brake proportioning valve
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Senior User
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From: Long Island, NY
brake proportioning valve
I dont usually feel comftorable buying brake components of flea bay but anyone have experiance with these?
PROPORTIONING / COMBINATION BRAKE VALVE, 1976-1986 Ford F150,F250,F350 + Bronco | eBay
I got a soft pedal almost feels like there is air in the lines, but pretty much everything has been replaced by me so i know its good and if i jump on it, while the pedal goes most of the way down to the floor, the rears will definatly lock. also after 45 min to an hour in stop and go driving i can grab my front wheels and hubs as they r barley warm and most times the rear drums r almost always warmer then the front. If anyone has a way to test the valve im open to that too, lol.
PROPORTIONING / COMBINATION BRAKE VALVE, 1976-1986 Ford F150,F250,F350 + Bronco | eBay
I got a soft pedal almost feels like there is air in the lines, but pretty much everything has been replaced by me so i know its good and if i jump on it, while the pedal goes most of the way down to the floor, the rears will definatly lock. also after 45 min to an hour in stop and go driving i can grab my front wheels and hubs as they r barley warm and most times the rear drums r almost always warmer then the front. If anyone has a way to test the valve im open to that too, lol.
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Front calipers and pads r brand new, lines r in good shape. MC, booster, rear lines, shoes and cylinders r new. The rear valve is in great shape and definatly works as it should. Vac pump is pulling 24 in @ idle and 28 in at 2000 rpm. My only thought is the proportion valve as it is the only thing I have not gone through. Truck definalty feels like she is stopping with mostly the rears.
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From: Victor, MT
Go for it if everything else is new. I would not put it past having a bad porportioning valve if your mostly using rears to stop, which in a properly working system only do about 30% of your stopping...
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did you get your rear drums turned when you did the shoes also what about the hardware kit in the rear (all the springs and clips) this can give you some weird braking
also your front disc brakes will dissipated heat at least 5 times faster then the rear
the front rubber brake lines at each wheel you said the looked good any weather check marks or anything also how old are they if you know i have had more brake issues of sticky or soft brakes be related to bad hoses then anything else (did brake and suspension work for 15 years at a dealership)
also how did you bleed your brakes power bleeding is good REVERSE power bleeding is best
Bleeding Brakes, Brake Bleeding Tools, Brake Fluid Testing
i have the 360 dollar one and its AWSOME but i did a lot of brakes not sure it is economical for you cant swear to there cheaper ones google them and find out
your brake fluid should be changed every 2 too no more then 3 years or 50000 miles crappy fluid can give you soft pedal
also your front disc brakes will dissipated heat at least 5 times faster then the rear
the front rubber brake lines at each wheel you said the looked good any weather check marks or anything also how old are they if you know i have had more brake issues of sticky or soft brakes be related to bad hoses then anything else (did brake and suspension work for 15 years at a dealership)
also how did you bleed your brakes power bleeding is good REVERSE power bleeding is best
Bleeding Brakes, Brake Bleeding Tools, Brake Fluid Testing
i have the 360 dollar one and its AWSOME but i did a lot of brakes not sure it is economical for you cant swear to there cheaper ones google them and find out
your brake fluid should be changed every 2 too no more then 3 years or 50000 miles crappy fluid can give you soft pedal
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i did not realize how much faster the front would shed heat off thank you for that, i guess it makes sense why they would be colder then. the rears were completely rebuilt by me, all new hardware and drums were turned. the front lines look good to me no idea how old they are tho, all the writing on them is clear as day and there r no visible weaknesses in them. the fluid has been completely flushed out several times, conventional bleeding and a vacuum bleeder, no help. when i started this adventure she had weak breaks to say the least now i can lock the rear ones so at least to me im making progress, lol. i may swap out the rubber hoses in the front then and try that, problem is they were change at one point cause all the fitting r pretty round so ill need some new steel lines too. thanks for the advice, nice to have someone with a lot more experience then me to bounce ideas off of.
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What plug r u talking about? If it is the little bleeder valves on the calipers those can be replaced if u can remove the remnants of the old ones if not u will need to replace the calipers
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we just bled a cluth slave cylinder at school. I know clutch vs. brakes but still same concept.
we first did the manual 2 person method. no reusults.
then we moved on to the vacumm bleeder. again no results.
then we used the reverse pressure bleeder. HOLY CRAP. that thing is awsome.
we cracked open the bleeder screw. put some brake fluid in the container on the pressure bleeder and started pumping. we could hear and feel bubbles coming up towards the m/c. then all of a sudden we got a HUGE bubble out of the m/c along with a surge of brake fluid. once that bubble came out we got our pedal back. then we did about 5 rounds of manual, 2 person bleeding until we got a really nice pedal.
it worked so good i want to reverse pressure bleed my truck now.
we first did the manual 2 person method. no reusults.
then we moved on to the vacumm bleeder. again no results.
then we used the reverse pressure bleeder. HOLY CRAP. that thing is awsome.
we cracked open the bleeder screw. put some brake fluid in the container on the pressure bleeder and started pumping. we could hear and feel bubbles coming up towards the m/c. then all of a sudden we got a HUGE bubble out of the m/c along with a surge of brake fluid. once that bubble came out we got our pedal back. then we did about 5 rounds of manual, 2 person bleeding until we got a really nice pedal.
it worked so good i want to reverse pressure bleed my truck now.
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Your proportioning valve is probably fine. You can replace the o-rings on the valve if you want to rebuild it. I suffered for a day and a half with a problem similar to yours. The directions with the master cylinder say to bench bleed it. I didn't follow directions and bled the M/S after I mounted it to the truck. If you look at the M/S, you will see it is slightly elevated in the front; just enough to retain an air bubble. Take it off the booster and bleed it on the bench. It only takes a minute. You'll be amazed at the difference. I always have to learn the hard way I'm sorry to say.
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I bench bled before I installed it. I may take it of to.do it again..... can't hurt right LOL. I'm hoping to get to it Sunday, I had no time this weekend got called in for overtime and money is always hard to say no too
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What you're experiencing sounds just what I went through. A small bubble is all it takes. I took my valve apart but there was nothing wrong with it. Its pretty simple so you can rebuild it if you wish. A blast of air will remove it from the valve body; just don't launch it across the shop. Hope this helps.
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