofer and tweeter. The woofer is typically mounted in the factory speaker location, but the tweeter can be mounted anywhere you want. placing the tweeters higher up often raises the soundstage, though if you get them too far from the woofers you can sometimes localize the frequencies which is undesirable. To split the sound into low and high frequencies, an external crossover is used. You wire an input in to the crossover and then run 2 sets of wires, one to the tweeter and one to the woofer. The crossover rolls off the upper end of the woofer's spectrum so breakup at upper ends of the spectrum isn't a problem. On expensive components like my JL ZR's, you can choose midrange presence, tweeter level, and other tweaks.
Generally they sound better, but its a pain to mount the crossovers and its triple the wiring of a regular setup, especially if you are a stickler like me. Every crossover I wired up involved 4 bullet connectors, 6 ring terminals, 2 female spade connectors, and 2 butt connectors... in addition I had to drill the aforementioned 1 3/4" hole in the door panel to fit the tweeters, and secure the housings to the doors.
Mine are 6.5's so I used adapters and cut out the factory plastic housings to accommodate the woofers. I wrapped the crossovers in wool so they wouldn't rattle and put them in the bottom of the door. I didn't take pics before they were installed but if I remember I might snap some of the front when I do them.
the most common aftermarket replacements, like what you could buy at walmart, are coaxials. They have a woofer and in the place of a dustcap, they have a tweeter rigidly mounted to the pole piece of the woofer. the tweeter doesn't move with the woofer, and there are separate speakers for high and low frequencies, so you get greater extension and better sound quality. The woofer is usually higher quality with more excursion so you get better bass. There usually isn't a separate crossover, just a capacity to protect the tweeter from low frequencies. the woofer's upper extension rolls off naturally, which can be undesirable.
component speakers use a completely separate woofer and tweeter. The woofer is typically mounted in the factory speaker location, but the tweeter can be mounted anywhere you want. placing the tweeters higher up often raises the soundstage, though if you get them too far from the woofers you can sometimes localize the frequencies which is undesirable. To split the sound into low and high frequencies, an external crossover is used. You wire an input in to the crossover and then run 2 sets of wires, one to the tweeter and one to the woofer. The crossover rolls off the upper end of the woofer's spectrum so breakup at upper ends of the spectrum isn't a problem. On expensive components like my JL ZR's, you can choose midrange presence, tweeter level, and other tweaks.
Generally they sound better, but its a pain to mount the crossovers and its triple the wiring of a regular setup, especially if you are a stickler like me. Every crossover I wired up involved 4 bullet connectors, 6 ring terminals, 2 female spade connectors, and 2 butt connectors... in addition I had to drill the aforementioned 1 3/4" hole in the door panel to fit the tweeters, and secure the housings to the doors.
Mine are 6.5's so I used adapters and cut out the factory plastic housings to accommodate the woofers. I wrapped the crossovers in wool so they wouldn't rattle and put them in the bottom of the door. I didn't take pics before they were installed but if I remember I might snap some of the front when I do them.
"speaker talk 101 with hasteranger" (in commercial help talk shows) lol
thanks man i feel ya. that seems like a lot a work! no wonder i am just old fasion.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 10
From: West Virginia
finished the fronts today. sound amazing.... I forgot how good the ZR's sound. Of course anything would be a huge improvement over the factory crappers. Even my girlfriend hopped in and said "wow this sounds soo much better." She likes musicals and stuff like that so I let her play some of her songs, she was very impressed. said she was sad cause now it sounds better than the premium system in her camry.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
i just hooked up the fronts and i put 2 layers of sound dead of the speaker area only and installed my infinitys and it sounds amazing! but prob not as good as yours in your componets!!!
had a hard time finding my original holes LMAO. u should tell people to mark them in your write up about componets speakers!!!
had a hard time finding my original holes LMAO. u should tell people to mark them in your write up about componets speakers!!!
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