Cheap antitheft tip for your Superduty
#31
Thanks for the feed back everyone,
Benny,
My thought (at the time) for milling the slot in only one half was that it would be quicker, having to only machine one piece vs. two, I was in a rush to get this done, and also I felt that mirror imaging the slot on the other half might introduce more slop when it is assembled, which I didn't want, and I wasn't sure if there would be any alignment issues either. It's easier (IMO) to slap on one piece that completely captures the lever, and the other piece just needs to fit the pins, then lock it. I suppose you could slot both halves, it would probably work fine as long as it fit good. It's all about the fit. If the two halves separate too much, then there may be enough slop in the fit to work it off enough to drive it. The other important thing is the fit it has against the floor while it is installed. It also needs to fit snug to minimize the amount of leverage the pedal has, if the pedal can be pressed in, then the brake is operable.
As you can see in one of the photos, I have two 1/2-13 button head screws holding on the side bracket, my initial intention was to plug weld the sockets after installation to prevent removal (haven't yet obviously) however I did install the screws with high strength loctite, so trying to remove them would still be a bitch.
Benny,
My thought (at the time) for milling the slot in only one half was that it would be quicker, having to only machine one piece vs. two, I was in a rush to get this done, and also I felt that mirror imaging the slot on the other half might introduce more slop when it is assembled, which I didn't want, and I wasn't sure if there would be any alignment issues either. It's easier (IMO) to slap on one piece that completely captures the lever, and the other piece just needs to fit the pins, then lock it. I suppose you could slot both halves, it would probably work fine as long as it fit good. It's all about the fit. If the two halves separate too much, then there may be enough slop in the fit to work it off enough to drive it. The other important thing is the fit it has against the floor while it is installed. It also needs to fit snug to minimize the amount of leverage the pedal has, if the pedal can be pressed in, then the brake is operable.
As you can see in one of the photos, I have two 1/2-13 button head screws holding on the side bracket, my initial intention was to plug weld the sockets after installation to prevent removal (haven't yet obviously) however I did install the screws with high strength loctite, so trying to remove them would still be a bitch.
#32
Tone. Ok. I see your point. That's why I was asking. Still a kick *** little gadget by all means. I really think you should think about putting a patent on it and finding a manufacturer before I do. Then you'll sue me in small claims and I'll just share the proceeds with you. Your descripition of the whole deal will most likely help many F-350 owners. I know it's getting some people thinking. And I never ever thought of a brake lock. If mashed real hard the way yours is set up, will it still disengage the shift lever interlock?
#33
I actually got the idea from something I saw on tv, it's a different set up, but same concept.
I thought about making some for my buddys back when I made this, but the biggest problem is it needs to be customized to fit each vehicle. I really can't see it being a one size fits all with all the variables involved. Pedal thickness, pedal width, lever angle, lever thickness, lever profile, distance from the pedal to the floor, etc.......lot of things to consider, and as I mentioned before, if it doesn't fit good, it won't work very well.
#34
Ok, so I tested my own theory. I tried turning the wheel to see what happened. I put a little effort into it and the lock busted!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well, it didn't really bust, because I stopped before it did, however it bent the loop so bad that I couldn't get the lock off so I had to cut it real quick with my angle grinder. It cracked the chrome on the loop and the way it bent on the pitman arm I do believe it would have stress cracked. Never mind on that idea. Stick with the brake pedal one. Kryptonite can stop Superman but I don't believe it would have stopped the 3 fiddy.
#35
The only drawback I see is that if the thief is smart, when he breaks the ignition lock all he has to do is shift into neutral before starting the engine, then he can put it in gear and go.
Then you have someone driving down the street in your truck with no brakes!
#36
Ok, so I tested my own theory. I tried turning the wheel to see what happened. I put a little effort into it and the lock busted!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well, it didn't really bust, because I stopped before it did, however it bent the loop so bad that I couldn't get the lock off so I had to cut it real quick with my angle grinder. It cracked the chrome on the loop and the way it bent on the pitman arm I do believe it would have stress cracked. Never mind on that idea. Stick with the brake pedal one. Kryptonite can stop Superman but I don't believe it would have stopped the 3 fiddy.
Something like the Ravelco is a good idea, but even then there is nothing to stop them from pulling up with a tow truck and just hauling it away.
The best bet might be to put a boot on one of your wheels. That's something that's highly visible and will deter them before they even try to steal it. Still not tow truck proof though.
I don't bother spending a bunch of time and money trying to prevent theft. That's what I have insurance for. My deductible is $500 whether they actually succeed in taking the truck or just cause a bunch of damage trying.
#37
#38
That has been the way for many years in the honda groups. Hide the switch anywhere you like. Thieves don't like a vehicle that doesn't start. Makes allot of noise cranking and cranking and it catches peoples attention to look at who is having trouble.
No possible harm to the truck and much easier than crawling under the truck in the snowbank to put a lock on the steering that may or may not work.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rrbulldogs
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
11-16-2016 10:46 AM
Davinster
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
12-13-2004 06:36 PM
Bart99GT
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
11
12-10-2004 09:40 AM