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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #1  
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brc777
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Starter Problems

Hi,

My Dad has a 2001 Mazda B-Series 3.0L (Same as Ford Ranger) with 145,000 miles on it that has been extremely well maintained. Today he went to take my Grandmother to the doctor. When he made it back to her house he got in the truck to leave and it turned over and just clicked. He cleaned the battery cables checked all the fuses and still just click. He luckily got a hold of me and I went to jump him off and it wouldn't do anything. We tapped on the starter thinking it may be hung up, but it didn't work. We even took the battery out of my truck and it still just click. This is the first time it has ever done this.

We know it is probably the starter. But we don't know if it would be the actual starter or the selenoid made on the starter. Autozone wants around $80.00 for a new starter with exchange of the old one.

I was wondering if it would be worth trying to replace the selenoid first? Is there any test to see if it is the seleniod? Can a started just go out with no warning?

Thanks,

brc
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 06:47 PM
  #2  
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You can have autozone check it for you.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 08:05 PM
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I agree pull the starter & use a jumper cable on it to see if it'll run, or take it to your favorite autoparts store & let them bench test it.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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Thanks for the replies

Just wanted to say a big THANK YOU for replying to my posts. Me and my Dad are going to get on it first thing in the morning. It just sucks b/c we have to haul all of the jacks and tools up to my Grandmothers to work on it. It would be nice if we had it here at our shop. But I am thankful that it tore up at my Grandmothers and not any where else.

I know this is off topic but My Dad's truck looks new inside and out. But it does have 145,000 miles on it. I was wondering how many miles are these 3.0L good for. Other than an altenator and new shocks along with scheduled maintenance it has performed flawlessly. I was just curious if anyone has made it over the 200,000 mark b/c that is what I am shooting for?

Thanks so much,

brc
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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200k shouldn't be a problem if it's had & will get regurlar & good quality scheduled maintenance with parts & fluids that say they meet or exceed Fords specifications. Do a forum search for "How many miles on your Ranger" & you'll turn up a multi page thread that'll warm your heart.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 07:49 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by brc777
Just wanted to say a big THANK YOU for replying to my posts. Me and my Dad are going to get on it first thing in the morning. It just sucks b/c we have to haul all of the jacks and tools up to my Grandmothers to work on it. It would be nice if we had it here at our shop. But I am thankful that it tore up at my Grandmothers and not any where else.

I know this is off topic but My Dad's truck looks new inside and out. But it does have 145,000 miles on it. I was wondering how many miles are these 3.0L good for. Other than an altenator and new shocks along with scheduled maintenance it has performed flawlessly. I was just curious if anyone has made it over the 200,000 mark b/c that is what I am shooting for?

Thanks so much,

brc
I would check the starter relay in the distribution box. You also can check to see if you have power at the starter when the key is turned. I myself would just replace the whole starter if it was toast........I think your engine has an issue with the cam syncro. I believe it should be replaced at about 80k miles. if it fails the engine keeps running but the oil pump stops working and you are toast in a matter of seconds.........maybe pawpaw will splain it to you. he knows more about the I
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 09:30 AM
  #7  
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Powersmoked was talking about the cam sensors drive. It's mounted where this engines distributor used to be mounted & it's engine oil pump shaft & cam sensor are driven off the cam, & the cam sensor & its shaft are known to be problem points because of lube problems that high up on the engine, so if you ever hear that puppy making a noise, usually a squeek high up on the passenger side firewall area, tend to it without delay, Don't wait for it to fail!!!!

These engines don't like to be overheated, or the heads will warp, so keep after the cooling system, radiator & heater hose maintenance/replacement, with OEM parts.

With this many miles on it, if the ball joints haven't been replaced, the dust boots are likely dryrotted & letting moisture & dirt in, so they're likely worn & loose, but can be replaced if the upper & lower A arm bushings are ok, otherwise just replace the whole assy.

If the wheel bearings haven't been adjusted/serviced/repacked, with new seals, they're long over do & likely need attention.

The differential lube likely needs to be replaced also, with this many miles on it.

A few more thoughts for consideration, let us know how the starter trouble shoot goes.
BTW, when you pull it for the jumper cable test, have someone hold it firmly when making electrical connection to it, as it'll torque roll if it starts/runs.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 07:25 PM
  #8  
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if it's not too late....before pulling the starter i would double check the wire connections at the starter end for corrosion/tightness etc.

my starter just suddenly stopped working once for this reason...
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #9  
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Got truck fixed today and guess what.

Hi,

We took the starter off this morning and took it to a local shop that rebuilds and sells starters and altenators. It was the starter. But not the selenoid like we thought. And I am actually to blame for causing the starter to fail.

Just above the starter is the oil filter on our 3.0l. There used to be a plastic covering that shielded the starter when you changed the oil filter. Ours broke a while back. So, every time I have been changing the oil filter the draining oil was getting into the starter. It caused the brushes and other internal parts to wear out. They rebuilt the starter. We put it back on held our breathes and it cranked right up. Can't blame this one on Ford. Now I have to find a new plastic cover to prevent this from ever happening again.

brc
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 10:01 PM
  #10  
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OK, good find, fix & feedback for those with the 3.0L, to be careful on oil filter changes & not let the starter motor get oil all over it. Look in a salvage yard for a replacement, bet the price would be right!!!!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 04:57 PM
  #11  
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Update

Thanks again for the reply.

Yea I know a salvage yard is probably my best bet. I would try to find it online, but I don't even know what is would be called. I would guess a new one would maybe included in a OEM new starter. The plastic piece would likely not be sold separately.

On your previous post about answering my question on how to make it to 200,000 miles you pointed out some things to look for and replace. I took it and had new tires put on it at Sears a few months ago. They checked all the ball joints and front end parts and said everything looked ok. But I now it is best to inspect it yourself. We took a long trip in it a few months back. We looked the truck over before going and I did notice the rear diff. was leaking. Told my Dad the fluid and seals if it has any needed replacing. But he said "If it's not tore up don't mess with it". So at least I warned him.

I take special attention to this truck b/c after I graduated college and got where I could afford it (but couldn't now. I bought him this truck for all the trucks he helped me get from high school to college. Before this Mazda he was driving a Nissan Hardbody which he bought almost new. But at the time it had close to 250,000 miles on it with no a/c or power steering. The truck still sets behind our shop. But being parked up for so long tires and everything else including the interior has deteriorated. But if you pop a battery in it the motor fires right up and runs like a new one. Doesn't smoke or any thing. That is why I am hoping the Mazda (Ford Ranger) will do.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and responses and thanks to this forum.

brc
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 05:08 PM
  #12  
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Update

Thanks again for the reply.

Yea I know a salvage yard is probably my best bet. I would try to find it online, but I don't even know what is would be called. I would guess a new one would maybe included in a OEM new starter. The plastic piece would likely not be sold separately.

On your previous post about answering my question on how to make it to 200,000 miles you pointed out some things to look for and replace. I took it and had new tires put on it at Sears a few months ago. They checked all the ball joints and front end parts and said everything looked ok. But I now it is best to inspect it yourself. We took a long trip in it a few months back. We looked the truck over before going and I did notice the rear diff. was leaking. Told my Dad the fluid and seals if it has any needed replacing. But he said "If it's not tore up don't mess with it". So at least I warned him.

I take special attention to this truck b/c after I graduated college and got where I could afford it (but couldn't now. I bought him this truck for all the trucks he helped me get from high school to college. Before this Mazda he was driving a Nissan Hardbody which he bought almost new. But at the time it had close to 250,000 miles on it with no a/c or power steering. The truck still sets behind our shop. But being parked up for so long tires and everything else including the interior has deteriorated. But if you pop a battery in it the motor fires right up and runs like a new one. Doesn't smoke or any thing. That is why I am hoping the Mazda (Ford Ranger) will do.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and responses and thanks to this forum.

brc
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #13  
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Or maybe something like this?

Mr Gasket STARTER SHIELD FOR FULL SIZE STARTERS - JCWhitney
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:23 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by brc777
We looked the truck over before going and I did notice the rear diff. was leaking. Told my Dad the fluid and seals if it has any needed replacing. But he said "If it's not tore up don't mess with it".

with all due respect to your dad, the truck won't make it 10 miles
if you run the rear end dry... it's worth checking the fluid level for sure.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 97ranger xlt
with all due respect to your dad, the truck won't make it 10 miles
if you run the rear end dry... it's worth checking the fluid level for sure.
^ + 1 AMEN!!!!! & the sooner you check it the better!!!!
 
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