Cheyenne: The Build
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 1
Keep going !!!
That’s it! I’m done with this truck! Someone just come and tow this heap way from me!
Geeezzzz guy’s….. now you all have me not sleeping at night. Pleeeeeze no more posts about how bad this thing is. It just has some issues to deal with like all the other trucks on this forum do or did at one time. This truck is in very decent condition still. Despite the frame issues you see in the rear, that rear is still VERY solid back there as a whole. Just need to cut out and replace a few areas. What is the big deal with that?
The frame behind the one spring hanger I admit is pretty bad, and I have not figured how best to replace that area. Until I have it off (after the first of the year) I really won’t be able to assess it. I purchased a pneumatic needle scaler last night and I am anxious to run it over the frame back there. This should do pretty good job knocking off the old flaking coating and surface rust, which I think is making the frame look worse than it is. I hope that’s the case anyhow…….
This isn’t work for me! This has already been the most fun I have had in a long time. Seriously. And so long as it remains fun, I’ll be good. I don’t NEED this truck. I WANT this truck. And maybe that’s the difference in committing to a project like this.
Geeezzzz guy’s….. now you all have me not sleeping at night. Pleeeeeze no more posts about how bad this thing is. It just has some issues to deal with like all the other trucks on this forum do or did at one time. This truck is in very decent condition still. Despite the frame issues you see in the rear, that rear is still VERY solid back there as a whole. Just need to cut out and replace a few areas. What is the big deal with that?
The frame behind the one spring hanger I admit is pretty bad, and I have not figured how best to replace that area. Until I have it off (after the first of the year) I really won’t be able to assess it. I purchased a pneumatic needle scaler last night and I am anxious to run it over the frame back there. This should do pretty good job knocking off the old flaking coating and surface rust, which I think is making the frame look worse than it is. I hope that’s the case anyhow…….
This isn’t work for me! This has already been the most fun I have had in a long time. Seriously. And so long as it remains fun, I’ll be good. I don’t NEED this truck. I WANT this truck. And maybe that’s the difference in committing to a project like this.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 13,150
Likes: 348
From: THIS IS SPARTA!, ...Mo.
If you can't spot what a lifter is I suggest you do NOT put this engine back together. I would recommend replacing all the lifters and cam anyway. They are common wear items like an oil pump. You wouldn't rebuild an engine and use the stock timing chain and oil pump, don't use the same cam and lifters. (I'm **** about this stuff) Besides, it's a great opportunity to bump up performance with a little bigger cam. I've built dozens and dozens of engines and I have yet to put used lifters in an engine.
You need to do some hard core research on how an engine works, or give the pieces to a machine shop and tell them to call you when it's done. There's too many pieces in that engine that can turn a good running engine in to a grenade if you don't know what you're doing. (and the fact that you were hammering on a lifter trying to "seat it" means you have a lot to learn.)
Seriously, I'm not trying to be negative here, I just don't want you to waste a lot of time and money by doing it wrong. There's clearances in there that are into the single digit thousandth's of an inch. ...and it has to be dead on ***** accurate or the engine can throw a rod in short order.
You need to do some hard core research on how an engine works, or give the pieces to a machine shop and tell them to call you when it's done. There's too many pieces in that engine that can turn a good running engine in to a grenade if you don't know what you're doing. (and the fact that you were hammering on a lifter trying to "seat it" means you have a lot to learn.)
Seriously, I'm not trying to be negative here, I just don't want you to waste a lot of time and money by doing it wrong. There's clearances in there that are into the single digit thousandth's of an inch. ...and it has to be dead on ***** accurate or the engine can throw a rod in short order.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,536
Likes: 0
From: Schweinfurt Germany
He is right to a purpose still if you want to learn to do this now is a good as time to start as any.
There are many great sites for rebuilding engines many wonderful videos and articles about the parts and functions of the pieces.
There are many great sites for rebuilding engines many wonderful videos and articles about the parts and functions of the pieces.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: MASS
I feel real bad for anyone following along that knows even less than me that they witnessed that episode. So my apologies to you guy’s on that one. I’m not that proud of a man and know when to admit defeat. I didn’t actually try to drive them, I just knew they weren’t pushing back down easily. But yup, when I actually put my brain into gear and THINK, it all comes together.
With this motor, especially since it is already .040 over, I am not likely to want to truly rebuild it ever, or turn it into a 400, so I am less concerned that I will be reusing a lot of parts when it goes back together. I just want to use it for my “trial” period of the truck to see what a 351m “feels” like. So I probably will still take it down to a bare block, clean it out good, (no sandblasting, milling, or any other true machine operations) and just put it back together properly. I guess at a minimum that means new rings, seals, and gaskets. Not looking to replace crank or cam bearings, cam, lifters, etc.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: MASS
That's what I origianlly did back a few pages.
Gotta get at it some more I guess....
No idea on the previouse rebuild.
That is a great idea on the rivets. I might have to try that next.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: MASS
I'm DEFINITLY keeping this original frame as all the numbers are matching to original.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: MASS
The debris sitting in the valley pan I am pretty certain came from the vally pan itself. You can see (green arrows) that this area had deteriorated through at all four corners of the heads.
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x474/BDawg171/?action=view&current=IMG_3069r.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x474/BDawg171/IMG_3069r.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x474/BDawg171/?action=view&current=IMG_3069r.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x474/BDawg171/IMG_3069r.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,536
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From: Schweinfurt Germany
Ewww really needs a good cleaning I know you didnt want to much done to it but the whole block might need to get a bath. Those corners are part of your coolant flow and those are completely blocked.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Jersey Shore
Lost, I really won't have a chance to mark out and truely figure out what I would need until I have all the parts back there taken off....so if it is something you are looking to get rid of and out of your hair, then dont wait for me. If you can hang on another month or so, than that would be cool too, but do what you gotta do.
I'm DEFINITLY keeping this original frame as all the numbers are matching to original.
I'm DEFINITLY keeping this original frame as all the numbers are matching to original.
remember I also have some spare engines available too..
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 432
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From: MASS
but can you give us a little info on that barn/shop/garage you have. Is that a post & beam? Did you buy it prefab or just build it that way.<a href="http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x474/BDawg171/?action=view&current=Barnpic.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x474/BDawg171/Barnpic.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Seriously though....I'm a little reserved at letting the whole world into my house without knowing them. You know what I mean?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 26
From: Panama City, FL
Thanks for the interest in the barn. Here is a pic of me in front of it. Yes, it is post and beam. Not a prefab really. I designed out what I wanted (how many options are there really) and the lumber mill engineered it with plans and fabed up all the timber. Then a different contractor erected it. Had to make all the joints on site. Also put a standing seam metal roof on it.
Seriously though....I'm a little reserved at letting the whole world into my house without knowing them. You know what I mean?
Seriously though....I'm a little reserved at letting the whole world into my house without knowing them. You know what I mean?
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,286
Likes: 5,826
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
We do not want to see your house, just where you work on your Ford truck. I think they want a over all shot of the barn that's all.....
Why is your face yellow in the pic? And how's is going on the rest of the tear down?
Rivet are PITA, but grind or shear off the head and then punch out.
Why is your face yellow in the pic? And how's is going on the rest of the tear down?
Rivet are PITA, but grind or shear off the head and then punch out.