Dad's Truck Build
#2716
Yes, it makes a good door-prop and the shelf works great for holding random Wheezer parts. Oh! You mean "Have I used it as it was intended?" No, but as I don't have a roll-back timing light and it does I'm hoping to use it to check the advance in that Wheezer's dizzy. However, I don't know that it works nor that it is accurate, so.....
#2720
#2722
#2723
Anyway, I guess you got it. Did it survive the almost 2000 mile journey?
#2725
I always wondered what the bells were going to be on, but have been afraid to ask.
Well, that's my bad. I was crunching to get everything packed and didn't take the appropriate pictures to document the disassembly process. But, the wheels go on the bottom and the scope on the top, if that helps.
Anyway, I guess you got it. Did it survive the almost 2000 mile journey?
Well, that's my bad. I was crunching to get everything packed and didn't take the appropriate pictures to document the disassembly process. But, the wheels go on the bottom and the scope on the top, if that helps.
Anyway, I guess you got it. Did it survive the almost 2000 mile journey?
#2726
Doors
Got the doors prepped and took them to Marshall today. He has the fenders and tail gate ready for paint, which he'll do in a day or two. Then he will move on to the bed. Attached are pictures of one of the fenders and the tail gate. That fender had a crease in it that was just back of the marker light, but it is now gone. The tail gate had a dent above the handle and one in the lower left. I'm pleased with Marshall's work.
And, speaking of his work, I've included some pictures of his bike. Unfortunately the pictures do not come close to doing justice to the paint job. The flames have a depth I've never seen in flames, and the clear coat is awesome. He assures me the truck's paint job will have the same depth and reflection to it. I'm getting a bit concerned that the paint job is going to be so good I won't want to use the truck!
However, the plans have changed slightly. I was going to strip the cab, pull it off the frame with the lift, cut out the old floor and stitch in the new floor. Then I'd take the cab to Marshall and while he worked on it I would pull the tranny for James (not Jason) to rebuild and clean and paint the frame. But, Marshall has the experience as well as the information with which to put the cab and core support on the frame and then hang and align the various body panels to them. So he wants me to bring the chassis, sans engine and tranny, along with the cab and "the" rotisserie (more about later) and he'll stitch the floor in as part of replacing the other metal and removing the dents. Meanwhile he will have his guy wire-brush the frame and paint it so it is ready for the body.
So, that means I have essentially four tasks to accomplish over the three weeks and 6 days before we leave for Italy: Strip everything out of the cab; pull the engine & tranny; order in the necessary parts inc tranny rebuild kit, as well as the body and suspension bushings; and build "the" rotisserie. And, the latter means finally using the pile of steel I cut for the parts over 8 years ago and welding them all together. But that means I have to finalize the plans for it, and I know it is going to come as a surprise, but I have been thinking of grandiose ways to improve on the run-of-the-mill rotisserie plans I've found on the internet. To the point of using econobox parking brakes to secure it from rotating instead of the pedestrian approach of tightening a bolt down against the rotating part. Bummer! Maybe I'll cross-drill things and put a pin through it every 45˚.
Ok, enough rambling for today. But, things are certainly moving, as no grass grows under Marshall's feet!
And, speaking of his work, I've included some pictures of his bike. Unfortunately the pictures do not come close to doing justice to the paint job. The flames have a depth I've never seen in flames, and the clear coat is awesome. He assures me the truck's paint job will have the same depth and reflection to it. I'm getting a bit concerned that the paint job is going to be so good I won't want to use the truck!
However, the plans have changed slightly. I was going to strip the cab, pull it off the frame with the lift, cut out the old floor and stitch in the new floor. Then I'd take the cab to Marshall and while he worked on it I would pull the tranny for James (not Jason) to rebuild and clean and paint the frame. But, Marshall has the experience as well as the information with which to put the cab and core support on the frame and then hang and align the various body panels to them. So he wants me to bring the chassis, sans engine and tranny, along with the cab and "the" rotisserie (more about later) and he'll stitch the floor in as part of replacing the other metal and removing the dents. Meanwhile he will have his guy wire-brush the frame and paint it so it is ready for the body.
So, that means I have essentially four tasks to accomplish over the three weeks and 6 days before we leave for Italy: Strip everything out of the cab; pull the engine & tranny; order in the necessary parts inc tranny rebuild kit, as well as the body and suspension bushings; and build "the" rotisserie. And, the latter means finally using the pile of steel I cut for the parts over 8 years ago and welding them all together. But that means I have to finalize the plans for it, and I know it is going to come as a surprise, but I have been thinking of grandiose ways to improve on the run-of-the-mill rotisserie plans I've found on the internet. To the point of using econobox parking brakes to secure it from rotating instead of the pedestrian approach of tightening a bolt down against the rotating part. Bummer! Maybe I'll cross-drill things and put a pin through it every 45˚.
Ok, enough rambling for today. But, things are certainly moving, as no grass grows under Marshall's feet!
#2727
Gary, the econobox brake sounds like great idea, just use a parking brake pedal to apply it so you can just step on it when it's in position. Around here the watermen use a Ford 9" rear with one brake drum and a pedal with no locking mechanism, the other end is truned into a winch. Run it with an engine, step on the pedal to hoist the Oyster tongs, let up to lower, slip the brake to hold position. Simple and effective.
#2728
Bill - The reason for an "econobox" brake is that most of them were 4-bolt hubs. That makes it easy to bolt a crossbar to. And, instead of the pipe-within-a-pipe bearing I'd just use the hub's bearings. To set the brake I was going to use a hand-operated e-brake lever. One of these units at each end of the rotisserie and things would spin easily and yet be able to be locked in any position, and locked positively - not rocking back and forth due to the tolerance between a hole and a pin.
Maybe I'll build this one in a way that I can change out the "bearing" and locking assembly. Or, maybe I'll find that locking it every 45˚ will be enough. Some have said that every once in a why I over-analyze things.
Maybe I'll build this one in a way that I can change out the "bearing" and locking assembly. Or, maybe I'll find that locking it every 45˚ will be enough. Some have said that every once in a why I over-analyze things.
#2729
#2730