Minor electrical problem..quickly becoming dangerous
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Minor electrical problem..quickly becoming dangerous
My truck has had a strange electrical issue in the steering column since I got it. Basically when the key is turned the starter doesnt engage till you got the key turned to start as far as you possibly can.. then if you accidently bump it at all back towards off it kills the engine. The deadly part of this is my truck keeps cutting off when I hit bumps in the road and then I have no brake pressure to stop.
I dont know if its related ( but it seems to be ).. my wipers only turn on if I wiggle the key and/or entire steering column while its running or hold it slightly forward.
Anyone have a clue as to what is going on? Seems to me the accessory power isnt getting engaged.
Thanks guys
1990 F350 4x4 351
I dont know if its related ( but it seems to be ).. my wipers only turn on if I wiggle the key and/or entire steering column while its running or hold it slightly forward.
Anyone have a clue as to what is going on? Seems to me the accessory power isnt getting engaged.
Thanks guys
1990 F350 4x4 351
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I havent torn into the column. Right now its my only transportation to work and if I miss a day I'll likely get fired so Im reluctant to go poking around inside without a general idea of what it could be
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
From: Montgomery, AL
Sounds like one of two things to me. Either the actuation rod is bent, making it to where you have to turn the key further to engage the starter...also, the "bent" rod would effectively shorten the distance between the ignition key switch and the physical ignition switch, making it turn it back off a lot easier, especially being that it no longer has the length to fully engage it in the "on/run" position.
The other thing I would think is just a worn out ignition switch...either way, you need to look into your column and see what you, uhm, see...lol
Good luck bud!
The other thing I would think is just a worn out ignition switch...either way, you need to look into your column and see what you, uhm, see...lol
Good luck bud!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,744
Likes: 5
From: Earth
) so that way if my truck breaks I can have it down to be fixed and not miss work...
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 2
From: North Reading Mass
Your power brakes should have enough reserve that you have a couple of power assisted stops even after the engine dies. If this is not the case check your booster system for leaks.
If you can't afford down time you could always get a same year column from a JY. Make sure it works and its tight, this era columns have many issues.
Regards
rikard
If you can't afford down time you could always get a same year column from a JY. Make sure it works and its tight, this era columns have many issues.
Regards
rikard
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 5,552
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
sounds like the ignition switch on the lower part of the column has separated.
you most likely need a new ignition switch.
you most likely need a new ignition switch.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Thanks for your replies gentlemen, I at least have an idea of what to look for now.
As for the brakes, they are almost useless once power is cut from the truck. I notice I lose pressure at stoplights too, if I release the pedal and push it down again I have pressure. I'll have to add that to my list of things to check..
Even though these are critical things...its January in Montana and I have no garage to work in. Old man winter isnt exactly motivating me to go tinker hehe. Im broke right now so my spare car is on two wheels and driven by calories. Cheaper than gas but 8 miles one way to work on a 60+mph highway sounds like a recipe for disaster.
Thanks again folks!
As for the brakes, they are almost useless once power is cut from the truck. I notice I lose pressure at stoplights too, if I release the pedal and push it down again I have pressure. I'll have to add that to my list of things to check..
Even though these are critical things...its January in Montana and I have no garage to work in. Old man winter isnt exactly motivating me to go tinker hehe. Im broke right now so my spare car is on two wheels and driven by calories. Cheaper than gas but 8 miles one way to work on a 60+mph highway sounds like a recipe for disaster.
Thanks again folks!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 2
From: North Reading Mass
My 83 F150 vacuum brake booster acted the same way for about a month before it started hissing from under the dash. I was hoping that a Ford Cobra 302 was under hood but it was the same old 180k mile tried and true 302 so I replaced the brake booster. Most buy new but others have bought bone yard ones. On our trucks it can be replaced without having to disturb the hydraulic system.
regards
rikard
regards
rikard
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
My truck has had a strange electrical issue in the steering column since I got it. Basically when the key is turned the starter doesnt engage till you got the key turned to start as far as you possibly can.. then if you accidently bump it at all back towards off it kills the engine. The deadly part of this is my truck keeps cutting off when I hit bumps in the road and then I have no brake pressure to stop.
I dont know if its related ( but it seems to be ).. my wipers only turn on if I wiggle the key and/or entire steering column while its running or hold it slightly forward.
Anyone have a clue as to what is going on? Seems to me the accessory power isnt getting engaged.
Thanks guys
1990 F350 4x4 351
I dont know if its related ( but it seems to be ).. my wipers only turn on if I wiggle the key and/or entire steering column while its running or hold it slightly forward.
Anyone have a clue as to what is going on? Seems to me the accessory power isnt getting engaged.
Thanks guys
1990 F350 4x4 351
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Come to think of it rikard I do hear hissing for a few seconds after I shut the beast off! Never really thought anything of it till now.
88n94, that plastic shroud you mentioned is loose.. making me think the previous owner was in there poking around. Judging by his other "handi work" Im in for a load of fun. The guy was splice-happy. I see wires spliced to other wires that connect to nothing haha.
88n94, that plastic shroud you mentioned is loose.. making me think the previous owner was in there poking around. Judging by his other "handi work" Im in for a load of fun. The guy was splice-happy. I see wires spliced to other wires that connect to nothing haha.
...what ever the fix keep us posted on your progress
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I dont understand the previous owner. He took the time to put this F350 on a F450 frame, bore-over the engine, put F550 springs and a F550 axle on it.. give it a lift, aluminum rims and nice oversized 10 ply all terrains.
But he splices wires all over the place, used gasket maker for the rear output shaft on the transfer case (leaks), spray painted the interior and exterior and hooked the stereo up incorrectly ( bad ground?) so it shuts off when you turn on the lights.
With that being said I love the old beast... except for when I visit the gas station.
It doesnt look too big in the photo but consider the top of the picnic table is about level with the rocker-panels
But he splices wires all over the place, used gasket maker for the rear output shaft on the transfer case (leaks), spray painted the interior and exterior and hooked the stereo up incorrectly ( bad ground?) so it shuts off when you turn on the lights.
With that being said I love the old beast... except for when I visit the gas station.
It doesnt look too big in the photo but consider the top of the picnic table is about level with the rocker-panels
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 2
From: North Reading Mass
X2 on Jaimes "uh oh". I have had two vehicles that had splices and all kinds of questionable adapters. On both I essentially ripped out all of the splices, scotch lock connectors, all of the added wire and anything else that wasn't factory. Fortunately my job as an HVAC/R mechanic involves wiring so I had most of the tools and knowledge.
Get the right tools -
1) A good solderless connector set that will allow you to make good connections, about $40-$75
2) A DMM (Digital Multimeter) will help unlock the mysteries and keep the smoke in the wires. I like the auto ranging ones with big numbers. Between $40-$100.
3) Non standard wiring is dangerous and confusing. Get rid of any wire or connector that isn't made for a vehicle like solid wire or lamp cord. Wire designed for vehicle use is stranded and is resistant to oil and gas.
4) The Haynes manual has a good diagnostic section and some wiring diagrams.
Sorry old man rambling
GO PATS
rikard
Get the right tools -
1) A good solderless connector set that will allow you to make good connections, about $40-$75
2) A DMM (Digital Multimeter) will help unlock the mysteries and keep the smoke in the wires. I like the auto ranging ones with big numbers. Between $40-$100.
3) Non standard wiring is dangerous and confusing. Get rid of any wire or connector that isn't made for a vehicle like solid wire or lamp cord. Wire designed for vehicle use is stranded and is resistant to oil and gas.
4) The Haynes manual has a good diagnostic section and some wiring diagrams.
Sorry old man rambling
GO PATS
rikard
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 112
Likes: 25
It sounds like a fairly easy fix. Remove the 2 or 4 screws holding the plastic shroud around your steering column below the steering wheel. These screws are accessible from the very bottom side. Phillips head I believe. Find the actual electrical part of the ignition switch, below the actuator rod, which is below the key tumbler. Once you locate the switch loosen the screws holding it and slide it to get the proper adjustment. I think this will solve that problem. If that doesn't work you will have to replace the switch.
I bought her a new ignition switch, took about 20 minutes to replace although I don't remember all the details, except you do need the original key to remove the old one....
Only negative that came out of this, she now had 1 key for the doors and another for the ignition...
hey that's thay way Fords used to be anyway..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
irfreddy
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
37
Jul 20, 2016 12:53 PM
zswiss182
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
Jan 27, 2010 09:27 AM
Smurf-Slayer
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
2
Jun 12, 2006 08:46 AM
sedel
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Nov 7, 2004 04:16 PM
