Drop pitman arm
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
Drop pitman arm
Is there a drop pitman arm available that fits the 2wd power steering gearbox? I could really use some extra clearance under my oil pan, and a drop arm would get me enough to be a bit more comfortable.
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: New Albany, MS
I am pretty sure you can use a drop arm from a 4x4 box. This is hearsay though... you probably want to confirm that with someone else who is dealt with it before as I have no dealings with 2wd boxes.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Mississippi
Drop Pitman Arm F250, F350
Heres one for a 4wd, you could call Jeff'sBronco and get the dimensions possibly
Heres one for a 4wd, you could call Jeff'sBronco and get the dimensions possibly
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I am looking at this for some different reasons, and an 80-96 TTB pitman arm fits, but is a little longer eye-to-eye than the stock 2wd arm. It seems to be a better fit than a 4wd arm since they are quite a bit longer. I measured, and IIRC, the TTB arm is about 1/2" to 3/4" longer, but the 4wd arm is well over an inch longer.
A slightly longer arm would quicken the steering ratio, but make it hit the steering stops faster.
A slightly longer arm would quicken the steering ratio, but make it hit the steering stops faster.
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From: The Big, Oregon
That may actually help on all points, as the power steering is way too light even with the heavy IDI on it, and the 70s steering box ratio is pretty slow.
I do have an 88 steering box and arm, I'll have to compare it. It's off an F350 4x4, so it'd be the longer style but that may help. I know the spline end of the arm is the same now, I'll just have to see if the tapered end is the same. If not that's not a hard fix, I have made and used bushings to reduce tapered holes before.
Thanks.
I do have an 88 steering box and arm, I'll have to compare it. It's off an F350 4x4, so it'd be the longer style but that may help. I know the spline end of the arm is the same now, I'll just have to see if the tapered end is the same. If not that's not a hard fix, I have made and used bushings to reduce tapered holes before.
Thanks.
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I wasn't even thinking about the drag link end when I answered you. I was strictly answering about the splines.
I would be interested to see what you find out about the tapered holes-if they are the same or different. Also, I am not sure about the F350 stuff; I have an F150 stock pitman arm off a 96 that I was comparing my measurements to. It is almost flat, but the Rough Country drop pitman that replaced it lowers about 4.5" from top-to-top of the two ends of the arm.
I would be interested to see what you find out about the tapered holes-if they are the same or different. Also, I am not sure about the F350 stuff; I have an F150 stock pitman arm off a 96 that I was comparing my measurements to. It is almost flat, but the Rough Country drop pitman that replaced it lowers about 4.5" from top-to-top of the two ends of the arm.
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From: The Big, Oregon
I compared a 75 2wd drag link to an 88 F350 4x4 link, and the taper diameters are very close, .010" difference with the same height (70s is smaller).
I'm going to order a Superlift 2.5" drop pitman arm, and we'll have to see just how this fits. Hopefully if it doesn't, then I can easily modify it. Otherwise, I'll be right back where I am now and I'll need to figure something else out.
Last resort is bending the drag link, or possibly making the end offset somehow.
I'm going to order a Superlift 2.5" drop pitman arm, and we'll have to see just how this fits. Hopefully if it doesn't, then I can easily modify it. Otherwise, I'll be right back where I am now and I'll need to figure something else out.
Last resort is bending the drag link, or possibly making the end offset somehow.
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From: The Big, Oregon
Well, that didn't work. While the splines are the same, the clocking of the four blank splines is different by about 30degrees. While this is fixable, in a 2wd application the extra length puts the left inner tie rod nut into the crossmember, and the pitman arm would hit the left radius arm at full right lock.
So, those considering this, it looks like the better option is actually to cold bend the drag link. One of my co-workers has a 100ton press in his shop, so I'll put a little bend in it to drop the pivot point about 2". As large a radius as possible, and of course cold bent so there isn't a change in the strength of the drag link. While not perfect, it will get it through the immediate time being until I can re-pull the engine and build a new pan. That will happen this summer, when I replace the front clip.
So, those considering this, it looks like the better option is actually to cold bend the drag link. One of my co-workers has a 100ton press in his shop, so I'll put a little bend in it to drop the pivot point about 2". As large a radius as possible, and of course cold bent so there isn't a change in the strength of the drag link. While not perfect, it will get it through the immediate time being until I can re-pull the engine and build a new pan. That will happen this summer, when I replace the front clip.
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From: The Big, Oregon
Basically, I put the 7.3 into my 69 F250 with power steering out of a 75 F250, and the final ride height was lower than I had anticipated so the steering linkage is contacting the oil pan. My goal was to drop the linkage down enough that I didn't need to worry about the interference, or what if any damage it was causing.
My long term solution is to modify the pan, also allowing the engine to be dropped about 2" in the process. Short term goal is to just get the interference to go away without creating any more issues. The linkage is old, and a replacement probably wouldn't hurt anything anyways.
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