Thanks Oldstyle & montana!

With the two issues being seperate, I gotta start deducing.

Could there have been any pressure in the transmission for any reason? I wouldnt think so, especially since it was cold. I'm starting to wonder if it wasn't the tranny fluid when it first started falling down onto the bottom of the bellhousing??? The bellhousing surround kind of has a certain hollowness to it that might echo the sound of fluid when it first dumped in it??? Then once enough fluid was in it perhaps it then deadend the sound. The "burst" lasted about 1 1/2 seconds.

 

Torque converter shaft coming out? Oh wait I got it........after I read.....

"When I was lifting the motor, I heard a “burst” and what sounded like the release of some air that was under pressure."

Did you smell methane after that? Sounds like a case of "strain released flatulence". IMROTFLMAO

 

While a bit on the scary side, the motor stand will be fine, they will have some flex like that, yet hold up just fine. You did well in getting the 4 wheeled version, the tripods are scary as hell and actually can tip over. Haven't yet, but been close a couple times moving them around. I despise the slide through design like that, you can either wedge something in there, or do like I do with the cheapy POS units built like that and weld them solid. It just depends if you want to be able to break it down again. You could maybe drill through and put a bolt all the way through to solidify it as well.

 

I didn't notice you pulled the engine with the torque converter still attached. While it can be done, as you found out, you will damage the transmission if you try to install it that way.

You will need to drain the transmission before removal to limit the amount of fluid spillage. This is done by removing the transmission pan as there is no drain plug. or You can tilt the trans up and be prepared for the fluid to pour out the tailshaft before lifting it out of the frame.

You have quite a project in front of you and you will need a good service manual for reference to guide you thru removal/installation steps. They are generally numbered steps; listing , in order, how it's done guides.

2x IMROTFLMAO

.

 

BDawg,

I got back from a business trip and checked on this thread since my first post. I'm concerned I offended you by my comments on your frame. That was not my intention and I even included the phraseology "I don't mean to sound rude or harsh...".

I pretty much call things as I see 'em. You should realize (if you don't already) the members of this forum run the full spectrum: Some are High School students while others are literally retired senior citizens. Some strive for perfection, whereas for others duct tape and bailing wire are good enough. Some people have nearly unlimited budgets and others are on a shoestring.

So you understand my point of reference, I'm (as Clint Eastwood says) "on the back-nine of life", I try hard to do things to a very high standard of quality and I'd say my pockets are slightly deeper than average.

Though I grew up in northern New England I spent three plus years in Arizona. That experience taught me that there are plenty of rust-free vehicles (and parts) out there.

I would not repair the frame on your truck-I'd get a rust free one. That's not meant to be derogatory, or an insult, or meant to be offensive in the least. It's simply what I'd do... and what I'd recommend.

There are more than a few threads that show (what looks to me like a) seriously rusted cab, bed, etc, and similarly, I wouldn't mess with it. I'd scrap it and find a choice body from the desert southwest. They're out there...

 

hey..your really getting into your project now.. before you put it back together you should replace the trans frt. seal, looking to make sure the torque converter "neck" is good and smooth.. and the t/c is all the way into the front pump and i usually line up the studs centered in the bell housing and do the flex-plate the same.. as far as the strange noise i can not see the trans making that kind of sound..sounds more like the a/c unit being disconnected or something but hard to tell with out being there.. the engine stand should hild it up ok if you take off all accessories.. it is easier in my opinion to reinstall engine bare anyway and put the accessories on after installing engine

 

i was just thinking..could that sound of been from the brake booster?..i could not tell in the picture if you had the vacuum line from rear of engine disconnected before you pulled the engine..and yes the spare parts do look like a previous starter problem..i can even see the snap-ring from the shaft, and the bearings from the over-running clutch in the starter drive

 

RC I want you up at my place when I when put the eng in Penny's rock rig, one has a trans and one doesn't, not to sure which eng I using yet?

His truck is a non a/c BTW, but good suggestion on the noise.

 

Blackfoot BB - Don't be sweating it. Really. I know how the FTE community is. Everyone looking out for one another. I don’t meant to bring up a "sour" issue, but I was around when many members started sending their hard earned $$$ to a member that said he had fallen on hard times. (Turns out maybe he wasn’t, and that was a fiasco) but none the less, FTE was there!!! Also, many members coming here commenting how they don’t get “bashed” on this forum like they do on many others……

I actually wanted to show you all a picture of the torque converter "neck" (shaft) when I pulled it out it seemed like it was worn out in a 2" section. I'll get a pic later.

As far as the noise....I'm pretty much calling it the fluid spillling down, and until I can come up with anything else, not worrrying about it too much.

 

If you are in the starting process, I just picked up a super nice frame for my 74 in Charlton MA. He happened to have a 77-79 frame there too in really good shape. I paid 250 for mine and that came with the rear end also. I guess the width is a little different from the 73-76 to the 77-79. Also if you want you can have my old frame once I do the swap. If you are interested in either I will get phone numbers to you.

Good luck with a great truck in a really nice barn.

 

Snowmobile02067 I tried to PM you but it said you have chosen not to receive them. Set that up so I can get in contact with you.

To EVERYONE else....I'm back!!!! Gettin' ready to continue on as we start the new year!!!

 

Found a galvanizing place about 5 miles from my house. SWEET, do you know how much it should cost.

 

Welcome back to the grind, hope Christmas brought you a bunch of new parts from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard ect.....

What next on the agenda? Since I am away from my whole sig line up working in PA, I'm ready to help. I did get to spend a week over x-mas home and drove the 71 bronco and the 78 Ford.

 

I will work on setting that up tonight. I took the cab off of mine today. Going to pull it outside and set my 2 framerails side by side and start building. When I get it built enough, some sand and some paint and we are off. Good luck

 

Jon, based on a verbal only (they didn’t actually see the frame or all bolt on parts) they thought around $800-$1000. Did you look into it further and get a cost?

The colder temps have kept me from getting going on it further. My shop heater needs a new igniter and motor, which I finally got around to ordering. Temps are pretty mild now so I may poke away at it over the weekend.

QUESTION:
Before I tear into the motor, how is it that I will tell what the timing setup is on it? I simply want to know if it is the factory set "smog" timing or the improved "straight up" timing. Is there a way to tell from the components, or did this need to be checked with a timing gun and the engine running before I pulled it? Since you have to change the timing chain, I would assume this maybe a viewing of the components type thing?