Dad's Truck Build
#1967
01-15-2013, 11:17 AM
Logistics Pro
By 50* I'll be in my underwear working on the truck........lol just kidding. Hey how do you make the degree symbol?
#1968
01-15-2013, 11:24 AM
Me, too! Then, off to the pool for a relaxing dip in the water. 
We used to be able to just type in the ASCII character code but that capability was recently disabled by IB.
I've just been copying-and-pasting, can find them on the Internet:
HTML Codes - Table of ascii characters and symbols
We used to be able to just type in the ASCII character code but that capability was recently disabled by IB.
I've just been copying-and-pasting, can find them on the Internet:
HTML Codes - Table of ascii characters and symbols
#1973
01-15-2013, 11:59 AM
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norman, Ar
Posts: 698
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Me, too! Then, off to the pool for a relaxing dip in the water.
We used to be able to just type in the ASCII character code but that capability was recently disabled by IB.
I've just been copying-and-pasting, can find them on the Internet:
HTML Codes - Table of ascii characters and symbols
We used to be able to just type in the ASCII character code but that capability was recently disabled by IB.
I've just been copying-and-pasting, can find them on the Internet:
HTML Codes - Table of ascii characters and symbols
It is snowing here and is going to be 35° for the High today.
The rest of the week is supposed to be warmer..Ready for spring and summer weather....Thanks again...Trav..
#1977
01-15-2013, 12:41 PM
Elder User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Norman, Ar
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#1979
01-15-2013, 03:26 PM
#1980
01-15-2013, 04:14 PM
I hate to hijack this thread to talk about trucks, and more specifically Dad's truck, but here goes.... 
The sound treatment worked pretty well. The truck was much quieter and feels much more solid. The resonance or drone at 60 is quite a bit less although there is still some there. But, now the truck is quiet enough that the wind noise is more pronounced. Yep, I need to replace the window runs, weather stripping, etc but not until "the transformation" takes place. Anyway, the truck feels much better overall with the sound treatment and the only problem is that I found myself driving 5 MPH faster than before.
And, the "new" seat is better from two points of view (pun intended - you'll see. Oops, another pun.): First, the foam is more resilient and the springs seem to work better, so it feels better. Second, it sits you up further and you can see better from that vantage point.
But, I did have a discovery today - the choke wasn't coming all the way off or, if it did, it took forever to do so. I'd driven about 10 miles and realized that the AFR meter was showing 12.5:1, steadily. So I pushed in the clutch and let up on the throttle. Sure enough, the fast idle was still on. I pulled over and checked the choke stove and it was cold. Yes, it was about 15 degrees (wish I knew how to put the ° symbol in), but the stove should have been at least warm by then. I used a little bitty bungee cord to hold the choke open and went on. I've now checked and the stove is fine. I'd been powering the E'brock's choke off the S terminal on the alternator, which gives ~7 volts, so obviously that isn't enough on cold mornings. Anyone have a suggestion on where to get the 12 volts? I know this has been cussed and discussed at length, so I'm not wanting to open up that wound again, but...
Also, whether because the choke has heretofore been on a bit or because the air was so cold (no, Jim, I don't have the air cleaner set up to use manifold heat - yet.), but the engine was running a bit leaner today. At no time after I pulled the choke off did I see the AFR meter light up unless I got down on the throttle enough to bring manifold vacuum down to 5", so it was something north of 15:1, which is leaner than it has been. And, if I rolled into the throttle for a hill the engine got a bit rough as the vacuum got down close to 5", but smoothed up nicely as the AFR meter showed the rods were starting to lift, which they do at 5" of vacuum. Even with the lean condition, and I refilled the tank after finding the choke on, I only got 14 MPG today, which I take to mean it is running too lean and would do better put back stock. So, it looks like carb and choke work is next.
Also, I saw something I'd not seen before - the aftermarket temp gauge cycling from 190° to 195°. Apparently the coolant in the nice aluminum radiator was COLD and the 'stat would open a bit and then close. It cycled like that the whole 260 miles, even when the temp got to 35° outside. The 'stat seems to be working, but since it is the wrong one for this engine I'll be replacing it as well before the trip.
And, speaking of the "the transformation", the paint guy called today. Doesn't want to give me any #'s before coming over and looking at the truck. So that's scheduled for Friday afternoon. By then I need to have mapped out in my mind how I want to do this, but here's my current thinking: I've already replaced so much (engine, tranny, t-case, front drive shaft, wheels, seat, alternator, starter, battery, heater motor, and front bumper to name a few) and plan to replace a bunch more (inc windshield, fenders, bed, doors, tail gate, front inner fender, carpet, and door panels) that I'm wondering how strong of a claim I have to call it Dad's truck. So, the cab is something I'd like to keep, especially since the VIN goes with the cab - unless unusual methods are used. And, having the build sheet with the VIN on it makes it even more imperative to keep the VIN.
Given that, I think I'll show the guy the cab and the other parts (fenders, doors, etc) and suggest that I do the rough work including welding in new metal, swapping fenders/doors/bed, and removing all the stuff like windows, lights, instrument panel, wiring, etc. Then I'll bring the truck to him to do the final body work and paint.
However, that means the parts like the fenders, doors, etc will still have other colors showing unless he goes to great lengths to paint those areas as well. So, another option is for me to do the rough work, as above, including pulling the cab off, and taking all of that on a trailer to him. He does the final body work and paint as before, but now can get to all sides of everything. Then I put the kit back together.
Thoughts?
The sound treatment worked pretty well. The truck was much quieter and feels much more solid. The resonance or drone at 60 is quite a bit less although there is still some there. But, now the truck is quiet enough that the wind noise is more pronounced. Yep, I need to replace the window runs, weather stripping, etc but not until "the transformation" takes place. Anyway, the truck feels much better overall with the sound treatment and the only problem is that I found myself driving 5 MPH faster than before.
And, the "new" seat is better from two points of view (pun intended - you'll see. Oops, another pun.): First, the foam is more resilient and the springs seem to work better, so it feels better. Second, it sits you up further and you can see better from that vantage point.
But, I did have a discovery today - the choke wasn't coming all the way off or, if it did, it took forever to do so. I'd driven about 10 miles and realized that the AFR meter was showing 12.5:1, steadily. So I pushed in the clutch and let up on the throttle. Sure enough, the fast idle was still on. I pulled over and checked the choke stove and it was cold. Yes, it was about 15 degrees (wish I knew how to put the ° symbol in), but the stove should have been at least warm by then. I used a little bitty bungee cord to hold the choke open and went on. I've now checked and the stove is fine. I'd been powering the E'brock's choke off the S terminal on the alternator, which gives ~7 volts, so obviously that isn't enough on cold mornings. Anyone have a suggestion on where to get the 12 volts? I know this has been cussed and discussed at length, so I'm not wanting to open up that wound again, but...
Also, whether because the choke has heretofore been on a bit or because the air was so cold (no, Jim, I don't have the air cleaner set up to use manifold heat - yet.), but the engine was running a bit leaner today. At no time after I pulled the choke off did I see the AFR meter light up unless I got down on the throttle enough to bring manifold vacuum down to 5", so it was something north of 15:1, which is leaner than it has been. And, if I rolled into the throttle for a hill the engine got a bit rough as the vacuum got down close to 5", but smoothed up nicely as the AFR meter showed the rods were starting to lift, which they do at 5" of vacuum. Even with the lean condition, and I refilled the tank after finding the choke on, I only got 14 MPG today, which I take to mean it is running too lean and would do better put back stock. So, it looks like carb and choke work is next.
Also, I saw something I'd not seen before - the aftermarket temp gauge cycling from 190° to 195°. Apparently the coolant in the nice aluminum radiator was COLD and the 'stat would open a bit and then close. It cycled like that the whole 260 miles, even when the temp got to 35° outside. The 'stat seems to be working, but since it is the wrong one for this engine I'll be replacing it as well before the trip.
And, speaking of the "the transformation", the paint guy called today. Doesn't want to give me any #'s before coming over and looking at the truck. So that's scheduled for Friday afternoon. By then I need to have mapped out in my mind how I want to do this, but here's my current thinking: I've already replaced so much (engine, tranny, t-case, front drive shaft, wheels, seat, alternator, starter, battery, heater motor, and front bumper to name a few) and plan to replace a bunch more (inc windshield, fenders, bed, doors, tail gate, front inner fender, carpet, and door panels) that I'm wondering how strong of a claim I have to call it Dad's truck. So, the cab is something I'd like to keep, especially since the VIN goes with the cab - unless unusual methods are used. And, having the build sheet with the VIN on it makes it even more imperative to keep the VIN.
Given that, I think I'll show the guy the cab and the other parts (fenders, doors, etc) and suggest that I do the rough work including welding in new metal, swapping fenders/doors/bed, and removing all the stuff like windows, lights, instrument panel, wiring, etc. Then I'll bring the truck to him to do the final body work and paint.
However, that means the parts like the fenders, doors, etc will still have other colors showing unless he goes to great lengths to paint those areas as well. So, another option is for me to do the rough work, as above, including pulling the cab off, and taking all of that on a trailer to him. He does the final body work and paint as before, but now can get to all sides of everything. Then I put the kit back together.
Thoughts?