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I tightened my valve covers up about 8 months ago. So yesterday I was inspecting the engine again and noticed some were only finger tight...So i tightened them again. (not using a torque wrench) as I do not have one. I did not tighten them hard just snug. Well the covers weren't really leaking then but now they are. I bought a set of rubber gaskets and some ultra blue rtv sealant. I know I have to get a torque wrench to replace but are there any special considerations to putting them on?? use sealant and gaskets or just gaskets..rubber or cork?? Oh I wanted to put on a nice set of billet aluminum set on later but I thought about painting these for the time being. Do I need to use primer and then high temp paint??
You can rent a torque wrench from O'Reillys or Autozone if you dont want to buy one. I'm sure there is also a proper sequence to tighten them down as well. I have always just went from side to side and snugged them up good.
I prefer to use high temp engine primer and high temp engine enamel - Plastikote, Duplicolor, or Rustoleum Dark Ford Blue.
Valve cover gaskets - I use rubber ones and RTV (Permatex high temp orangish/reddish)Lay a thin bead on the valve cover flange and a very thin bead around the bolt holes. Let it out-gas for about 10 minutes and then apply the gasket. Let it cure and then reinstall on a clean and dry head flange (I use acetone and a rag) - no RTV between the head and gasket.
Tighten down the bolts with washers to spread the load to the degree it does not bend the valve cover nor crush the gasket. Before all this I hope time is taken to hammer and dolly the valve cover flanges to be flat.
I'm sorry HIO will you clarify?? "Let it out-gas for about 10 minutes" Could I use brake parts cleaner for the valve covers?? Or do I need to use acetone??
I'm sorry HIO will you clarify?? "Let it out-gas for about 10 minutes" Could I use brake parts cleaner for the valve covers?? Or do I need to use acetone??
Out-gas means to let it sit in free air to release and let some of the chemicals evaporate. Instead of runny, it'll skin over a bit like toothpaste in the sun. I hope that make sense.
Brake cleaner is OK too. Spray it on a rag and they rub the steel clean. I like acetone because I have a gallon of it and it removed everything... doesn't dry as fast as brake cleaner but that's a good thing.
btw that oem blue paint on the valve covers is a bear to get off, been sanding,scraping,spraing aircraft paint remover on them,put them in the dish washer,still at it
I have the same problem so I was going to what HIO said plus use some thread locker ......good idea?
Did the factory use threadlocker? No. Do not use threadlocker.
Remember to go back after a few heat cycles and snug down the bolts until the gasket achieves its "crush".
The factory paint is tuff stuff. Aircraft paint stripper and a blue Roloc disc did the trick for me. I ran into other problems so I have a completely refurbished set of valve covers sitting on a shelf.
mark a. ...I would use studs and nuts if I had aluminum heads. Otherwise, bolts are fine.
So I know I SHOULD use a torque wrench...but with new gaskets...is snug good enough?? HIO did say to go back and snug them after a couple cycles...
Should be, just tighten in stages, do one, then go to the next one across from it until you get them snug, then go back and snug them all up good, like you would tighten lugnuts, just dont tighten to the point where you deform the gasket.
The real cause is the gaskets is becoming compressed, and you are bending the valve covers the more you tighten them. The real fix, is buy gaskets with compression rings built into the gasket to keep this from happening.