TPS and IAC relationship
it is getting cold here after a very mild winter so far and initial start up with an engine that revs in the danger zone, i need to find my problem fast or abandon this truck til spring.
in doing so, i disconnected the TPS and ran the truck a few days with it detached. works great. i also had it plugged back in and then disconnected the IAC for a few days and rigged the throttle. also worked well for a few days.
i talked to 2 former ford techs from the local dealership and they both suggested either the plenum gasket is at fault or the IAC as they are common to build up with soot and get lazy.
this evening when i got home from work i let the truck idle for about 15 extra minutes then unplugged the IAC and turned the engine off quick. in theory if the IAC is sticking the truck will start up on a low idle and raise higher as it is warming up (expansion and ease of movement for the thingy to move)
i still have no idea why the TPS effects it when it is unplugged. idle came down almost instant after start up and ran fine.
getting very desperate and am gonna replace a ton of stuff this weekend
check engine light blinking super random - YouTube
i really have no idea what that means as it is random and only while moving
will pull codes after work today and see if anything has changed
63 67 63 67
long pause
1 22 63 31 22 63 31
probably ignore 63 as the TPS was disconnected at the time.
what do the rest mean?
was not able to perform a running test. engine reved for a second then the check engine light stayed on and nothing happened after that. waited 2 minutes for somthing to happen and nothing did.
Forgot to mention that I never had a CEL the whole time though.
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22 63 31
last night i replaced the throttle body gasket, plenum gasket, MAP sensor, IAC and gasket, TPS, and adjusted the vacuum lines.
i pulled the plenum off and scrubbed the inside with diesel. when i first pulled the plenum off orange water type liquid splashed out and i noticed on the back of the plenum where the breather connects it was all orange colored.
i scrapped the inside out with a prybar as best as i could and gave it a few more rinses followed by drying and whiping with air power and a cloth.
i did the mod with the vacuum lines to switch the break booster and the PCV lines. also reworked the vacuum line configuration so now there are no smog lines and its all capped off. just a little bit of house cleaning was in order.
took it on a test drive and i will say, it has never driven that good before. wasn't so easy to stall the engine with the transmission as i once got it down to 200 rpm without killing.
i will still note that the idle flutters a little bit but it may still be learning the computer again
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82
81
67
31
gonna swap a white EGR sensor on (original to this particular engine, currently has a black sensor from the previous engine)
don't know why i keep getting code 67 for neutral safety switch. do i need to jumper the 2 lugs on the plug that USE TO connect to the AOD it use to have?
are codes 81 and 82 for the 2 sensors on top of the valve cover next to the ignition coil?
i have a different smell coming out of the tail pipe then i originally had. does not smell like raw fuel, just smells different then any other car i have ever smelt
replaced the sensor on top of the egr with a different sensor. code is still present unless i need to disconnect the battery.
code 31 is what i thought i was trying to fix, am i doing when i need to be doing? the egr bottom half holds vacuum with your finger on the tube and releasing pressure off of the plunger.
i still have lots of fluttering idle. seems like it can't find its range or somthing





