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This is more than just a sticky deadener, but a system much like Charlie described and what I plan to go with in the future...having some background in audio/acoustics this makes much more sense than simply slapping on the dynamat and calling it good.
Peace,
Jim
Jim,
Thanks for posting that link, Don Sambrook is the guy who I have been referring to as the "soundproofing professional" in my post. The only clarification that I would offer is that Don is not making his own products but merely assembling the products that he has found into a mix that meets his design requirements. I few minutes on the phone with Don and you will come away thinking "how dumb could I have been all these years when it comes to soundproofing". He is very knowledgeable and willing to explain how this stuff works and why.
If anyone is interested in learning more about high-end soundproofing I would encourage them to go to Don's "Sound Deadner SHowdown" site and read up about these products. Don hosted a blog on this topic for years where he evaluated products that were offered on the market. He got into the business of selling his "select" line of products becasue he could not find all the features he was looking for in any one line elsewhere. One thing I learned from Don is that if you keep the CCF and MLV as two seperate layers then it is much easier to install. Other products like BoomMat laminate the two together which makes it more difficult to install and makes for more waste.
Jim,
Thanks for posting that link, ... Don is not making his own products
Charlie,
No problem. So far as Don making his own products, I got the impression that his CLD Tiles were his own creation.
From his CLD Tile Page: "With this in mind, I set out to create the best constrained layer damper I could. The first step was to develop the adhesive/damping layer. Two years of testing and tweaking went into this phase. I wanted maximum effectiveness and durability as well as solid performance over the widest temperature range possible. I also wanted extreme heat tolerance – in case you need to subject it to that sort of torture and because heat tolerance is a very good predictor of stability over time.
Once I was satisfied with the adhesive I started to test aluminum constraining layers..."
Either way, the system is the same, and I have to say that it makes more sense than simply slapping on a dynamat/peel & seal type product and calling that good.
So i am considering using the fatmat since its easier on the wallet. How does this compare to dynamat? I emailed Don about the good stuff and he said it would probably be around 450. Thats a little steep for me. Im not saying its not worth it but dont forget that I am a senior in high school with no job.....
I like the comment about "putting images of shiny vehicle interiors out of your mind..."
Even though I know that 100% coverage is WAAAAY overkill I still do it. I may later go back in with some of the CCF and MLV.
I'm using the peel and seal, and have had no problems with it. On the floor, I just peeled the paper and stuck it, but the instructions say to apply when it's 60 degrees or warmer. On vertical surfaces, I added a layer of spray on contact cement to ensure it stays put. Same for the inside of the roof. I've only had my truck out one summer, but there have been no issues with melting or drooping. On the hotrodders website, there is also a thread about an alternative to lizard skin. I made my own lizard skin from info in that thread, and applied several coats to the entire inside of the cab. If you're really worried, buy the peel and seal for the floor, and the spendy stuff for the roof.
So i am considering using the fatmat since its easier on the wallet. How does this compare to dynamat? I emailed Don about the good stuff and he said it would probably be around 450. Thats a little steep for me. Im not saying its not worth it but dont forget that I am a senior in high school with no job.....
I ended up using 75 square feet on mine and could have used another 10. So, 100 square feet should do you. Here's a link:
I've been installing Eastwoods thermal accoustic barrier in my panel. It definately makes a difference as far as deadening the sound. I bought it when it was on sale which is quite often for $119.00 a kit that covers 33.75 square feet.There is 9 pieces 18-3/4" x 31".
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