EEC IV Issues
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EEC IV Issues
So around July I had this problem with one bank of injectors not closing, just stays open and floods the engine out on those cylinders. After trying many things, I disconnected the EEC and plugged it back in and everything worked fine. Got me.
About 1000 miles later same thing, so I disconnected it and fine. Then last night about 1500 mileslater, same thing, but this time the problem wouldn't go away.
I am going ot a yard to get an eec or an auto store, hope that will fix it, any ideas???
About 1000 miles later same thing, so I disconnected it and fine. Then last night about 1500 mileslater, same thing, but this time the problem wouldn't go away.
I am going ot a yard to get an eec or an auto store, hope that will fix it, any ideas???
Elder User
Joined: May 2001
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From: washington
EEC IV Issues
It sounds like you are right if it fixes it if you unplug the battery. You can also look online as there are several places that fix your eec for around 200. I had one fixed for a mitsubishi and it works great. Much cheaper than buying a new one! Although I'm not quite sure what a new one costs now.
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EEC IV Issues
Well I just searched a bone yard, 50 dollars there, and nothing wit ha 302 5 speed. Oh well. Called advanced auto 100 dollars new and a 75 dollar core.
I ordered one should be here monday. but I am still bugged as to what went on this one.
I am going ot plug the old on back in and hopefully it will work for a few days. Not waht I needed in the middle of a move!
I ordered one should be here monday. but I am still bugged as to what went on this one.
I am going ot plug the old on back in and hopefully it will work for a few days. Not waht I needed in the middle of a move!
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Joined: May 2001
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From: washington
EEC IV Issues
The boad containes several capasitors which can leak. When they leak they can spread onto the circuit board causing havoc. It's not very common. But can happen, expecially in hot climates!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Memphis, TN
EEC IV Issues
Put it back in and pull the codes. That'll tell you what happened. It may be EXTERNAL to the computer. The injectors are opened by the TanRed & the TanOrg wires being grounded by the computer (the Red is always hot). If you have a worn spot on one of the tan wires, it could go to ground & hold that bank of injectors open. Wiggling the harness (by unplugging the computer) might break the ground short temporarily, but it would work its way back into that position as you drive, opening them again.
Next time it stalls (or immediately if you plug it back in & it won't run), test those 2 wires (TR & TO) by unplugging ONLY 1 INJECTOR PER BANK & probing in its connector with a multimeter set for continuity test. Put one lead in the injector plug & the other on an engine ground. If it tests continuous (grounded) with the key on but the engine not running, carefully unplug the computer, trying NOT to move the harness any more than absolutely necessary. Leave the meter connected & turned on the whole time, so you can hear (assuming your meter has a continuity buzzer) if the continuity is broken. If it breaks BEFORE you have the computer unplugged, then the fault is in the harness. If it breaks WHEN you unplug the computer, then the fault is IN the computer.
Next time it stalls (or immediately if you plug it back in & it won't run), test those 2 wires (TR & TO) by unplugging ONLY 1 INJECTOR PER BANK & probing in its connector with a multimeter set for continuity test. Put one lead in the injector plug & the other on an engine ground. If it tests continuous (grounded) with the key on but the engine not running, carefully unplug the computer, trying NOT to move the harness any more than absolutely necessary. Leave the meter connected & turned on the whole time, so you can hear (assuming your meter has a continuity buzzer) if the continuity is broken. If it breaks BEFORE you have the computer unplugged, then the fault is in the harness. If it breaks WHEN you unplug the computer, then the fault is IN the computer.
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EEC IV Issues
Last time I ran into this problem, I pulled all the codes, only thing that popped up was a code for a faulty EGR valve and EGR position sensor. As for the injector voltage and continuity, I check that also last time and everything pointed towards the computer. I ordered a new one on Saturday, should be here today, but before I un-package it, and make it no returnable, I will check the injector harness again, just for #####s and grins.
Should find out hat it is in 6 hours. Thanks for your help.
Should find out hat it is in 6 hours. Thanks for your help.
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EEC IV Issues
So I got the new computer. Plugged in the old to be sure, same problem. I check the continuity with the hot wire and ground, all good. Unplugged the computer and check again, no continuity (like it should be). Disconnected the battery and plugged new computer in, redid battery and wham she works again!!!!
We I'll be dammed, stupid computer!!! Works great again. I am going to try to turn in an old I6 EEC I have and see if I can keep this one. I want to find out what happened to it.
Thanks for all your help!!
We I'll be dammed, stupid computer!!! Works great again. I am going to try to turn in an old I6 EEC I have and see if I can keep this one. I want to find out what happened to it.
Thanks for all your help!!
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EEC IV Issues
Well its back. I had relaced the eec the other night and it works great drove like 100 miles yesterday, nothing but a check engine light. Last time I pulled the codes I got a 31 33 and 41. Those are for the EGR system and the 02 sensor, lean condition.
Do you think the o2 sensor could be sending a signal to do this??
Anywyas last night the truck was just sitting there idling and wham it started stumbling and spitting. I jungle the harness around, nothing, shut truck off and started again nothing, finally I unplugged the EEC and plugged back in again, and it worked. Drove about 30 miles home from a friends house and no problems, just check engine light.
I would like to get this solved before the winter! Any suggestions???
Thanks for your help!
Do you think the o2 sensor could be sending a signal to do this??
Anywyas last night the truck was just sitting there idling and wham it started stumbling and spitting. I jungle the harness around, nothing, shut truck off and started again nothing, finally I unplugged the EEC and plugged back in again, and it worked. Drove about 30 miles home from a friends house and no problems, just check engine light.
I would like to get this solved before the winter! Any suggestions???
Thanks for your help!
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