05 V10 ticking!
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05 V10 ticking!
Hello everyone, I just bought an 05 "X" with the V10 (3 valve?). It is an ex Police K-9 unit. Everything seems to be in good shape, although there is about 4 miles of "extra" wiring that has been cut off and just left in everywhere.
Here is the problem; I bought it last week and drove it 3 hours home. When I got there I noticed it ticking pretty badly. The next day I drained it and put Royal Purple in it and a K&N filter on. When its cold it doesn't really make any noise, but as it warms up it gets worse and worse. There is also a ticking at certain throttle positions, but giving it a little more or less gas fixes that? My mechanic said it doesn't sound like a spark plug going, and we tried some Seafoam to clear the oil rails? but that hasn't fixed it yet either. Does anyone have any ideas please?
Here is the problem; I bought it last week and drove it 3 hours home. When I got there I noticed it ticking pretty badly. The next day I drained it and put Royal Purple in it and a K&N filter on. When its cold it doesn't really make any noise, but as it warms up it gets worse and worse. There is also a ticking at certain throttle positions, but giving it a little more or less gas fixes that? My mechanic said it doesn't sound like a spark plug going, and we tried some Seafoam to clear the oil rails? but that hasn't fixed it yet either. Does anyone have any ideas please?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,410
Likes: 6
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
If it's not a plug, and not exhaust... I would dump that oil filter, use only the motorcraft!!
Also, don't know what oil your using but I use motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend on my v10 only... I had tried thicker oil at 100k but also heard in my case a little ticking, I went back to original oil and ticking was gone... This was almost 100,000 miles ago.
Ps, really lose that filter!!
Also, don't know what oil your using but I use motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend on my v10 only... I had tried thicker oil at 100k but also heard in my case a little ticking, I went back to original oil and ticking was gone... This was almost 100,000 miles ago.
Ps, really lose that filter!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,060
Likes: 7
From: Burnsville, MN
Get mechanic's stethoscope and pinpoint the source of the leak. There's a post active now from Johnny Langton describing a problem with a bad follower that initially ticked, plus of course all of the posts concerning exhaust ticking noises, and don't forget loose spark plugs.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
Likes: 40
From: Pa
The Excursion never got the 3V V10. Black Plastic valve covers = 2V Raw Cast Aluminum valve covers = 3V.
The K&N filters are decent filters built pretty solid. I don't think that they have the silicone anti-drainback valve but that doesn't mean anything on a warm engine. I find it hard to believe the oil filter is your issue. Whether you want to change the filter or not is up to you. The Motorcraft Fl-820s is a very good filter and has the speced silicone anti-drainback valve. I would buy the MC from now on.
The easiest thing to check for is loose spark plugs and an exhaust leak at the manifolds. Usually an exhaust manifold leak will be louder when cold and diminish when warm however that doesn't mean that is how it will go all the time.
If the previous two things check out I would be looking at what is under the valve covers next. Using a mechanics stethescope to pinpoint the noise is a very good idea.
The K&N filters are decent filters built pretty solid. I don't think that they have the silicone anti-drainback valve but that doesn't mean anything on a warm engine. I find it hard to believe the oil filter is your issue. Whether you want to change the filter or not is up to you. The Motorcraft Fl-820s is a very good filter and has the speced silicone anti-drainback valve. I would buy the MC from now on.
The easiest thing to check for is loose spark plugs and an exhaust leak at the manifolds. Usually an exhaust manifold leak will be louder when cold and diminish when warm however that doesn't mean that is how it will go all the time.
If the previous two things check out I would be looking at what is under the valve covers next. Using a mechanics stethescope to pinpoint the noise is a very good idea.
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Balance Shaft!!!
Hello everyone, my mechanic had the valve cover off and the problem is the balance shaft on the drivers side is worn. He said that with the helical gear on the front of the shaft it has worn the shaft so it moves back and forth with the rpms! He said the only way to fix it is to remove the heads, and the entire body of the truck, and have them either replaced or machined to accept bearings. I was hoping someone here knew of another way to fix this problem. I was also told that the motor will probably do anothe 100k but the sound will get progressively worse.
HELP PLEASE! I've only had the vehicle for 2 weeks and I just want it right.
HELP PLEASE! I've only had the vehicle for 2 weeks and I just want it right.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
You do NOT need to remove the body to pull heads or even the entire engine on the V10. That is a design feature limited to some of the diesels.
Pulling either head is a walk in the park for a competent and honest mechanic. Very easy.
And there is only one balance shaft on this engine....
From what he's telling you, I'd be thinking it's time for a second opinion. Hopefully from someone who actually knows about the Ford modular engines!
Pulling either head is a walk in the park for a competent and honest mechanic. Very easy.
And there is only one balance shaft on this engine....
From what he's telling you, I'd be thinking it's time for a second opinion. Hopefully from someone who actually knows about the Ford modular engines!
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10,101
Likes: 40
From: Pa
Yeah get a second opinion would not hurt. Sounds like the truck may have had oil or oiling issues.
The balance shaft is only on one head so only one head would have to be removed. Depending on what labor costs, if the head can even be repaired and etc you may even be better off with a reman long block, then you get a warrenty.
The balance shaft is only on one head so only one head would have to be removed. Depending on what labor costs, if the head can even be repaired and etc you may even be better off with a reman long block, then you get a warrenty.
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Is it possible, and a good idea, to only replace the drivers side head? I'm sure I can get my hands on the parts, but would it be alright to do only one side? If only one head needs to be replaced, I'm sure I could do it myself with some help. Is this problem common? I was wondering if long periods of idling might have caused this problem? Not that it matters now.When I was looking at the truck with the valve cover off it seemed to me that there was alot of room there to work, and if it is possilble to do it, I would love a truck that didn't sound like it was going to explode at any given time.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,693
Likes: 3
From: West of Chicago
if your truck has 100k on it and 3k hours you have the equivalent of a 200,000 mile motor. Periods of long idling and hard driving would cause all kinds of premature wear on engine parts as well as alternators ps pumps and anything with a bearing. Im not saying you got a bad truck by any means im just speaking off of what I personally have seen. I also would get a second opinion. I know you can get used or re-manufactured heads on ebay or a local salvage yard pretty cheap.
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