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Need Help with Carb ID

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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #1  
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Need Help with Carb ID

The Holley 2300-7448 on my 69 F250 with 360 V-8 is dying...mpg is way down and two rebuilds haven't cured the problem. So it's time to try another carb, cause I've run the rabbit on vacuum leaks, etc. and the truck comes up clean. A local guy has a Motorcraft carb that I think is a 2150, but it is a rebuild and tag and numbers don't match up to Motorcraft/Autolite numbers. The tag numbers are EOPE ZA C5J-3...the clock face on the side of the carb says 1.21 and I know what that means. Did a search on the auction site and found this carb:
Ford Motorcraft 2V barrel carburetor 7TAMA # 121 1.21 | eBay
It is a dead ringer for the carb I can get locally, but the auction info doesn't tell me much and I've been burned by auction specs before, so I thought I'd post and see if someone can tell me about this carb.
I'd have to change my trapeze to carb linkage rod and figure out how to hook up the electric choke, or replace it with the manual choke on an old Autolite 2100 parts carb I have in the shop, but I can get it within my budget. Any input/feedback is appreciated.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by tmcalavy
The Holley 2300-7448 on my 69 F250 with 360 V-8 is dying...mpg is way down and two rebuilds haven't cured the problem. So it's time to try another carb, cause I've run the rabbit on vacuum leaks, etc. and the truck comes up clean. A local guy has a Motorcraft carb that I think is a 2150, but it is a rebuild and tag and numbers don't match up to Motorcraft/Autolite numbers. The tag numbers are EOPE ZA C5J-3...the clock face on the side of the carb says 1.21 and I know what that means. Did a search on the auction site and found this carb:
Ford Motorcraft 2V barrel carburetor 7TAMA # 121 1.21 | eBay
It is a dead ringer for the carb I can get locally, but the auction info doesn't tell me much and I've been burned by auction specs before, so I thought I'd post and see if someone can tell me about this carb.
I'd have to change my trapeze to carb linkage rod and figure out how to hook up the electric choke, or replace it with the manual choke on an old Autolite 2100 parts carb I have in the shop, but I can get it within my budget. Any input/feedback is appreciated.
If the rebuilds have not solved the problem, there is an issue with the rebuilder.....something is warped and has not been properly re-surfaced or component replaced.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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Probably right, but it's not worth messing with anymore...time to move on to a good carb.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by tmcalavy
The Holley 2300-7448 on my 69 F250 with 360 V-8 is dying Ford Motorcraft 2V barrel carburetor 7TAMA # 121 1.21 | eBay
It is a dead ringer for the carb I can get locally, but the auction info doesn't tell me much and I've been burned by auction specs before, so I thought I'd post and see if someone can tell me about this carb.
I'd have to change my trapeze to carb linkage rod and figure out how to hook up the electric choke, or replace it with the manual choke on an old Autolite 2100 parts carb I have in the shop, but I can get it within my budget. Any input/feedback is appreciated.
7TAMA is not a Ford related number. A Ford related number would be similar to this: C9TF-AA

These carbs were also used on AMC's and I suspect that's what it's from.

The original carb on your 1969 F250 360 would have been an Auto-Lite 2100 2V with a carb ID tag number similar to the example I just typed.

These Auto-Lite carbs are essentially the same from 1967/69 for 289/302/352/360/390's installed in all FoMoCo vehicles. 1970/74's have a choke pull off diaphram mounted into the airhorn.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 07:17 AM
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I've heard a lot better things about the Holley than the Ford carbs. I've got an autolite carb and I'm fixin to replace it with a Holley. Maybe your rebuilder isnt so great? Or maybe your carb is shot. I have read many great reviews of the 0-7448 Holley on the FE engines.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 10:10 AM
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Both Holley & Autolite are very good carbs.though each does have some things about it that you just need to be aware of when tuning, etc. IMHO, if you have what is basically a good carb that just has a re-build issue, unless you are buying a new carb, you are taking a chance to some degree of getting somebody elses problems (ie warped flanges/bodies that have not been re-surfaced properly, bushings, etc.).

If you have a carb that previously worked good for you, then keep it, find a local rebuilder (by chatting with the hot-rod crowd- guys who have been playing with carb'd engines for 20+ year)........

and don't hesitate to ask for $ back if the rebuilder did not do their job or fix the problem with the carb........simple parts replacement is not a proper, professional carb rebuild....which many try to slip by.incluing using "cheap" parts just to get you out the door & past the 90 day mark!
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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That's good advice Beechkid, but it just doesn't fit my situation right now. I need the truck running to find work, and can't afford to pour $125+ into another pro rebuild. The Holley is simply shot...worked good for years, but not worth putting money into it when I'm unemployed and on a limited budget. I'll probably pass on the carb I linked to earlier, but have a line on a good, used Autolite 2100 that's within my budget. Thanks for your help guys. Oh yeah, best I can tell after lots of web surfing and carb looking is the carb in my ebay link is probably a 2150 emissions carb for a 351 Windsor or M engine...I'm gonna hold out for a basic 2100 and I can improve on that when I get work again.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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You helped me considerably with all the problems I had with my '69......
I have an Autolite C9UF B that just needs to be rebuilt.....let me know if you would like it.

I even have the rebuild kit for it.....just have not done it yet.

you are welcome to it
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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That's the great thing about this forum...help is just around the corner. FordHarley, I'll accept your offer if the other 2100 I'm working on falls through...I'll send you a PM if that happens. Hows your 390 running? Did y'all get a white Christmas?...we had about 2 inches Christmas eve and next morning.

TWM
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tmcalavy
That's the great thing about this forum...help is just around the corner. FordHarley, I'll accept your offer if the other 2100 I'm working on falls through...I'll send you a PM if that happens. Hows your 390 running? Did y'all get a white Christmas?...we had about 2 inches Christmas eve and next morning.

TWM
No problem....I would be happy to let you have it...you really helped me out.
Old Blue is running good....very strong now....and I am finally happy and almost stress free.

No snow here.....but it was cold...maybe a little rain.


Let me know....the carb and kit are yours if you want them.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by tmcalavy
That's good advice Beechkid, but it just doesn't fit my situation right now. I need the truck running to find work, and can't afford to pour $125+ into another pro rebuild. The Holley is simply shot...worked good for years, but not worth putting money into it when I'm unemployed and on a limited budget. I'll probably pass on the carb I linked to earlier, but have a line on a good, used Autolite 2100 that's within my budget. Thanks for your help guys. Oh yeah, best I can tell after lots of web surfing and carb looking is the carb in my ebay link is probably a 2150 emissions carb for a 351 Windsor or M engine...I'm gonna hold out for a basic 2100 and I can improve on that when I get work again.
Understood.......if there is anything i can do to help, please ask....
 
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