block heater/ accel pedal Question
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block heater/ accel pedal Question
This is actually 2 questions in 1 thread.
1st question is the block heater in my truck isn't working and I've read that with an ohms tester hooked up it should read 10ohms but when I test mine it reads from 1.75 bouncing to 18 and everything in between so does that mean my element is bad?
2nd question is the other day my truck went into a safe mode and would not respond to the accelerator pedal so I shut the engine down and restarted it then it would work fine for a minute then again do the same thing but since then it has been working with no issues. Does that mean I need a new acc/pedal sensor or probably just a bad connection?
I've got the adjustable pedals in the truck also .
2003 F-350 Dually 4x4 6.0 powerstroke diesel
Thanks all.
1st question is the block heater in my truck isn't working and I've read that with an ohms tester hooked up it should read 10ohms but when I test mine it reads from 1.75 bouncing to 18 and everything in between so does that mean my element is bad?
2nd question is the other day my truck went into a safe mode and would not respond to the accelerator pedal so I shut the engine down and restarted it then it would work fine for a minute then again do the same thing but since then it has been working with no issues. Does that mean I need a new acc/pedal sensor or probably just a bad connection?
I've got the adjustable pedals in the truck also .
2003 F-350 Dually 4x4 6.0 powerstroke diesel
Thanks all.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Claremore, OK
2nd question is the other day my truck went into a safe mode and would not respond to the accelerator pedal so I shut the engine down and restarted it then it would work fine for a minute then again do the same thing but since then it has been working with no issues. Does that mean I need a new acc/pedal sensor or probably just a bad connection?l
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From: New Kensington PA
Block heater
I fixed my block heater cord in December. The wire and plug were bad. First, I unplugged the heater cord from the block. Then I used the continuity tester to see if there were breaks in the wire. The wire was broken near the plug. I replaced the wire with #14AWG and a heavy duty plug. Then I soldered the connections about 1 ft. from where the wire goes into the block. Works fine now.
Doc
Doc
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thanks for the replies first off..
The code that the truck gave was P2138 (throttle/pedal position sensor switch D/E correlation) on the check engine light.
The block heater cord when plugged into the building is reading 122.8 volts. thats disconnected from the element but when plugged into the element does nothing...
I'm at a loss here, all help is great guys.
The code that the truck gave was P2138 (throttle/pedal position sensor switch D/E correlation) on the check engine light.
The block heater cord when plugged into the building is reading 122.8 volts. thats disconnected from the element but when plugged into the element does nothing...
I'm at a loss here, all help is great guys.
I'm hitting easy street
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Central Oregon
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Thanks for the link amdriven2liv.
I was really hoping that wasn't my troubles but I guess it is. I have the adjustable pedals in my truck and priced that part from ford @ $1011.78 tax in. I also seen them on ebay for around $400 shipped.
Has anyone ever had this problem happen to them ( sensor quit working once)? What is the chances it will fail on me again?
Thanks
I was really hoping that wasn't my troubles but I guess it is. I have the adjustable pedals in my truck and priced that part from ford @ $1011.78 tax in. I also seen them on ebay for around $400 shipped.
Has anyone ever had this problem happen to them ( sensor quit working once)? What is the chances it will fail on me again?
Thanks
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Ohio
Ford put out a tech bulletin on chaffed wires with the adjustable pedals, you might want to check the wiring.
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I haven't had a chance to check the wires that go to the pedal yet but putting it in the shop tomorrow to check out everything.
Wouldn't the sensor stay non-functioning if it was bad though???
It hasn't done it again since I posted this thread.
Wouldn't the sensor stay non-functioning if it was bad though???
It hasn't done it again since I posted this thread.
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From: Millersville, MD
Even MORE possible to be chaffed wires. It just hasn't been MOVED enough to short out....
Unplug the block heater from any power, pull the plug from the sensor and ohm out the heater itself. It SHOULD read low resistance.... 1-10 ohms. If it reads infinity, it's bad.
Unplug the block heater from any power, pull the plug from the sensor and ohm out the heater itself. It SHOULD read low resistance.... 1-10 ohms. If it reads infinity, it's bad.
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From: Ohio
Sounds like chaffed wires, the sensor will not fix itself.
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