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i've got a 92 star with a 4.0 liter engine and i think a 4ald auto trans. when i 1st start the motor it takes 3-4 minuted before it will go into gear. after that it's fine. i've tightened the 2 bolts under the dash tightning up the shifter and my fluid level is fine.
any ideas ??
Usually a delayed engagement is due to either low fluid (very likely) or excessively worn bands and clutches. Check your fluid level with the shifter in park and engine running. It should be at least to the bottom mark. If it does not reach the bottom mark, add fluid one cup at a time until it reaches the right level. Because of the long snaky dipstick tube, it is almost impossible to get an accurate measurement once fluid has been added, so you often have to add some, then drive it to get the fluid to settle out of the tube so that your next reading will be accurate.
Whatever you do, stop trying to drive the van when it won't engage or you are going to shred the transmissions internals. If after checking the fluid level, it still won't engage, it might be time for a rebuild.
Also if the fluid is not pink, i.e. it is brown, it is way too old and needs to be replaced. A clogged filter can also cause delayed engagement. Anything that starves the system of fluid is a death sentence, so it is important that any such problems get addressed before they get worse.
Q1. I have a delayed engagement into reverse (sometimes also into drive). Why is this and how can I fix it?
A. In the A4LD the reverse band is used to engage both reverse and 1st gear. The servo that engages it has a seal prone to leakage, and it also has a rather large volume that needs to be filled and pressurized.
More often that not this is the culprit. Sometimes a leaky seal, sometimes a slow fill because of VB issues. About 50% of the people will find a fix in replacing the seals on the low/reverse servo with either a "double lip" upgrade, or a "D ring" seal kit. Both are cheap (under $5) but you have to drop the pan and valve body to get to it.
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also retorque the valve body bolts to specs, they work loose in the A4LD series, common problem. causes numerous problems
When I have the pan off, I like to pull the VB bolts 1 at a time, dry them off and apply non permanent blue thread locker.
then torque to specs.
it only does it the first time trying to put it into gear. i 'll leave it in gear for about 1-2 minutes and it will engage. after that it works fine the rest of the day, even after shutting off the engine and restarting . trans doesn't slip or shift hard at all. fluid is fine, does this make any sense ???? i just bought it about 2 months ago and it was perfectly fine for the first month and then it just starting doing it.
you might try running Amsoil Transmission flush through before changing the filter. then it would be a good idea to take it to someone who can pump ALL of the old fluid out and refill it with new. i use the Amsoil ATF with great results in my '92.
cold servo chamber is empty of ATF and seal is shrunk from cold.
lots of ATF leaks by the seal until there is enough apply pressure
problem will only get worse as seal degrades.
whats involved in replacing those seals ? i can do most of my mechanics work but have never been any further than changing fluid and filter in a trans.
whats exact name of the modulator your talking about ? is it electrically operated ?
whats involved in replacing those seals ? i can do most of my mechanics work but have never been any further than changing fluid and filter in a trans.
whats exact name of the modulator your talking about ? is it electrically operated ?
Modulator is vacuum operated and found on the passenger side of the transmission behind the heat shield. Put this second on your list of possibilites and do the fluid level check Khanty mentioned above. I also reiterate, add no more than half a quart of fluid at a time and again, it is nearly impossible to check the fluid level with the dipstick immediately after adding any fluid. Try it and you will see fluid all up and down the dipstick. Add fluid and let it sit and drain down for an hour or so, then check again.
Replacing the rear servo/seals is not particularly hard but it sure is a messy affair. You have to drop the pan to get to the servo cover. Even after draining ATF, it will be dripping fluid constantly while you work. Removing the servo cover will dump a cup or two of additional fluid. The servo is just a small piston (approx 3 inch diameter) with two o-ring seals (a few bucks each). You replace the seals, put the spring and servo back in place and cuss and swear as you try to find the right fitment combination for the gasket and servo cover, all while trying to keep the servo from popping out. You too, can enjoy all this fun!
is there a gasket that has the be replaced on the servo cover ? does the valve body also have to be removed as mentioned earlier in the thread. this is the first time i've attemped anything other than a fliud and filter change on a trans so i'm kinda in the dark that's why i'm asking alot of questions before i start on this. i appreciate everyones input.
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