need help quickly on this. went to leave work and it was hard to turn then popped to ON and from then on OFF-AUX-ON are all ON, turns very smoothly. 2nd AUX(counterclockwise) acts like normal. START acts like normal.

i can put it on OFF and take the key out and the engine is still running.
had to pull the fuel pump fuse to turn it off.
NEW autozone cylinder&key and its doing the same thing.

what else is it???

 

Linkage inside the column. If you pull the two screws holding white plastic ignition switch to the underside of the steering column you can move the tab on the switch by hand with no key. I drove my 350 around for a year like that.

 

ok. but how do i fix it? any adjusting or am i after new parts?

this damn trucks for sale, i dont want it ghetto rigged :/

 

I didnt actually fix mine. Theres a two piece plastic linkage inside the column that allows for the key to work with the tilt. Check with ford, parts may be available. Or get a new column from a junkyard

 

the female end of the cylinder pin in the column rotates. tried it without the cylinder in there.
whatever its supposed to grab after that isnt grabbing. diagram of the guts?

the only white plastic panel i can see has a wire harness attached to it, its a plug

 

ok thats the ignition switch, that has a pin that moves the tab you mentioned.
would this be a bad switch stuck in the RUN position, therefor allowing the key to be turned and removed still since its getting an electric signal to move the pin?

 

Sounds like the ignition actuator is broke. Common problem.
The key cylinder moves a plastic rack gear that has a pin that pushes on another plastic piece, which pushes on the actual ignition switch.
PM me with your email & I'll send you a PDF with instruction on how to replace.

 

pmd. race against time now, 1hour til autozone closes haha

 

PDF sent. (that was fast...)
I don't know if Autozone will have the actuator parts.
If you pull the actual ignition switch off, then turn the key while looking at where the ignition switch mounts, you should see the plastic piece moving that slides the pin on the ignition switch. If it doesn't move with the key, the actuator is broke...

 

ill go take that off and look real quick.

stupid question, now that it seems to be becoming electrical somewhat(switch) do i need the battery connected again?
im just sick of sparking and after glow turning on every time

 

Probably this piece in column. Can get it from Autozone $10.
I saw a write up on how to chenge it recently but don't remeber where. I think it was in 1 of the four wheeler magazines. Might actually been on U-tube.

 

removed the switch.
i dont have a tab. i have a slit with a plastic bar inside and a hole in it. hole slides all the way down for crank, positioned at a notch in the metal for ON. and the OFF to ACC doesnt seem to change the slots position. it stays 3/4 of the way towards the steering wheel for both. AUX doesnt move it either.

 

The email bounced... I'll try it again...

 

The email keeps bouncing.
Check the email address you sent me...

 

its this something the battery needs to be plugged in for to test a new ignition switch?