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400m rear main issue.

 
  #1  
Old 12-21-2011, 01:43 PM
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400m rear main issue.

Bought an 83 bronco with a rebuilt 400m. New to this motor and carb all together. Problem is rear main pukes more oil than she burns in fuel. I can fix it myself no problem but I'm hearing this is a very common issue on this motor and I'm curious if there's any tricks to fix this other than replacing the seal and hoping for the best. Also i haven't seen the seal or anything yet is this a tranny out job or is there another way?

Thanks in advance
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 02:48 PM
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pull tranny!

if its as bad as you say might even pull the engine. but can be repaired in truck and worked. if leaking out the seal or out oil pan in the corners next to main cap. getting the oil pan to seal in corners can be tricky. I use a silicon called mr gskt. The (right stuff) in the corners. actual name of product right stuff good stuff and dont get on your clothes. doesn't get hard and sticks like tar, excellent sealer on oil pan gskt, corners. if leaking out seal make sure installed in correct position/direction. also make sure not overfilled on oil.
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:10 PM
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Yeah I love that stuff (the right stuff) lol its dripping right out between tranny and engine so chances are it the rear main. But il take a good look at that pan too. Thanks.

Is there a lot of movement in the crank on these or what would cause it to be so common?
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:02 PM
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depends on how worn it is. If it has sat around for long periods there is a small chance the seal could stick to he crank and on start up tear sligtly.
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:16 PM
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It was rebuilt 60,000 km ago. Apparently. Doesn't mean they did the bottom end though. Idk how much it sat.
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:09 PM
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Yeah got says it sat 2 or 3 months before he bought it and its been leaking ever since so I think that's gonna be the issue.
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:09 PM
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Thanks for the help bud
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:16 PM
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I hope that sorts it. Have fun with the pan. I hate doing that!! You would be loosening a few main bearings to let the crank drop a little to get the seal in out easier. Maybe remove a couple and check the bearings?? Loctite 515 good stuff and if you never want it to come off ever again permatex aviation sealant very good. goes on like runny tar but sticks like **** to a blanket.
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:27 PM
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really serious about how that aviation sealant sticks. sounds like that right stuff mentioned earlier. a mongrel to clean off stuff you dont want it on. used on industrial diff repairswhen I first started working in the mines but a pain to clean off when rebuilding. Ended up using hi temp orange silastic/silicon in the future but I still have some of that at hoem just in case LOL
 
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:52 PM
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Yeah I got a pan gasket too just in case. Thanks again man. Can't wait to start building this thing sounds like they can get pretty mean.
 
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:43 PM
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As with any rear main seal the crush should always be checked. There is no guarantee that any seal is going to be right for your motor out of the box. A lot of leaks right off the bat are because of too much crush.
 
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Old 12-24-2011, 11:51 PM
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Next time I'm just going to pull the motor. Wow. What a pain lol. And ya there's no way that motor was rebuilt 60,000 km ago. Crank bearings are wore to ****. It may have been put into the bronc 60,000 km ago but there's no way it was rebuilt. Joy.
 
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:41 AM
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That sucks friend. Merry xmas by the way 30 deg C here in aussie for xmas day. If it's not blowing smoke and goes ok, and if the crank is alright, maybe chuck a set of mains in it to keep it going for a while. Stay safe and have a good one
 
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mark a. View Post
As with any rear main seal the crush should always be checked. There is no guarantee that any seal is going to be right for your motor out of the box. A lot of leaks right off the bat are because of too much crush.

This contributes to quite a few oil leaks
 
 
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